Frank Angerano

I don't think you would have to change the studs. As long as the bolt pattern is correct and they are long enough then why change them ?

Good stuff brother. Keep em coming.

So if you look at the diagram it shows two brown wires heading to the neutral safety switch. You have to locate them and see that they are plugged into the neutral safety switch switch. If so unplug it and add a ground jumper from the frame to the brown wire on the harness side. See if the starter works. Also on a side note the relay by the battery, the starter relay. It has two large wires bolted to it. One from the battery and the other goes to the starter. Jump the two wires/nuts together for a second and see if the starter cranks. Make sure the atv is in neutral. It will spark a bit so don't be nervous and don't do it for long periods. Post a few pics of the wires etc.

Thats sole good work. Glad it all worked out, ride safe!

Yep they are great bikes, cant believe i sent that to you lol and my friend said hey you never got back to me on my bayou! I thought he was crazy!! Anyway, give me some time, i will print it and highlight some wiring to make it easier for you.

Im a complete idiot!!! I apologize, but for some reason i thought we were talking about a bayou. I was working on a bayou and somehow responded to the wrong topic. Yours is a bear tracker!! I had one, it was my first atv that i picked ip a few years back before getting back into all this. Here is a diagram showing your neutral safety switch. if the green wire that connects to the switch is broken off and is coming from the harness side try to ground to the frame and see if you get dash lights and if the starter works. Make sure the atv is in neutral!!

Aftermarket CDI's i have never had any luck with. NOT ONE! They do weird things to the atv. Lights, come on, blown fuses etc. I put an oem used or new (expensive) in place and all good. It seems to be the most expensive parts that cost the most but work the best. 🤷🏻‍♂️

There should be a light Green and Red wire coming from the left side of the engine right above the shifter. That green wire goes to the round aluminum relay under the seat by the battery. Relay should be round, aluminum and have 4 wires coming from it. Two black one green and one brown. The brown is 12v positive. The green is a negative that is made when the bike is in neutral. That negative is made be the shifter inside the engine cover touching an electrical contact within the engine when shifted. When this happens the brown 12v+ going to the relay and the green negative send power to the relay and the relay closes making the two black wires on the relay connect. This allows the start button to work because the atv knows its in neutral. The red wire goes from the neutral safety switch to the light on the dashboard to indicate its in reverse.

Welcome to Quadcrazy!!! Have you checked the fuel flow from the tank?? All this could be caused by fuel flow. Make sure your petcock is clear and flowing and its not dirty or bad gas. We have seen and heard this many times before. Second Is if you have properly cleaned the carburetor did you set the air/fuel screw correctly? If all of this is right my guess would be a spark issue. If your handy with a tester we can help you along to test the stator, trigger/pick ip coil and all other electrical parts and maybe determine whats going on. Its not hard to do and all you need is an electrical meter/tester to get started.

There has to be a button someplace within that cluster on his dash. Maybe a small hole to put a paper clip in to reset.

Any luck ?

Are there any kind of buttons on the dash??

Here we see a ton of the bayou 220 models for sale. The 300 and 400 4x4 models are harder to find. I am always a fan of fixing em up but the 220 bayous are getting old for me i guess.

Mark is spot on. #1 neutral safety switch is acting up. May be a mechanical issue where the shift linkage is located under the side case that makes contact for the neutral light/relay to lock out or a wiring issue right above it. #2 the starter relay has a fuse on the side of it under a rubber cap. If your not familiar with this relay its the one with the two bigger wires on it, one comes from the positive terminal on the battery and the other one goes to the starter. Pull the cap and check the fuse. Some models put the fuse within that same area so look all over where the battery is etc.

Even more reason to not start bypassing rev limiters just yet. There are very good rebuild kits for the carbs that have everything inside the package. Start there and get familiar with the carb, jet size and air/fuel setting. Unless the carburetor body has a stripped part ?

The 220 bayous are a dime a dozen. Unless you have the parts for free and the experience to pull the clutch, get the starter bolts out of the cover without damaging the engine cover etc then throw on a brake handle too boot i would say $350 is a fair price negotiable down to $300. Heck you could probably get more money parting it out. Plastics are worth $250 in very good shape, and the racks get you another $60 a piece.

Agreed.

Well done sir, and for $70 bucks !!! I would have done it the hard way as well just so i could inspect the clutch and other areas. Nice work brother.

Hey Shane, welcome to Quadcrazy. Im always looking for new places to ride but also wind up taking road trips. Maybe this link will help. I downloaded the app. https://www.traillink.com/stateactivity/nh-atv-trails/

Sounds like tie rod rod ends to me.

What year is the atv? https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/atv/2007/kfx700-ksv700b7f/front-fender-s https://www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/35063-0067?ref=e81ec24199cb2d89e1f9d6df43c303165a12e87c

Welcome to Quadcrazy. An 86!!!!!! Wow, thats great, good shape? Based on the year and what you have done it I would check the following. 1. Spark quality (maybe a tired ignition coil) 2. Compression (maybe a new piston/rings) 3. Check the intake boot that connects the carburetor to the engine for any cracks. 4. is the starting rotation strong when cranking? 5. And lastly is the choke working properly?

Have you checked the brake caliper? Sometimes if you leave the brake locked while it sits the piston on the caliper gets stuck and wont retract. If its frozen then I would think its a brake thing if it moves a little and jams then i would look more to the differential. Jack the front up and see if you can rotate the drive shaft to that wheel. It should move a hair in each direction. If so then at least you know its probably not in the differential. It could be as simple as a frozen caliper. If not then take the fill cap off of the differential and see what the fluid looks like and see what the gears look like. And welcome to Quadcrazy btw!

Popped in the new stator since i had a little time today and stripped the old gasket remnants off (that never gets old) lol. So i decided to do a thorough inspection on the old one. I pulled the plastic sleeve off of the wires because i felt a lump inside the sleeve and..... someone was in there! Wires were taped under the sleeve and found three but splices. I also found a part of the insulation that was damaged where the retainer strap holds the stator wires in place in the cover. Whoever spliced the wires put a vinyl sleeve over them and it almost looked factory. Anyway new stator is all good and the cover is clean and ready for reinstall. Waiting for parts is the worst! Check the pics.

I agree and think this may be the problem. All i need now is the flywheel. Should have it in my possession by Wednesday. Keep ya posted!