MarkinAR

Speaking as a Canadian, how do you feel about a repop season of Kids in the Hall? Any answer other than "looking forward to it" is wrong. Your thoughts on behalf of Canadistan?

I've always stood behind my work and do so for quite some time. However, for the idiots that need brake pads and then fuss because it's using oil a month later, I'll tell them to piss right off. My favorite was a guy that said he needed wheel bearings on a Polaris, brought bearings and everything. I said you don't need them, the ball joints and tie rods were falling off. He wanted the bearings put in anyway and then fussed because the wheels were still falling off when he picked it up. I took my labor charge and sent him on his way. Said I'd be happy to replace the tie rods and ball joints too, like I said it needed originally. He never brought it back because he was too embarrassed.

My first move is to take the OEM part number and hit Amazon and feebay. sometimes you can get OEM on feebay quite a bit cheaper. Ultimately, it depends on what parts though. Case gaskets I'll buy whatever is cheap, head gasket OEM only. Bearings I use measurements or cross reference and buy at the parts store because you can get good Timken many times as cheap as chinese junk. Rings are OEM ONLY for me, timing chain is always DID. Brake pads I'll buy chinese junk because I've never had an ATV or UTV that didn't kill brake pads in no time anyway so might as well buy the cheap ones.

Savage3 is correct, battery will be somewhere over 12V, under 14.5V, normally. If you measure direct from the stator before the regulator, it could be anywhere from 12V to a crap ton of volts. That's what the regulator is there for, to keep it in the target range. Service manual will have the appropriate voltage output range.

"4 stroke oil" doesn't mean anything. The better question is if the oil is wet clutch approved, JASO or better. Conventional non JASO oil will slip the clutches like crazy. If it's JASO oil, then as mentioned above, it's likely a clutch adjustment issue. or the Primary drum or shoes are shot.

Take the inspection bolt out of the left side of the case so you can see the timing marks on the flywheel. Line the timing mark with the indicator inside that opening. The cam should have dots or some type of mark on them that you line with the head.

If you were to assume that timing could be set when the piston is at the top, it is possible to set timing on the exhaust stroke and not true TDC which is the compression stroke. This, it's 180 out. I've done that years ago. Both valves have to be closed and the piston has to be at the top to be at true TDC.

On a 4 stroke engine the piston gets to TDC twice in a cycle. It may be that the timing was set on the exhaust TDC and not compression TDC. Have to make sure the marks on the cam are correct and make sure both valves are closed at TDC.

Check the timing if valves aren't the problem. Sounds like timing is 180 off.

@Mech Good call, turned out to be injector wires crossed. I helped my oldest rebuild the motor and drop it in and he put it all back together. Woops. The tip was last night when I could smell fuel a bit while cranking it over. In EFI the only possible reason to smell fuel while cranking is no compression or a mismatch in squirt and bang. I knew timing was perfect, that only left fuel and the spray pattern was clean.

Odd issue I'm hoping you fine folks can help diagnose. Recently rebuilt 800XP with new crank, rings, etc. Rod bearing went south so had to replace the crank. Got it back together fine, but only starts at half throttle and doesn't really even want to do that. Checked timing again and dots are perfect, compression 170 on both cylinders, fuel pressure 40ish. Anything I could run down that I'm missing?

Likely a bit of ice in the cable, pretty common. I'd grab a cable lube tool and shove that dude full of cable spray. https://www.amazon.com/GTSpeed-Universal-Motorcycle-Cable-Lubricator/dp/B009T3VUK8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cable+luber&qid=1643733606&sr=8-5

If you don't have a cable lube tool, I'd get one. They are a life saver on older machines. https://www.amazon.com/GTSpeed-Universal-Motorcycle-Cable-Lubricator/dp/B009T3VUK8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cable+luber&qid=1643733606&sr=8-5

Almost any 2 identical machines of any kind behave differently. My father years ago kept a fleet Toyota truck for parts delivery, had probably 30 and they were all identical except for color. Sometimes you'd have one that would light the tires up, one that was slow as a turtle, one that got 30 MPG and one that got 14 MPG.

Interesting, thanks for posting. I've never seen a manuf suggest testing a CDI by ohm load. All of the Honda stuff you can't get a value if the CDI isn't activated so there are no good tests for them. I guess if yours doesn't fall within spec as posted by Suzuki, then I guess we have to assume it is indeed bad.

Wolves play an important part in the ecosystem, but are definitely a risk of animal and human life if there are too many. That one's big enough to carry off a full grown adult.

OEM rings and gaskets. Quick deglaze with a stone hone and you're good to go unless the cylinder is ruined. For a simple rebuild you don't need a "kit".

You can't test a CDI with a multimeter, you need a full CDI test bench for that. If you have ruled out all other reasons for no spark, then it's probably the CDI. Sometimes you can bake them in the oven for 5 minutes at 200 and try and sometimes they'll work for a few minutes. $100 for a good used OEM CDI isn't bad unless you're comparing them to $30 chinese junk.

I'd check the timing. I put a 300 together once and got the timing a tooth off and it had all of the symptoms you mention above.

The difficulty you are going to find is limited selection for the OEM 11's wheels. The easiest move is to find some factory pull offs from a newer rancher, rubicon, etc. Last set I put on a 300 were some TItan 589's on Brute Force 750 wheels since they are the same 4x110 bolt pattern.

I would think that if you got one for another older suzuki that you can find in stock, they should generally work. Just make sure it has the same number of phases. Usually there's 3 or 6 yellow wires plus power and ground. If yours has 3, make sure the one you replace it with has 3. You can still get them for the 250 quadrunner, so that's highly likely to work.

@Matv88 Polaris is notorious for running lean. You're on the right track to adjust the idle fuel screw a bit, it'll be happier for it. Might also bump the needle up a notch for a bit more air at WOT, which would give a bit more fuel. Those things run so lean sometimes the header will glow read. Stupid US emissions crap ruins them.

Puffing air out of the intake is 99% of the time due to timing being off (assuming it's not just lean and backfiring through the intake) and that may indeed be timing chain jumped a couple of teeth. Given that it's fuel injected, I doubt it has a clog, but you could pull the injectors/throttle body anyway and check just to make sure because it's an easy repair. Pulling the head and checking the valve condition is also fairly easy to make sure it hasn't burned an intake valve. It's possible and would be that other 1% of the time where it puffs air out the intake. Looks like it's just going to be a series of diagnostics and working through it. @pikachu78 was kind enough to link the repair manual above. Just grab that and start prodding around, you'll find it sooner or later.

Tao Tao and about a dozen other Chinese brands are really just 80's Honda technology. They copied the patents on stuff as soon as the patent expired. Parts aren't usually interchangeable, but you can see where they just copied an old Honda motor. The are ok, not extremely reliable, but you'd probably get a winter out of it (I say probably because I've seen them crap out in a couple hours and I've seen them last years). The only real probably with them is support. Hard to find parts, hard to find wiring and drivetrain diagrams, etc. Oh, and resale value is complete garbage, one of those a year old here in the south is worth under a grand.

If you can't jump the solenoid then you have some serious issues because that's straight battery to starter with no other electronics involved. However, if it does turn over jumping the solenoid then most like, as you have assumed, it's a blown fuse. As to where the fuses are on that bad boy, I have no idea. There may also be a fuseable link but I don't know where. Did you find the repair manual in downloads yet to start troubleshooting?