MarkinAR

Could be a bit of water in the gas or trash in the throttle body. I'd drain the tank and refill with fresh non ethanol gas and see if that helps. Then move on to cleaning the throttle body. Might also take a look at the plugs, they may just be coincidentally crapping out.

I put a 2x6 about 3 feet long on the bead with one end on the ground and drive my truck up the board like a ramp. Usually pops the bead right off.

Sounds like the o-rings in the MC aren't sealing completely and letting a bit of pressure escape back into the reservoir. Had a MC on a Chevy do that a while back.

Same. I read through new posts all the time out of curiosity.

Will the MC pump fluid out if you just crack a line? If not, then it's probably defective out of the box. Sometimes air pockets are nearly impossible on those little MC's so often times you have to power bleed them with a suction gun.

Coil is nearly always direct ground to the frame. If it's a single wire coil, it's definitely ground to frame.

Timing chain is probably stretched and slapping the case. Folks never replace those and don't until they break and throw the piston into the valves.

Very valid point @MaxPax. I would venture to say that a lot of the division is intentional. As long as there is strife, there has to be a savior. Unfortunately, there are plenty of not so well meaning folks that want to be the savior.

Could be trash on the magneto side of the case, one way bearing on the clutch making noise, might even be something as simple as a heat shield vibrating at a certain frequency generated by RPM. Can you post a video so we can hear it and maybe help diagnose?

Good way to spend time together. Lot of life lessons covered in grease and bloody knuckles.

Welcome to the forum.

Found in a Polaris forum 20-22 ft/lbs. I don't see a service manual either, but honestly tight is good enough. I don't torque head bolts or rocker cover bolts most of the time on older ATV's because of metal fatigue. You can sometimes strip the threads trying to get to factory torque spec.

I hate chasing electrical gremlins. Still leaning towards it being a direct short to ground. Could it be the reg/rect pumping out too much voltage and causing a problem? Without it running that's probably difficult to troubleshoot. I'd really dig into that area where wires were chopped and reconnected and then go from there. You might loosen the harness from the frame and pull it away the best you can to put space between the harness and the frame and then see if that helps. May not, but worth a shot maybe.

It won't fire if it doesn't detect fuel. My guess is a bare spot on the harness rubbing against the frame. It takes a direct short to pop a 20A fuse.

Odd both injectors would have the same code. Each has a separate hot wire but I bet there's a common ground. Id look for a broken ground wire or dirty ground to frame. For that matter, check the negative battery terminal contact.

Vents are normally on the top or towards the top of any case. Not sure where it specifically though. It's pretty unusual to leak water into a vent other than the case where it's used as a submarine so I'd still lean towards pinion or axle seals leaking. Or could even just be condensation if the oil hasn't been changed in years. You'd be surprised how much water gets inside just from condensation.

Blowby in the crank case is a tight valve or leaking ring issue...and doesn't affect idle quality. Now, if valves are too tight and causing blowby, then idle may be affected just because of the tight valves. Also, you're better off to start a new thread than to tack on to an existing unrelated thread.

I have an old 24" 3/8 extension that I use as a long punch and knock the caps out with a BFH. It's crude, but works.

I'd lean more towards the Outlander. They will haul as* and still have fenders to keep you from getting hosed every time you jump off in a mud hole.

Float valve not sealing properly in the float seat. Is it a chinese clone? Those usually have hard rubber and can cause all kinds of issues. Try taking the float valve out and polishing the seat with a q-tip in a drill and a touch of carb cleaner and hopefully it'll seal.

I gave up on Partzilla last year and buy new parts from Babbitt's. I get them in a couple days every time. Can Am parts I usually get from Can Am Guy. Partzilla went to crap due to massive orders during 'Rona builds last year and have never recovered.

You did on the Kodiak so it's possible you have to on the BB.

Glad you're getting it moving forward. Always use an impact to break the clutch nuts BTW. It takes very little hammering from an impact but tons of slow torque with a break over bar. Hardened steel in the threads just behaves that way. You're very likely to break something with a break over bar and rarely likely with an impact taking it apart.

Pretty common for that reverse lockout to grenade and parts disappear. Not sure where the weakness is there but most of them do that. Glad you got it worked out and moving towards repaired.

You're right there, the rebuild kits are non existent. There are still a few new 424s from wide open for the rancher bodies but no rebuild kits.