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Hey guys, thank you for the info and some direction to run through. I really appreciate your time and advice. I will run through your check lists and will let you know what I come up with. Like I said before, it is going to be something stupid, I hope. By the way, I replaced all the electrical in the machine, even the cdi. I will have to check compression. It has 5000+ miles on it. Does the compression go bad at any particular mileage? Anyway, I will let you know what I find and again, thanks guys.

yeah this is the only one I see out there but its a scanned copy http://www.dinlisales.com/docs/Dinli - DL-601, DL-603 Service Manual.pdf There is one for $18 or so at emanuals: https://www.emanualonline.com/Powersports/ATV/Dinli/DL-601/Dinli-Dl_601-DI_603-ATV-Workshop-Service-Repair-Manual.html

@T_bell40 I like to take the bolts out if the airbox so it will push back a bit, helps me get the carb out easier. Waste of time to try to clean without removing IMO

it appears the model Y and K1 represent the years...apparently I'm working on a 2000 atv not 2001 like I thought found an online vin decode page (not automatic)... https://www.suzukiatvforums.com/threads/identifying-your-vin.5662/ my vin comes out to J - japan S - suzuki A - atv A - ATV M - 400-499cc 4 - 4 stroke 2 - design sequence 2 A - design sequence A "123456789ABCDEF...." - this is the 10th design sequence letter of A 0 - check digit y - model year 2000(Y), 2001(1) (or K1) 2 - factory code 107100 - serial number I accidentally bought the correct regulator

we should get together a group and go riding 👍👍

woohoo Update: Test results Ignition Coil resistance primary spec 0.1 - 0.8 actual -> 0.000 ohm secondary spec 10 - 15 kOhms actual 17.x kohms (not quite in spec) cranking volts spec > 140v actual >160+ Pickups and power source coils voltage pickup coil spec > 0.5v actual = blue/green = 6.x+v powersource coil spec >0.7 v actual - yellow/white = 0.5v - 0.6v (not quite in spec) resistance pickup spec 170-250 ohms actual 234 ohms blue/green powersource spec .05 - .5 ohm actual 0.0 - 0.1 ohms white/yellow Stator no load Voltage test (3 yellow wire at voltage regulator) multimeter set to AC and engine running at 5000 rpm pin A to pin b, and pin A to pin C, and pin B to Pin c Spec +60v Actual 69+ volts Diode test... .I screwed that up (just notice the multimeter is supposed to be set to Diode, going to re-test that for confirmation whilst cold and whilst hot) The fact that the manual says to test the No Load Voltage (the three yellow wire connector at voltage regulator) whilst the motor is running and coupler disconnected I knew I could mess with that connector whilst it was running waited 10+ minutes at idle and a bit off idle until I heard the motor missing...disconnected the 3 yellow wire coupler and it instantly got better ....plugged it back in...then a couple minutes it started missing again....and again unplugged the coupler and it got better instantly. THE FIX - I am 99% sure it is the regulator though it is only 2 years old. BTW I HATE how everything is buried...have to remove the gas tank to get to coil?!

Honestly heres my take. If its at the point where you feel its bad and a possibility that the tank my have skunk gas as well then pull the tank and clean the carburetor and tank properly. I've very rarely had luck by rotating and cleaning the carburetor in place. You only wind up pulling it all out again.

I just recently went through a similar problem on my Suzuki Eiger. Turns out it was my flywheel. My magnet configuration was off. The image you posted is called a cdi box. The cdi is what gets and tells the spark/ignition when to fire. The pick up/trigger coil (located by the stator coil) gets its signal from the flywheel which has a small metal tab on it that passes by the pickup/trigger coil. When is passes by the coil sends a signal to the cdi and that cdi delivers spark to the ignition coil. In some instances the cdi fails when the diodes or the small capacitors inside go bad and the electrical current that's meant to flow in one one direction no longer does that and creates a haywire flow of current. If its a capacitor that goes bad inside it usually kills the cdi completely (no spark) when a diode goes bad it allows current to go in either direction and that is where you get the misfire. unfortunately there is no way to test or repair the cdi box and its an expensive part to gamble on. Back to the flywheel, the magnets have a glue that holds them in place. That glue has failed on a run for about 3 or 4 years of the artic cat and Suzuki engines. This allows the magnets to move around and cause havoc on the ignition system. The way to inspect this is to pull the side cover off and inspect the flywheel magnets. Start with the flywheel and go from there. Then inspect the cdi for any moisture or cracks/damage. It should be located in the rear under the plastics by the storage compartment.

took a ride and played with gas cap when it started acting up...don't think it is the cap or lack of gas when it started happening I took the gas cap of and nothing changed I changed the petcock to PRI and RES and nothing happened differently then out of the blue it was fine for a bit, then happened again. The video below shows that it doesn't appear to be the gas cap Could it be the coil? Do you know the ignition system on this thing? What tells the coil to fire? Starting with the stator/magneto wires must be going to the voltage regulator to produce the 14v+ to the battery, as well some wires must be going somewhere to provide 100-200v to something that has capacitors (like a boat's powerpack), then something to trigger that to send the volts to the coil that ups the volts to something like 20-40Kv that goes to plug....right? Again I don't know this machine very well, so no clue what triggers the timing of the spark....I don't think the coil itself would know when to trigger, so a bit in the dark. oooh found the ignition system for the quadmaster...it HAS a powerpack thingy...now where is it? 🙂