Frank Angerano

Happy new year !!!!! Here are a few pics of some of the rides and atv projects we got into. Hoping to double the amount in 2020!!!! I wish everyone a happy and healthy new year.

Brake or carburetor cleaner will work fine. Let us know how it goes.

So ive been messing around with faded plastics for a while and I've even sent them out to a body shop for paint since the person at the body shop added a flex agent to the paint. I thought to myself why cant i just put a flexible clear coat on them? So i decided to give the water sand thing one more try with 1200 grit and it took all the surface dirt and faded white residue away. Thin i hit them with a flexible oil based clear coat spray can that i had my local place order for me after asking her to look for something in that ballpark. I tried a small spot first and then tried to remove it with gas and a few other things including a light psi pressure wash. The results were good enough to try half the rear plastic. I think it worked out great. Im going to do all of them and see how they hold up since the atv is going to someone i know and can keep me up to date. The pics are not in any order except for the very last one. Thats finished product of one side of the rear plastic and you can clearly see the difference. In person it looks and feels great and seems durable.

So I've been on the faded plastic thing for a long time and i finally found a decent solution. Ive been on this bike for about a week and the plastics are faded pretty bad. Im going to add my findings to the faded plastics thread but let me know what you think ?

I hear ya and agree, the best part about this type of situation is all the members that go through this get very good at pulling the carburetor off so making several adjustments gets less difficult.

I hear your point on possibly the flywheel and the trigger coil maybe having a problem. Its possible that the gap is causing a problem and at high rpms its breaking down? Maybe put an inline spark monitor so you can see if its in fact breaking down at the high rpm. If its breaking up at wot it makes me think its the reeds. I know you changed them but maybe the reed retainer plates are not right? Why I'm thinking along these lines is the high rpm problems. During the intake period at high rpms the velocity and intake at the reeds could be problematic causing a fuel delivery problem? Im just throwing some possibilities out there maybe you will stumble onto something.

2-7/8 sounds like a lot but give it a shot and see how it goes.

I would definitely change the jet. Reason i was asking about the oil intake was because if left the oil intake port open you would have some suction drawing air through that port but i know you better then that. Did this problem just start happening?

Hey @06kfx440 merry Christmas brother. On that old oil injection line when you took it out of service did you cap it off ?

@Jacob Dellinger there really isn't much to a pulsar/trigger coil to do a write up, i guess the tester would be a good idea explaining some ohm readings and the differences between the settings. I will see what i can put together. In the meantime if you are having a problem or need some direction/explanation im sure we can help you along brother.

@pablo Blake sorry I didn't see that post about the screw. So that is your air/fuel screw obviously. You will see a lot of threads down there so don't think its buried all the way. Before you touch it what i always do is tighten it to a SNUG position and count the amount of turns that it takes before its snug. Should be in the two maybe two and a half turns in range. Write that down because you will want to set it back at that position later on after the carburetor is cleaned out. Adjusting that screw while the engine is running is quite challenging and takes a custom mini screwdriver and some small hands and patience. There is a method to it as well by listening to the engine run. The manual also tells you how many turns to set the screw at and it should be in the same area of where you found it.

Parallel twins don't fire at the same time. While one piston is on the way up to fire the other is on the way down. They are designed like this so there is a constant velocity power band and produce a lot more torque. Tandem twins have the pistons firing at the same time as the pistons are at the same location on the crank shaft. These are a pain in the as* to dial in since the air/fuel delivery to the cylinders has to be very close because they both fire together.

Seafoam after, clean the piston and maybe find a bottle brush and use the gum out.

Good move on not taking it out yet. Anything else you can deal with, a run away throttle not so easy. Get that right and go from there. That throttle connection screws into the carburetor so check its not broken in the carburetor.

Welcome to Quadcrazy @Ken Lundgren!

Thats black but mostly from a rich Long running condition in my opinion. OR .... bad valve seals/rings but that black of a piston would show a constant blueish smoke from the exhaust. If it were me i would get a can of the gum out carburetor cleaner and spray it in the head and let it sit over night. It will loosen up most of the garbage on the piston. I have a carburetor cleaning kit and it comes with small brushes that you can bend and stick inside the spark plug hole and do a little scrubbing on the piston It helps. When your ready crank the engine without the spark plug and blow it all out of the head. Super important is to make sure the kill switch is off while cranking and if it wont crank with the kill switch then put a rubber glove over the spark plug wire boot and make sure it does not spark against anything! Re inspect and see how it looks. If most of it goes away then the rest will burn off once its dialed in right. I would change the oil as well because the gum out can slip by the rings and get into the oil.

No problem. Proper maintenance will keep that machine running many years. Keep a small log book as well so you remember the dates and what you did etc. This is good for a few reasons one being your own knowledge second is having documentation like that if and when you sell/upgrade to a new machine the new buyer feels good knowing there is a well documented maintenance log on atv he/she is buying.

Honestly i would not touch the front and rear differential at all other then the level of fluid in there. They generally stay clean and last a long time.

Yes. Stick a pice of small wire in there. It should be hollow. If so the you should be able to pop that brass cap out.

Wow thats a lot of parts replaced ! What caused the fire like that ? Ok so first things first. Have you checked for spark? Did you use all oem parts? Have you gone over all the connections?

Looks pretty straight forward. The cables look a little bent over more then usual. Once you pull the carburetor off your going to need two cans of carburetor cleaner spray. I use gum out. Spray the outside down and let it sit for a little bit and then wipe it down good. You can use Q Tips to get in small spots and loosen dirt. I like to put the carburetor in a frisbee or a low tupperwear container to work on. Definitely going to have to look into the cable connection points to see whats happening there. Is it me or does it look a little burnt in the area of the carburetor? No evidence of a fire at all ? It just looks a little dark.

Very good kits. I like them and the Ex caliber kits as well. Both kits are great because they come with the air/fuel screw. Some kits don't have that and its a problem. One other thing i would love to see is new screws for the bowl included in the kits.

That is the area. Should be a flat cap there ? Take a pic of the bottom of the carb stand it up but upside down.

Thanks @shar

Got a hell of a day in. Pulled the front and rear apart, all looked great so i greased it up, new brakes and thats a wrap on the drive train. Blasted the axles, frame etc down to clean metal and any and rust and got several coats of paint on it. Reassembled most of the drive train and shot the racks and front bumper which are hung to dry. Should be getting it all back together soon enough and then a custom seat cover and shes done. A few more pics to come! Zoom in on the pics and see how clean that frame and drive train came out!