JacobSlabach

I agree that if I had an automatic bike and it wasnt moving forwards or backwards, the shifter would be the first place that I would check. (my polaris sportsman shifter link stripped (wouldnt shift out of high), easy fix- at least for a polaris haha)

I would clean the carb first because of what @mikeexplorer said. then try adjusting the idle screw, then the air mixture screw if none else works. Wouldn't hurt to check the valve clearance too..but I would work on the carb first. Does your bike bog down at any time when you push it hard or want to die right after letting off the throttle? If thats the case, I think it would be running too lean- (mixture screw adjustment) oh, and how does it start in cold weather?

any luck? I know I had a friend that has a recon that wouldnt go into reverse- this was because the idle was too high and the clutch was not disengaging at idle.

exactly what happened 3 times on my bayou- fouled sp... but yea, If a bike wont start, I always check these first: gas, fuel valve is on, kill switch is not flipped, choke setting, spark, sp, air intake (for any clogging), compression, carb, then maybe timing, and other stuff... Most of the time, it doesnt go that far haha- it should be one of the above

yep haha vacuum slide. Lol I wouldnt have known that was there until @Frank Angerano said something about it for my kawasaki bayou. And btw, the chinese carb didnt have a adjustable needle--- I had to back the air screw out almost all the way lol. Thats why it was running kinda bad 😅 but yeah, when I got my chinese carb in for the polaris, the needle was set to the richest setting possible.. I moved it to the leanest (highest on the needle) setting it offered, gonna see if that works...

is arctic cat still usa made? And did Textron change that or is textron usa made too? I know for me, I would have said that textron was some chinese junk before I knew that is was pretty much the same as Arctic Cat.

I'm trying to learn some electrical as I dont know DC... I'll be following along 👍👍

I'll buy the bike off you 🤣 haha have you looked at the needle in the carb (frank can help me out as to what its called) In my carb, the needle was on its lowest setting (letting the most fuel through as possible) I havnt got the carb back on the bike yet, but I'm hoping that will help solve my problem. If you take off the top cap on your carb, there should be a spring and below that a needle that you see the top of. If you take the whole rubber suction thingy out, you can get to the needle and adjust the c-clamp.

A double bevel is where the saw will tilt to the side 45* each way as you stand in front of the saw:

I agree that carbs can have an affect on how a bike runs. However, I am running a cheap chinese carb on my bayou that is taking me up to 50+ mph with 0 issues. Starts in any weather (except under 10- then the battery goes dead haha). I found that my aftermarket carb needed the air screw out further than what was called for in the manual.

I will see if I can check the voltage at the boot. How is the best way to do that? Just hook positive of a multimeter to the boot and the other end on the frame?

I'll be following along too. I think since I bypassed my pump, My carb is overflowing and flooding the engine. If I have the af off, the engine turns on and races, If the af is on, it floods out and wont start. Anyway, thats my problem for my thread, I would not have a clue whats wrong with yours. What elevation are you at?

ok guys, first, I need a flex screwdriver to get to that air screw because nothing I got will even touch it... lets just say the bayou's carb is a ton easier to get to. I unhooked the gas pump and ran the line from tank to valve, then to carb. The first crank, it almost wanted to fire, then fall back to the starter speed (had the pod set to rpm, starter makes around 300rpm) it fired once, made it up to maybe 800, then fell back to 300ish with starter. I took the af out and held my hand over the air duct thinking it was starving for gas still. It fired up and within 1/2 second got up to about 3-5000rpm before I hit the kill switch. Does this consistently. lets just say I'm afraid if I let it go, its gonna blow

still say polaris is the best haha

will do first shot bike I come across! 👍

polaris will not let you down (keep in mind there are lemons in every make), arctic cat, or yamaha Ima made in the usa kinda guy so I really like Polaris over anything else 👍

thanks for the input- I bought a new one and the wiring side of this quad is good now as far as I know

I'll be following along on this thread too- curious as Iv'e never had to dig into the crankcase of a bike

*well- nobody has explained to me what I'm looking for when I adjust the carb

ok so I have never heard this before... haha nobody has ever explained to me HOW to adjust a carb on a bike yet. Thanks! Also, how do you adjust the air screw while the carb is on the bike? I have never been able to do that since the screw comes out the bottom of the carb. but thanks! I knew the engine wont run right if the ratio is off, but I did not know that it would affect rpm....just never put 2 and 2 together

new axle is in, new pod is in, everything works good......except the fuel pump. I think @davefrombc is correct about the vacuum line. I think I'm going to bypass it like he suggested (thanks for that suggestion btw!!) I still dont know what tha carb should be adjusted... But first things first... need fuel to the carb haha

ok thanks! Do you think 30w small engine oil would do ok? And if not, why not

Btw, bayou is for officially for sale for $800 first come first serve lol if you read this thread, you know all of it's history as far as I've owned it... massage me privately if interested. I'm thinking the ignition coil is going bad maybe causing a weak spark and that was also causing it to run rich (and after riding the 220, I noticed its a little more sluggish is throwing the power down)

I'll try to get it looked at... focusing on my sportsman and the 220 I'm working on rn

got that 220 I'm 'servicing'.......... well it turned into a guts and oil job.... I cleaned the carb and it wont idle cold, but idles too fast when warm. also misfires and burns rich cold (white smoke out of the exhaust) I'm going to order a new carb since the old one is leaking and beat up (some one was tinkering) I'm wondering about the valve clearance and timing...? Maybe a factor? What should the clearance be on the valves? How should I check the timing on this bike? (this is a mid 90s bayou 220 2x4)