JacobSlabach

yeah I've heard of that and one of my friends does that for his sportsman (his little brother was playing around and melted his pod lol) I would do that, but I would like for it to work because I plan to sell this bike and I spent 300 on a new pod cluster and it doesnt read speed... Its not the cluster though- its the speedo itself- I've checked connections so the only thing I can think of is it just shorted out when I reversed the terminals... If thats the case, I wounder what else shorted out with it that I'm not aware of........like the temp gauge? I know the fan comes on after a little while... kinda concerning.. But I need at least $2000 out of this bike just to cover what i put into it... dunno if I can get that much or not.. so is the clicking sound an issue or is it just adjusting?

I got my sportsman fixed.....so I got one bike I would put on the trail.. I'm trying to sell the bayou soon.. I would really need two reliable bike to go riding because my dad would probably want to come along.

yeah I thought the rear end was just adjusting (it mainly clicked when turning on pavement).. That was my guess on the clutch as well- just showing its age.. The speedo is driving me nuts as I like to brag about how fast I was going haha😴 but yeah overall, this would be the bike of my choice if I was looking for a carbed bike. I'll see if I could take some pics and upload them soon.

I agree👍 Although.... I moved my needle on my sportsman's carb up two notches... problem solved. no more adjustment needed- the bike runs perfect. Its got to be something big that we are just missing to be causing the bike to just not run.... Are you sure its starving for air and not fuel? I mean it seems pretty obvious to me that its air... but I wouldnt just rule out the fuel till you're sure.

found out why the bike was racing. The throttle cable was too short for the cable sleeve. shortened the cable sleeve with the sleeve adjuster (lol dunno what its called). But then the throttle was shorting out the spark inside the handlebar cluster so I just ripped out the wire in the throttle box- dunt know what thats for but now the bike runs flawless. I'm suprised it runs soo well with no carb adjustment (other than I moved the needle leaner two notches) It idles clean, and doesnt flood or bog at all when the engine is cold or hot. My four issues are: 1. The speedo is just reading 0 all the time with the new cluster. 2. the rear end is making a clicking noise when I go around a curve like its trying to lock and cant (I thought sportsmans were all-time locked in the rear) 3. The oil compartment is leaking. I am going to change the fluids soon anyway, but I wanted to fix this while I had the oil out. 4. the trans doesnt engage till half throttle. dont get me wrong, this little girl gets if you floor it, but to 'get', you HAVE to floor it. again, I'm surprised the bike runs soo good with no carb adjustment other than the needle- just still has some hiccups that need straightened out.

hmm could you upload some pics of the bike (like the carb, air box etc?)

dude thats awesome 🤣

haha yeah make sure you are where you wont lose parts. I almost lost the c-clamp off my sportsman carb yesterday....and I was in my workshop lol

had the same thing happen with my kawasaki bayou. Rebuilt the top end and now it ticks... I'm interested to know what the cause is... Also, I have an 04 sportsman 500 that I'm fixing up to sell. If I have a bad idle, I will use your procedure on the valves! Thanks

need to get rid of it cheap- give me a shout😂 I would throw a new coil on it and rule that out.

I agree that if I had an automatic bike and it wasnt moving forwards or backwards, the shifter would be the first place that I would check. (my polaris sportsman shifter link stripped (wouldnt shift out of high), easy fix- at least for a polaris haha)

I would clean the carb first because of what @mikeexplorer said. then try adjusting the idle screw, then the air mixture screw if none else works. Wouldn't hurt to check the valve clearance too..but I would work on the carb first. Does your bike bog down at any time when you push it hard or want to die right after letting off the throttle? If thats the case, I think it would be running too lean- (mixture screw adjustment) oh, and how does it start in cold weather?

any luck? I know I had a friend that has a recon that wouldnt go into reverse- this was because the idle was too high and the clutch was not disengaging at idle.

exactly what happened 3 times on my bayou- fouled sp... but yea, If a bike wont start, I always check these first: gas, fuel valve is on, kill switch is not flipped, choke setting, spark, sp, air intake (for any clogging), compression, carb, then maybe timing, and other stuff... Most of the time, it doesnt go that far haha- it should be one of the above

yep haha vacuum slide. Lol I wouldnt have known that was there until @Frank Angerano said something about it for my kawasaki bayou. And btw, the chinese carb didnt have a adjustable needle--- I had to back the air screw out almost all the way lol. Thats why it was running kinda bad 😅 but yeah, when I got my chinese carb in for the polaris, the needle was set to the richest setting possible.. I moved it to the leanest (highest on the needle) setting it offered, gonna see if that works...

is arctic cat still usa made? And did Textron change that or is textron usa made too? I know for me, I would have said that textron was some chinese junk before I knew that is was pretty much the same as Arctic Cat.

I'm trying to learn some electrical as I dont know DC... I'll be following along 👍👍

I'll buy the bike off you 🤣 haha have you looked at the needle in the carb (frank can help me out as to what its called) In my carb, the needle was on its lowest setting (letting the most fuel through as possible) I havnt got the carb back on the bike yet, but I'm hoping that will help solve my problem. If you take off the top cap on your carb, there should be a spring and below that a needle that you see the top of. If you take the whole rubber suction thingy out, you can get to the needle and adjust the c-clamp.

A double bevel is where the saw will tilt to the side 45* each way as you stand in front of the saw:

I agree that carbs can have an affect on how a bike runs. However, I am running a cheap chinese carb on my bayou that is taking me up to 50+ mph with 0 issues. Starts in any weather (except under 10- then the battery goes dead haha). I found that my aftermarket carb needed the air screw out further than what was called for in the manual.

I will see if I can check the voltage at the boot. How is the best way to do that? Just hook positive of a multimeter to the boot and the other end on the frame?

I'll be following along too. I think since I bypassed my pump, My carb is overflowing and flooding the engine. If I have the af off, the engine turns on and races, If the af is on, it floods out and wont start. Anyway, thats my problem for my thread, I would not have a clue whats wrong with yours. What elevation are you at?

ok guys, first, I need a flex screwdriver to get to that air screw because nothing I got will even touch it... lets just say the bayou's carb is a ton easier to get to. I unhooked the gas pump and ran the line from tank to valve, then to carb. The first crank, it almost wanted to fire, then fall back to the starter speed (had the pod set to rpm, starter makes around 300rpm) it fired once, made it up to maybe 800, then fell back to 300ish with starter. I took the af out and held my hand over the air duct thinking it was starving for gas still. It fired up and within 1/2 second got up to about 3-5000rpm before I hit the kill switch. Does this consistently. lets just say I'm afraid if I let it go, its gonna blow

still say polaris is the best haha

will do first shot bike I come across! 👍