Mech

Depends if you want sport/performance, recreational riding, or work-horse, and the local terrain makes a difference when choosing. I think most of the jap bikes are very reliable.

No Russ, I've never even seen one of those bikes, I don't have the answer you needed but I know flywheel pullers get made and sold by lots of people. You think it's pathetic I/we didn't know or look it up for you, but I think it's pathetic that you came in here expecting it to be handed to you on a plate, and fast pronto too thank you, but then after doing the proper thing and searching for yourself, you came in to slag us off.. That's a pathetic attitude buddy..

Sounds good..

No hurt feelings here either.. I find it strange they Russ'd think it was pathetic.. Strange word to use. Ignorant perhaps, or lazy(since we didn't do the homework for him), or disinterested.. Fair enough.. But pathetic..haha.. No !

I have a manual for a texron tracker.. I couldn't figure if the tracker mentioned was a model or make though. And also as far as I know texron are made in USA.. But perhaps not. I also have some other EV manuals that are primarily golf carts, but they do get used for utility vehicles.. And then finally, is it the manual or the control unit you are really after ? Manuals are often hard to find, but the part should be easier to at least get a part number for.. If you find a site that has parts listings let me know and I'll compare my manuals with what's shown in the part site and we might find I have something that would do you.. And, does your buggy use 36v or 72volts ?

haha.. Yeah we're all pitiful though.. But you're here now, so everyone will get an answer to every question now huh ? You're the Man !

You can test the internal workings of an aftermarket switch with a multimeter. Use the continuity buzzer to figure which wires are connected by which switch/button. Then use that knowledge to match the new switch up to the wiring diagram's switch schematic.. That's the box diagram of each switch showing what's contacted by bars when it's on or off. If you do dismantle a switch be very careful not to loose the tiny springs or balls from inside it.

Yup. Adjust the idle as I suggest then try riding it. If it still stumbles at about 1/4 throttle then try lowering the slide needle one notch. I think lowering it will be what's needed, but if I'm wrong it will hopefully make a change to show that is the part needing work.. If lowering the needle does make it worse then we will try raising it by two notches. Which ever way you move it to improve things, try moving the needle one more notch in the same direction until it starts performing badly again and then go back a notch.. The idea being to check the slide needle can go too rich and too lean, and finding the best spot.

Does that vehicle have a model number ? I have some EV manuals, one of which seems likely to be for that vehicle, but I think there are several makes and models all using the same or similar running gear and frames.

Best to start a new thread Manny.. And tell us more about the bike, history, condition etc..

And.. All that advice and recommendations are based on the assumption that you've already had the carb apart and cleaned it thoroughly, with every brass jet out, and all the drillings blown out.. Also, you are sure the breather hoses on the carb and the fuel tank are on correctly and clear.. A blocked carb breather can make them flood badly..

Ok, and this is the original carb, the one that had been on it and operating ok until now right ? I think there's two things you need to do.. They might not cure the problem but they will give us some clues about what's going on. First off it's important to adjust the idle mixture with the throttle wound off as far as possible. If you look under the butterfly there are two tiny holes where the idle mixture gets discharged, one on each side of the butterfly when it's closed. At idle the hole near the air-filter end allows air in to chamber connecting the two holes and that air dilutes the fuel/air mixture which you are adjusting with the idle mixture screw. Once you have the mixture set right with that extra air coming in, and then start to open the throttle, the hole that had been letting air in starts to discharge the relatively rich mixture that the mixture control screw is supplying. The effect is that the mixture goes from optimum to slightly rich because the hole that was diluting the mixture is now discharging fuel/air mix instead. That has an effect similar to a accelerator pump on other carbs. If you wind the throttle opening up and adjust the mixture then you end up trying to dilute all of the fuel coming out of the two holes with the mixture screw, which doesn't really work so good(you get badly atomised fuel), and then when you start to open the throttle the mixture goes lean instead of the desired richer. So I think you should do that first. Wind the throttle back as far as possible so it just idles, then try adjusting the mixture. If it speeds up, back the throttle off again and repeat.. Keep repeating until it starts responding to the mixture screw as it should, and it idles steadily at a low speed, and then, once the idle mixture is right at the very low throttle setting, adjust the idle speed screw so it idles at the recommended revs. Try it like that and then if it's not reving as it should I think you should try lowering the slide needle by one notch. That's an easy job on most bikes. There's no reason why a slide needle should need changing during the normal course of events, but they can get misadjusted if people have had them apart, and the slide needle starts to control the mixture at about 1/4 throttle, so the symptom fits it needing adjusting. While you have the slide out check the diaphragm carefully for splits. You need to flex it carefully to find splits sometimes.

I don't think the ignition timing will be adjustable. So you have tried adjusting the idle mixture screw ? I mean, the screw goes in and out right ? And so, when you did try it, did it start effecting the mixture if you wound the screw out(rich) and in(lean).. In other words can the idle mixture be adjusted both too rich and too lean ? Or does it just stay too rich and can't be leaned, or too lean and can't be enriched ? And... Tell us more about how the bike behaves when it's cold, how it drives then, and also warmed up and how it drives then. Try to figure how much throttle it takes to get it to misbehave, and whether perhaps you can coax it past the bad spot by carefully working the throttle.. Load, revs, throttle opening position and speed of opening all are relevant. A good test if you can manage it is to go up a long slope/hill and then back down again, trying both runs at varying throttle settings and using different gears so you detect if it's the revs or the load that's making it misbehave..

I looked in two manuals and they bopth say 17mm +- 2mm, measured with the carb body tilted so the float is just shutting the jet off(check by blowing into the fuel fitting), and measured from the body to the highest point on the float. You can also check the fuel height with a clear plastic hose attached to the drain fitting on the bottom of the bowl. You open the drain and hold the hose up alongside the carb body and the hose fills to the level of the fuel. The fuel level should be 0.5 +- 1mm ABOVE the carb body to bowl join.

The service manual is in the manuals download section here in quadcrazy..

Ha.. That could do it alright.. So now the two black wires allow the start button to work you just need to figure why the neutral circuit isn't doing what it should. The power must be getting through the switches for it to be powering the start solenoid, so either the neutral switch or wire is crook. I'd disconnect the neutral switch and short the bike's switch wire to earth as my next test.

The nearest thing to a service manual for that bike is the owners manual. That has a picture of the wiring loom, with all the plugs shown, and what they fit onto I think. You'll have to look at every plug and try to spot the colour wire you are trying to trace, and then hope that the other plug with the same coloured wire is the one you are looking for and hoping to test/trace.. I'd use a test light and start tracing the earth and then the power to the key switch.. via fuses etc no doubt.. Good luck.

I generally warm bikes up and the fuel evaporates real quick.. I don't ride them but just let them sit with the idle a little high.. The type of bearings they have don't require pressure but flow, and the thinned oil doesn't do any harm in a short time of running.. Depends how full of oil they are though of course.. haha.. If the level's so high it will be a problem in itself (crank dipping into the oil and splashing/turning it to a mist), then I drain it..And change it.

This should be the wiring diagram for the start circuit.. And there is the full wiring diagram as well.. Hope that helps.. I'd start by jumping the two black wires together at the start isolate relay, and then trying the start button. If that works, then the problem is in the neutral light circuit.. bad connection or broken wire somewhere. Wires mostly break where they get crimped into the metal terminal, and it can be detected by the way the insulation bends too easily. Handlebar switches also are not well protected and do get dirty contacts.. Bayou220Start.pdf output.pdf

You may have too much compression leaking past the rings, pressurising the crankcases..

You should check the tank and the carb breather hoses are attached correctly, and clear. If they are in order then I think you need to take the carb off and clean the float needle seat and carb drillings.

Yup. What Gw said, and check the resistances right at the cdi also to make sure the wires are intact. Check them down at the engine then again at the cdi and compare the figures..

You almost certainly have too much fuel pressure. I'd try to keep the original gear.. The fuel pump and the carb were made to operate together. Gravity fed carbs have bigger float needle jets than carbs with pumps. You should set the carb float to specs if it's a carb recommended for that bike (bikes with tilted carbs have different float settings than flat mounted carbs), or to a setting that will have the fuel at the right height if it is tilted, and then try running it with a temporary gravity feed.

Good news.. Have fun on it..

Thanks for the update.. Glad you got it sorted. Happy motoring, have fun (but don't get caught).