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Polaris 500 sportsman give it gas stalls


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Why is because Ricky stators are well built. They make stators that are equivalent to oem stators.  You get what you pay for however I have used Caltric and have had luck.  Plugged right in and worked great.  Never used or ordered one for a 500 like yours but I did use one on my old Polaris Phoenix and worked without any issues.   

I believe you 100% when you say you know what your doing when it comes to doing this work. We always get that one problem child that will drive you bat sh** crazy!! So see this pain in the as* through and move it along. 

Keep us posted please and @JacobSlabach you also through me for a loop with that color thing ??? 

 

 

 

 

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Is the sportsman same as magnum I was just going through all the plastics guy I bought it from said it was a sportsman so I never checked but plastic says magnum 500 everything I have bought has been for a sportsman I hope the the same anyone have a 99 magnum 500 manual by chance 

That's on the board of dumbass rookie mistakes holy cow 

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can you post a pic of the rear end of your bike?  What year/model did the seller say it was?  so yea that makes sense- i have seen that color in the magnums, not sportsmans.  i believe the main difference between the two is the sportsmans are shaft driven and have rear independent suspension (for smoother, better performance)

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On 8/25/2019 at 10:07 PM, Frank Angerano said:

Lol no need to thank us! That’s what we’re here for !! Wiring is one of my strong points so any clarification you need feel free to ask. Nice work  so far and keeping your cool, this thread may beat the one me and @JacobSlabach had on his bayou 400.  That was a long one I’m going to have to go back and look! 

Keep us posted.   

FYI you can have Quadcrazy on your smartphone. 

the 400s are good, i had a 300 that screwed me :biglaugh::wacko::aargh:

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  • 2 weeks later...

So new stator pickup coil cdi box and voltage regulator its having a horrible time trying to start and when it does runs for about 1 min at idle then dies takes like 30 cranks just for it to start about to check valve flash and double check the timing I have timing right now set on the upside down t and cam with cam notch pointed straight up to cam center any ideas

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It wont stay running long enough idles for about a minute then it goes to stall right before it dies completely the last second it like hits a compression stroke and literally sounds like it does throw it backwards just looks like a super weak spark before it was almost all blue now it's all light yellow pickup coil doesn't have adjustment for it so I was wondering if I turn stator plate just a hair will that adjust pick up coil and I'm pretty positive timing supposed to be on that upside down t right cause theres also 3 hash marks in there but when goes to turn over it's super hard to turn over but once it just gets past that compression then it takes off and goes 

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Here’s what Old Polaris Tech said about the cam timing. The T indicates TDC and the three hash marks you see are for checking timing with a timing light when running.

anyways:

Welcome ! You say you have the cam timing figured out,but just in case: The lower cam sprocket gear should have the dot lined up with the mark at the bottom of the case(this is tdc on the piston),the upper cam sprocket should have the index pin pointing straight up. IF you place the single plated link on the chain bottom dot,the two plated links should line up on the two dots on the upper sprocket. It's NOT really necessary to do this with the chain,the most important thing is to keep the bottom mark lined up and the index pin on the cam pointing straight up dead center of the head. The tensioner must be removed and collapsed and once the cam timing is set install the tensioner body,then the tensioner spring and cap nut to take up chain slack. The stator plate should have one mark that lines up with the mark at the top on the engine case itself,UNLESS someone has been making addition marks tinkering with the timing. Plus look at the "Sticky" thread about viewable pdf manuals and the pictures on timing of the cam and stator should help. The holes on the flywheel are "balancing" holes,just to keep the flywheel running true and no heavy areas to cause vibration.Also on the flywheel edge is an etched "T" for tdc while viewing through the inspection hole of the recoil. OPT

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Is the plug gap correct? Obviously what your  looking for is a blue spark but the gap could be off and the secondary coil could be weak. 

I would go with checking the gap first and maybe an adjustment on the air fuel screw.  @BuggyMasters has a good point with the choke. I did it myself last week, but I was able to notice a black smoke coming from the exhaust and went back to double check and sure as sh** the choke slide was not properly installed, I backed it out and reset it and problem solved.  I also installed two jets in the wrong spots and could not get past 1/4 throttle, this all because I was moving along to quickly.  Took a step back and a breather (beer) lol and came back and noticed right away what I did wrong. 

@BuggyMasters your a big help brother, keep up the good work on helping out.  

@Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones This one is going to go down as the PITA award for 2019 on atv’s. Stick with it and it will get back to good. 

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It's hard as heck to start turns over turns over then starts idles good for 30 sec then dies like once the gas is out of the bowl its dies but didn't do that with last electric idled perfect only died when you gave it fuel I'm so frustrated its unreal really thought it was gonna start run great and would be riding it by now

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