Frank Angerano

Hey @Meg Sam welcome to Quadcrazy. I don't think that atv has reverse. Here is a website that may have what your looking for. https://www.ud-spareparts.com/Spare-parts-ATV-Bashan-Bashan-Parts-ATV-250cc-BS250S11-c-1535_564.html

Good way to distance yourself!! Ride safe.

The regulator can cause these symptoms and easy enough to test or cheap enough to replace. The magnets have been known to move on the flywheels the only reason I'm agreeing with you about it NOT being your problem is the fact that you state it runs fine until hot. In my case it would run like sh** right out of the gate. Your pick up coil could also be the problem when hot. Get your tester and check the spec book on it. Then go ahead and test the coil when its cold and then when the engine gets hot or starts to act up to see if the numbers are the same.

Agreed!

I just recently went through a similar problem on my Suzuki Eiger. Turns out it was my flywheel. My magnet configuration was off. The image you posted is called a cdi box. The cdi is what gets and tells the spark/ignition when to fire. The pick up/trigger coil (located by the stator coil) gets its signal from the flywheel which has a small metal tab on it that passes by the pickup/trigger coil. When is passes by the coil sends a signal to the cdi and that cdi delivers spark to the ignition coil. In some instances the cdi fails when the diodes or the small capacitors inside go bad and the electrical current that's meant to flow in one one direction no longer does that and creates a haywire flow of current. If its a capacitor that goes bad inside it usually kills the cdi completely (no spark) when a diode goes bad it allows current to go in either direction and that is where you get the misfire. unfortunately there is no way to test or repair the cdi box and its an expensive part to gamble on. Back to the flywheel, the magnets have a glue that holds them in place. That glue has failed on a run for about 3 or 4 years of the artic cat and Suzuki engines. This allows the magnets to move around and cause havoc on the ignition system. The way to inspect this is to pull the side cover off and inspect the flywheel magnets. Start with the flywheel and go from there. Then inspect the cdi for any moisture or cracks/damage. It should be located in the rear under the plastics by the storage compartment.

That's a good question! Ive personally never seen much with regard to upgrades on the China atvs other then improved ignition coils, cdi boxes, colored chains and graphics.

Very cool. Its nice to see a utv point of view for a change.

Its all private plus some of my neighbors which is all clear to ride. Also do a little antler hunting.

Good for you and great pics. Im out of here this weekend! Need to ride or im going to lose my sh**!

Nope honestly i look on eBay for a used oem if its in good condition

Ive honestly not seen anything better then an oem cdi. Aftermarket ones are garbage unless its a performance one and thats double the cost of an oem.

Nice work brother! Ride safe.

No i was thinking more along the lines of seeing if any small pieces of gears ⚙️ Come out or any burnt smell etc.

I love it! You can buy some fabric and cover that seat, its easy. But it looks great.

It could be the belt, i would drop the oil first and see what the color, smell and if any metal pieces are in there. Then check the belt and see what it looks like.

Have you checked the linkage underneath to see if its hitting something? Or is the shifter moving just no action ?

Your very welcome. There is a topic on cleaning carburetors that's helpful. Be sure to post a few pics of the progress. I like seeing old bikes that have been sitting around being brought back to life.

Quick question, have you checked the fuel pump to see if the diaphragm is ok and not broken to see that fuel is not back flowing into the carburetor causing a rich condition?

Nice looking bike!

Agreed with @MarkinAR as far as the harness but i always go oem used. Go through the steps i mentioned and see what happens first.

250ex is a good machine. Great idea.

Cool pics. I have had all of them except the CF Motos. Currently have two Ranchers to use now (mine and my son's) that are going through a few upgrades.

Hey ez. So i want to back up for a minute and ask a few questions. 1. Did you change all the parts at the same time or was it process of elimination ? 2. Did you use oem parts specifically the ignition switch? 3. Have you tried to pull the main ground off of the frame, cleaned and reinstalled? 4. Have you tried to apply voltage directly to the starter to make sure your cranking problem is not the starter or the starter clutch? 5. Have you checked your kill switch for continuity with a tester to make sure its closing and opening? It sounds like an aftermarket ignition switch to me but i could be wrong. Are you handy with an electrical tester?

Thanks @Travis Pal, this was a real challenge finding the gremlin. I however will not get to enjoy this one. Once its all back together it will go to its new owner in Connecticut!

Have you checked for spark now that its not running? I would check/inspect the stator wires going directly into the engine. I've seen instances where wires at the entry point on the engine lose there insulation and short out against the engine housing. Wiggle the wires as you crank the engine and see what happens. In addition to that the fact that you wiggled wires and it ran great tells me there's a short exposed someplace. Could be wires rubbing against the frame sie to rubbing, OR ... maybe a wet cdi that has dried out and got wet again. Take the cdi off of the bike and put it in the oven on 200 deg for 10 minutes and put it back on and try that. Sounds crazy but it works.