Frank Angerano

1) the float height: my manual says 13mm - i'm pretty close to this using calipers and following angle of float bowl body (I hope so, anyway) A) I always like to base my float level at 3/4 way up its starts to close off the duel be sure to read the carburetor cleaning write up as it explains exactly how i do it. 2) the needle groove notches - I THINK mine was set on 3rd or 4th groove - I don't remember - any idea the factory setting? I figure the 3rd groove would be safe A) I think the third notch up is the proper position for that clip but always refer to the manual to be sure. If you have trouble finding it let me know. 3) I think I've read before where it's 2 5/8 turns out (on the air/fuel mixture screw (if that's the right piece) - is this right? A) 2-1/4 turns out from a snug tight position is where i start at. Then once the engine is running and warmed up i lower the idle screw as low as i can without the engine shutting down. Then turn the air fuel mixture screw out and see if the engine starts to rev higher, if so great if not go back the opposite way. What you are looking to hear and achieve is to get that engine to rev to its highest point while adjusting that screw. That is the point where your air and fuel are mixing perfect. After that set the idle to a happy place around 800 to 1000 rpm. Not a high rev. 4) people talk of "too rich" or "too lean" - what the world does this mean? i'd like my quad to idle a bit revved up - that's just me - and I think I can adjust this on a piece on the side of the carb (took it off while cleaning carb - the end of it abuts the piece that opens the main valve - turn it one way, valve opens, turn it opposite way, valve closes) A) The term rich or lean are as follows. RICH is where the fuel mixture is is to high this means too much fuel is getting into the engine. LEAN is where the fuel getting to the engine is not quiet enough and its more air intake. This is all decided by the air/fuel mixture screw mentioned above unless there is a faulty condition/restriction etc. If you want your engine to rev higher thats an idle screw adjustment on the carburetor. But be aware a higher rev is not good, it will make the atv jump when you go into gear and its bad for the gears. 5) after I install the carb, how will I tell if it's running optimally? remember, I've not owned a quad before - this is all new to me. A) based on everything above and the said adjustments the engine should be at its optimal running point. A good way to determine this is after the engine is all adjusted and appears to be running good i like to pull the spark plug out and check the color of the plug, it should be a very light tanish color as well as take it for a good rip and see how it responds. 6) last thing: how long to hose lines last? my quad is a 1999 (300 LTF). i'm worried about crap or build up on the inside of the lines. would I be wise to replace all the lines going to the carb? I figure I could find hose online - like a 50 foot role of it - for cheap. does 0.5cm ID and 1cm OD sound about right? A) hoses to tend to break down after a long period of time especially from the inside and particles can wind up showing up in the carburetor so if your already in the area working then yes by all means change the hose. Hope this clears some things up.

I would definitely go with and all terrain tire. I use them on my hunting quad because i go through so many different types of ground including flat ground. As @06kfx440 said a mud tire on smooth ground makes for a bumpy ride. Ebay has a ton of all terrain tires.

No problem.

Sounds like a good deal so far. Especially 4x4! Good stuff, be sure to keep us posted.

Welcome to Quadcrazy @Scott Sirr Good luck with the new quad!

I guess thats a good start on the ball joints. Is there any play at all with the wheel off the ground ? The A frames look ok they match ? Reason I'm asking is maybe the previous owner wrecked it, bent it and put the wrong A frame on the atv?

Probably your best bet to tear it down. Got nothing to lose at this point. Keep is posted and throw up some pics if you can.

Glad to hear that the heat worked on the castle nut, sorry to hear your feeling like sh** again! Not worth relapsing, one thing I've learned is when your body talks you should listen! Take a breather and rest up the bike will still be there when your back up to par.

Just a stupid pointer. Spray the area of where the head gasket is with windex or a soapy solution, make sure the spark plug is in and crank the engine to see if your head gaskets are ok and your not getting bubbles.

Thats good news. Keep us posted.

This is true but i love aimlessly walking around walmart picking out things i have no need for! Oh by the way i made my first in store trip to Harbor freight!!!! The amount of sh** you can walk out of there with for $100 bucks!!!!!

All valid points. I didn't really score anything good except for two tree stands that were $124 for $80 bucks each that's about it, i was hoping to get a deal on an electric pressure washer but I haven't given up hope just yet.

How many of you feel that black Friday is a dying thing ? I have been to a few stores on black Friday last year and this year and it seems busy but nothing like it was. Im able to move around with ease maybe two or three things i wanted were gone but that's it. I used to see the evening news of people sleeping outside stores prior to Black Friday or stampedes and people fighting . I also think that online shopping has a lot to do with this as well ie amazon etc? Maybe it just me but i wanted to hear anyone else's thoughts on this.

Hey @Bronson Weddle welcome to Quadcrazy. I know that bike well. So it sounds like someone hacked the sh** out of the harness. The cdi and parts that you ordered are they oem? The stator can be aftermarket but the cdi should be an oem. The plugs that are cut off were you able to correct that ? The new cdi needs plugs so how did the previous owner splice it in and also the same question for the stator ? Its hard to say if anything you did was wrong or not because the harness was so beat up. I will take a look and see what i can find in my old diagrams to help you along but i would take the path of trying to get it back to the original state with the wiring and i mean locating new plugs etc. Does it look like the stator is original? If so you can do some quick testing to see if its good.

Thats some lean. I feel like something you did during the lift was not done correctly or a set of bushings on the top swing arm are crushed. My approach would be to pull the front wheels off and take measurements from the bolt holes that hold the swing arms in place to the edge of the hub and compare the numbers. If your sure this was not a problem before the lift and nothings bent then its a matter of back tracking and making sure you did not mix up the lift brackets. There are two for the front and one for the back on the single suspension rear swing arm type atvs. Is it possible that you mixed anything up ? lastly some frames have two holes for the upper shock mount on the front shocks. Are they both in the same spots ?

Spray the sh** out of it with penetration oil in the meantime so it can soak.

All you need to do is take the light green wire coming out of the engine on the left side and unplug it. Put a jumper from the frame (ground) to the light green wire on the harness side. Make sure the bike is in neutral and turn the key on. I bet the bike dash lights will come on and crank.

That is your start circuit relay. Should have two black wires, one brown and one light green. The brown should have 12v power with the key on. The light green wire is ground and comes from the lower left side of the motor where the shifter is. Light green and red wires go into the engine. They go to your neutral safety switch. The lever inside when in neutral grounds the light green wire so the relay now gets positive from the brown and negative (ground) from the neutral safety switch. Once the relay has power it connects the two black wires on the relay allowing the start button to work.

Could be but mine had the external for pull start purposes and the internal for electric start If i remember correct but i could be wrong.

Round aluminum and in a black rubber boot?

Im surprised that the nut is so tight. It should be normal tighten threaded. Have you double checked that there is not a piece of the cotter pin stuck in the hole also a little heat works well but be sure to put a cold rag over the hub to keep everything else cool and the flame localized to the nut. Try to go both ways after you heat it ip. Feel better.

Thanks to everyone that replied i added the malware and so far so good.

The decompression device could be malfunctioning. There is a set of springs on the cam with two small weights. Sometimes the springs break off. You also have the lever on the top of the engine that should be checked for proper operation.

Sounds strange that the chain is so loose. I would check the lower cam chain sprocket to make sure a tooth is not gone causing the chain to be so loose. How did you measure the chain? Are you 100% sure the tensioner is correct and all parts are in place? When you took the compression reading did you take it with throttle open or closed? Check the decompression device as well for proper operation Bent valves are somewhat hard to see and they could not be seated properly but i agree that you should see a mark or two on the piston because you know the previous owner cranked the hell out of it. So maybe the timing was out just far enough but not far enough to collide with the piston? For the price you paid and if the atv is clean then a full top end tear down sounds in order and is worth the investment but i would change the chain and inspect the lower sprocket as well. Good luck.

Thank you @Admin