Frank Angerano

The brake lever should just be a safety to close the start circuit. That wire your testing goes to the starter ? If so disconnect it from the relay so it’s independent and test that wire and the relay separately. I’m wondering if one of them wires is hot or burnt up someplace or if something failed inside the starter. Separate all of them and test individually.

Ok so unplug that plug from the relay and test it again. If you don't get a reading then you start tracing the lines off of that plug back. If you do continue to get a reading yiur going to have to trace that wire your on back. Why is that wire your testing black????

Ok well that’s a good thing If everything is clean and connected properly then I guess you can check that off the list. I really forgot how far back this thread goes. It’s all worth it though. These things run like hell when they are fixed right and usually only need general maintenance. However, your committed now so might as well finish strong and get it done. Your doing great.

Sounds good. Listen if that were my bike while you have everything open I would unplug the connectors and clean them with a little sand paper on (male connectors) and small flat head screw drivers and a small pic type tool inside the female connectors by gently scraping. Get some dialectic grease or electrical contact cleaner spray and apply to the connections and reconnect. It’s a smart thing to do while you have everything exposed and will guarantee solid connections. The grease or spray is cheap and can be bought at any auto parts store. Also by the way that bike looks really clean from what I can see so it looks like it’s a good machine and in tact and worth the effort.

Just make sure it’s working properly before you start testing.

Fyi you can pick up a cheap 12v test light and test a lot of that stuff as well. Just attach the alligator clip to ground and turn the key on you should have power on both sides of the breaker. The test light will come on.

That my friend is in the Turks and Cacos. Unbelievable place to be! Already booked next year. That parasail pic was at 650 took us up to just under 800 feet! I attached another pic. I cannot stress the level of quality here and the beauty. All inclusive as well. Only way to go!

Thanks brother, it was abut 650 in the air. First time parasailing. I did it with my oldest boy. Aside from the lightning a little rain should never stop one from riding! Me and @06kfx440 know this. Heading back to reality tomorrow night 😢 but looking forward to my garage/shop Reno.

My guess would be a fuel delivery issue that can be solved with a good carburetor cleaning and add a fuel filter as well. But I’m sure a valve adjustment is long overdue. As far as spark goes if you can clearly see a good spark when you pull the plug and test it then you don’t usually need to dig deeper into that. Might as well double check your timing as well while your adjusting the valves.

Welcome to Quadcrazy @Jordan Ritzman !

Probably needs a valve adjustment would be my guess. You can check this by taking a simple compression test. I would also check the fuel delivery system. Maybe a little bit of dirt caught up in the needle where the float is. This could cause The gas from getting up into the intake port of the carb. You could have gotten some bad or dirty gas. Hows the gas in the bike fresh ? Is the tank clean and maybe a fuel filter if you clean the carburetor. Last thing is make sure there are no leaks on the intake boot where the carburetor is mounted and make sure your vent hose on the gas cap is clear.

91 ? Let’s see a picture of that thing! What condition is it in, what are some of the problems going on and what wiring problems are you having?

Good morning!

Ok so I looked at the diagram for your bike. I was wrong on the sensor locations. I had them backwards. The sensor located in the cylinder head is the high temp indicator sensor. If you ground that wire your high temp light will come on. The fan thermal sensor is the one located in the radiator. That’s the one that that brings the fan in and would need replacing if bad. I’ve attached a few pages for your use. I noticed that there is also a circuit breaker for the fan located in the diagram that’s on the same line as the sensor. Try to find that and double check it. It could be as simple as resetting or replacing that. You can jump that circuit breaker or test it on each side for continuity. I’ve highlighted some items for ease. Just look for the color of the wire and follow along. The sensor in the radiator can be tested as well if you look at the pages but you maybe better off just replacing if your ordering parts. Take your time and don’t get frustrated, the answer is there someplace on the wiring I’ve showed you. It’s just a matter of process of elimination now. Good luck and keep us posted.

Well done. Keep us posted. I will see what I can find in the diagram.

It is cheap enough to do. When I get a few min I will pull up the diagram and see if I can make any sense out of it for you.

Hopefully it’s just the sensor. If you have the diagram post it I will look and see exactly what triggers the fan but my guess is you take the wire off that sensor on the head and ground it (harness side wire) and the fan should come on. The second sensor in the radiator may be for the high temp light or a safety. In the mean time you could temporarily wire that fan SAFELY to stay on and take the bike for the same ride you did to see if she overheats again and see how it runs overall. If it runs hot then you have a secondary problem like maybe a thermostat, water pump etc. If not then your problems are limited to just a sensor or wiring problem.

It sounds like a bad temp sensor that should be located on the head with a single wire coming off of it. Or the fan circuit itself has no power. Double check the fuses are good and the wiring is good. That fan is supposed to come on after the engine hits a certain temp. On a lot of engines the sensor is located someplace around the top of the head and has one wire coming off of it and screwed into the head. So when the sensor gets to the point that its designed it grounds the sensor by having a special piece of bimetal that bends on temperature and brings the fan on. So if you have that type of set up simply turn the key to the on position and take that wire off of the sensor and ground the wire.If the fan comes on you need a sensor. If it’s a two wire sensor you may have to unplug them from the sensor and jump them together instead of grounding. I would start there and also order a new thermostat and gasket and throw it in as well.

Ok so that eliminates the stator. I’m surprised that one wire brings the cdi and the rest of the system together. Find that wire coming from the on off button disconnect and see what happens. I’m still hoping it’s just a mater of an oem reg/rectifier that’s causing all this.

Hey Gary, I was looking through your wiring diagram and highlighted a few things. Please verify that I’m looking at the right diagram please. As a side note have you tested your stator coil to see that it’s not dead shorted. Reason I’m asking is based on your wiring diagram it looks as the stator goes directly to the regulator/rectifier. So I would unplug the stator and do a quick test from each phase to ground and see if you get any sort of continuity on the tester. You shouldn’t get any reading from any of them yellow wires to ground. If so there a problem within the stator. You can also unplug the stator and try the regulator again and see if it blows a fuse. Then if that checks out ok I would disconnect the battery and put one lead of the tester to the ground and start touching various parts of the red (hot wire) that comes from the fuse block going to the regulator as well as other areas that carry a 12v hot lead looking for a short. So make sure your tester is on continuity/ohms setting. I like to use a tester that beeps when there is continuity. Also test the starter wire, starter relay and the line going back to the battery to ground for continuity. This way you eliminated everything that could be a short leaving only a fault in the cdi. lastly the third pic I circled the on off switch in blue it appears the wire is listed as “P” so maybe (purple?) it comes from the on/off switch and if it’s disconnected it appears it will isolate the cdi unit from the rest of the system. So try to find that wire around the kill switch and unplug it. Install the new rectifier and see if the fuse pops. Im in and out of WiFi so if I don’t get back right away I’m out of range. Let me know. good luck

What’s up Eric and welcome to Quadcrazy! There’s always people looking for other people to ride in the areas you live In and many other areas as well. Check out some of the local clubs. Click on the top right side of the page drop down menu. Go to the clubs and click. Have a look. I think there is an NC club. Aside from that good luck with the new bike and be sure to post some pictures. Ride safe!

Good morning from da islands man!

Welcome to Quadcrazy @Monika Novakov I’m not sure what you mean by the generator/starter ? Do you mean the left side engine cover? The starter should be removable with a little bit of wiggling without taking that cover off. You can remove the left side engine cover to see what’s going on with the bendix/one way clutch depending on the year/model and see how it’s all operating and if anything is wrong. If the cover is sticking maybe a little tap with a rubber mallet will help. Here’s a YouTube video of a 250. Should be pretty much the same.

Why can’t you remove the old cable from the old cap ? Under the boot should be a metal bent piece than unscrews from the cap? At least that’s what I remember. I’m sure you probably checked it out but for some reason I thought that piece came off of the cap of the carburetor.

That’s a good piece of change to pick up for stuff laying around. We have all the same stuff here and now as well as the electronics like TVs etc, we are entering an age of where we will have to pay 10 cents per plastic bag at the supermarket now starting September here.