JacobSlabach

the cam was one tooth late of the flywheel.

the chain had good tension on it- not sure how to reset the tensioner on this motor tho- never seen a tensioner like it before. Also there isnt enough slack in the chain to jump it back like usual...how do I get more slack on the chain without taking the whole motor apart? btw someone was using their brain with this little groove in the flywheel bolt plug- I couldnt get the screwdriver to turn it without slipping so I just put in in the groove and gave it a tap with a hammer and boom, the plug turns loose. great trick!

looks like the cam jumped one tooth back. So just take the tensioner out and set it forward?

ok thanks! I'm just confused how to veiw the cam sproket? There is no cam cover and it looks like I'll have to take the head off the access it?

ok. I did not check oil as it looked fresh (clear and not musty smelling like moisture). I will check for oil flow with the q-tip. How can I check the timing and what should the valves be set to?

so how do I get to the cam and all on this unit? I see valve covers but no cam cover. And how do I check for oil flow? first time I've worked extensively on a honda so the engine setup is different and new to me

Stator tested good. Kill switch tested as not working (no reading to ground open or closed) I put clamps on the two bad connections one from the stater and one from the other side of the engine (might be the oil low/hot sensor?). I put the wiring harness back in putting connection grease on every connection as I went. Payed off cause I got spark. I put the plug back in and threw a makeshift gas tank on and up she started with no choke! The choke cable is locked up along with the rear foot and hand brake cables. It started with the kick-start, but it has a pronounced tick (sounds like a valve hitting the piston) so I think its out of time. How should I check the timing on this bike? I didnt see a viewing window for the cam on this motor.? so the next issue I'm tackling now is the tick. I did ride it up and down the drive and it did run strong in all gears and reverse. Btw this bike looks just like a '88 model fourtrax 350 i saw on YT

Polaris and yamaha. I know the scrambler makes a super fast bike but I dont think that will qualify in your type of race. I have heard good things about the yamaha raptor.

haha yea hopefully i can get a sportsman 850 or 1000cc at some point...

haha thing is one of my friends wants to buy it off me as soon as its running....oh well....cash first haha

check connection- sometimes corrosion can cause loose connections- I go through the whole harness and coat all connections with connecting grease to rule that out for any electrical issues.

hopefully i can get my warrior to look and work that good! working on the honda first tho

first pic is a bad connection running to the crankcase on the right side of the bike as you sit on it. second is the unknown hook-up right next to the pod headlight third it the bad connection coming from the stater (I think). this group of wires runs to the crankcase on the left side of the bike as you sit on it.

gas tank will be later, but thanks, will do! I dont know how to test a stater- never needed to up till now.. there was one wire coming from the stater that was electrical-taped together so that definitely wasnt helping- dont know if thats the case or not. I havnt checked my kill switch, dont know how to do that either- I have to admit that im not handy with electrical so please bear with me! If the cdi is the issue, wont 225 melt it? I'm not sure which is the cdi on this bike- there are many little boxes with wires going into them lol. I took the harness out so I could lube all the connections to rule them out. The kill swich is tuck in the 'on' position so I dont think thats an issue, but still want to check it. And of course everything is rusted/corroded/dry-rotted on this 80s bike from sitting out so litterally everything is a pain to work with.. but hopefully it'll pay off in the end! heres a pic of the bad connections i found and a hook up on the pod that I cant identify:

yea looking back at the pics, that one looks exactly like mine! I bet its the same model and year

so this bike is my next project. I stripped her down and removed the gas tank. the carb was in the box and i cleaned that up. I was soaking the rubber boot in gas that hooks the carb to the manifold because it was shrunk like they do. The oil looked fresh in this atv and the engine spins freely with the kick start. I will still drain it because the washer on the drain plug was over-compressed and the bottom of the motor was wet from a leak- hopefully the drain plug is the cause. The issue keeping the bike form running right now is no spark. spark plug looks un-used, the ig coil isnt picking up any voltage as far as I can tell so I dont know if this is a staor issue..? When I kick it, the neutral and oil temp lights flicker so it is sending voltage to the battery... (I threw the bad battery on it from the warrior) Also I jumped ot with the polaris and the starter acted sluggish at first like it wasnt getting much voltage, then it quit turning the motor over even when I jumped the solenoid. also this bike has the old metal gas tank and I see peeling paint on the inside of it. How should I clean this out so the crap doesnt get into the carb? I didnt see any rust, just peeled paint. So the issues that I see so far: No spark- I think the coil is good leak on the bottom of the motor gas tank has peeling paint starter sluggish/inactive

comment on what you guys think i should do with this bike... my biggest concern rn is how big can I go with my wheels? I was thinking of a square setup (front tires are as wide as the rear) with 1in wheel spacers. I have a 2in lift on the bike, but I concerned that 28in are gonna scrub the fenders...?

so I'm trying to figure out if I want to keep this bike or sell it. So I want an 850 or 1000cc for playing around and work and trail riding and stuff... but I kinda want to keep this bike and make it into a mud bike...like put bigger wheels on it, snorkel and relocate the radiator...that way if I sink it and kill it, its 2k gone rather than 8k (for a newer efi model) Yoiu guys think its worth it? Is this a good bike for modding it into a mud machine? If so, what necessary and whats not for the mud? the other option is to sell it... I know I can get at least 2500 out of it right now.. I have 2k in it currently.

@06kfx440 ok, didnt know if this was the same ride.. @Frank Angerano looks like a lot of fun! that creek is pretty deep- I cut the stock snorkel off my polaris to let more air in so I currently cant get in water up past the seat.. well looking at it again, it looks like it was just splashing up around the front of the atv making it look deeper..

great topic! Was about to ask this question for my warrior as the plastics are a little faded (they are white so its harder to tell, but they definitely aged...)

if its the same with jumping it then its not the battery. What @Frank Angerano said makes sense testing to see if its hard to push in gear (like if you were trying to push-start it.

never saw a date on here... but hay you guys have fun and post some pics!

what was it doing? i think its hard when a company (any company) starts making a new model of atvs to get all the parts bulletproof on the first try...every model is different and polaris has to make new parts for each.. I think before long the 450, 570, 850, and 1000cc will be just as reliable as the old 400 and 500cc that were ruled the first class atvs in the world in their day.... just remember, if a product is totally garbage, no one would buy it and the manufacturer would go out of business. the exception is with the chinese atvs that are just so dirt cheap that folks cant resist.

that honda looks a little like mine: I think mines older tho.... its a 4-trx and its the model that has the backup kick-start rather than recoil

oh shoot. I didnt take any because I knew what I was doing this time. apologies to the forum! Will take pics of the warrior as I get to it.