TexasRapier

To adjust the shifter place the bike in neutral. You should have a N on the display. Adjust the linkage so that the shift lever is in the center on the neutral shift gate with no pressure to the plastic gate. snug up the lock nuts. Now try all the gears, the only gear that may be difficult is low. Low may need a little tap of the throttle for the gears to shift.

Well, the 250 and 650 shouldn't have been two bad but if it was the first service on the xtx and if they did everything they were suppose to do it could get pricy. There's no reason why you shouldn't be able to do your own routine maintenance. I will say the oil is the lifes blood of the motor but it's also got to breath. I have seen 5 motors destroyed this year do to piss poor maintenance. Pay close atension to your air filter, if it clogs it can bypass the filter and the motor starts eating dirt. damage to the motor do to lack of maintenance is not cover by warranty.

Happy you found you problem, The CDI is the one thing that there is no real trouble shooting for. If you trouble shoot everything else and the all test good then it time to try a CDI. Sence it appears your CDI was bad I do recommend you replace the voltage regulator. The CDI are solid state units with no moving parts and the only thing that damages them is voltage spikes. The Stator put out 60 volt ac and the voltage regulator converts it to 14 to 16 volts dc. if it is internally shorted it can pass ac voltage to the CDI and damage it

It would be best with the original carb. There can be a lot of differances between carbs from one manufacture to another. ventura, jets,orfaces can be all different fom one motor to the next even though they are the same size motor. Bore and stroke, valve size, cam lift and duration, exhaust restriction, air cleaner restriction and intake runner size and length will all effect volumetric flow rate of the carburator. with out the correct carb you could be chasing problems forever and never get close. Plus it could be close enough to run but if to lean or to rich it could destroy the motor.

80 % of all the older Arctic Cat's running issues are in the fuel system. Theres nothing wrong with the fuel system but with the introduction of ethanol lots of problems have come up. Hears the problem, all fuel has trash in it. Most of the trash collects on the bottom and walls of the fuel tank. What stays floating in the fuel is caught by the filters. Now introduce ethanol, Ethanol is an outstanding cleaner!!!! All that trash that collected on the walls of the tank is now coming loose, plus the filters in the tank are deteriorated by ethanol. Just to prove it, turn off the gas valve, pull the hose, I bet it leaks. Even the fuel line used at the time can be deteriorated by ethanol. So, what needs to be done, luckly everything in the carb has no problem ethanol. First the carburator needs to be completly disassembled, The main parts need to be soaked in carb cleaner for 30 mim to a hour. Then flushed with hot water and blow out with compressed air. Inspect all rubber parts for deterioration and replaced if needed. Reassemble making sure to set the pilot jet and the float setting to factory spec. I can get them for you if needed. Now, remove all the fuel hose and drain the tank, if the valve leaks replace it, there cheap. While the tank is empty look in it with a flash light. if it's got scum buildup in it, it will need to be cleaned. Install the new valve and replace the fuel lines with ethanol safe fuel hose. It is also a good idea to install a good quality in-line fuel filter. With everything put back togeather add fresh gas and you should be good to go. I do recommend using a good fuel stablizer for ethanol, I prefer the Yamaha Marine product fuel stablizer, It's like stablizer on steriods. Another produst I recommend is another Yamaha marine product called ring free, it is a carbon removing compound that cleans carbon from the valves, rings and piston. The stuff works. Good luck

Stator's usually don't act-up. They either work or they don't. However, the flywheels of that erea had glue on magnetics and over time the glue will release and the magnetic will move around on the flywheel. This can be verified with a stator voltage out put test and a trigger test. But they are also usually not intermitant. Coils can be effected by heat, a break in the windings that is closed when cool and opens when hot. The first thing I would check is all the battery and engine grounds. Make sure there clean a tight. Make sure the main and aux fuses are clean and there plug-in are clean. Also check where thers harness connects to the start solinod. these is where the system draws power.

A lot of low speed operation can cause a build up of excess carbon on the top of the piston, rings and valves. it will stick the rings in the piston. Yamaha Marine Group Has a product I have used several time with positive results. The product name is RingFree. It has two mixture ratios, the first is called a shock treatment and the mixture is one once to one gallon of gas and the second is a maintence mixture of one once to ten gallons. What the product does is loosen the built up carbon in the combustion chamber and romove it. The shock treatment gets the carbon cleaned out and the maintence treatment keeps it out. Run one tank at shock level and two to three tanks at maintenance and monitor your smoke and oil consumption. If the problem is due to carbon build up this stuff will clear it up. A pint bottle is about $20.00, That will do a shock and several maintenance tanks.

I was at the Mud Nationals. As many know this was sponsored by Highlifter and PoPo. the pit races were originally suppose to be three lap and just prior to the finals the race was changed to a lap and a half. Oh, in the heats prior to the main the only two Arctic Cats where paired up on the same heat so one would have to be eliminated. I spoke to one of the Popo techs and stated that the popo's where so highly modified that they would be lucky to run a lap and a half. he also stated that the Cat's would be hard to beat in a three lap race. He basically said once the Cat's get up to speed they stay there. I be the first to say that Cats aren't perfect, but if they where theyed price themselves out of the market. I did hear some more info on the WildCat, they will be running the 951 cc motor(1000) but it will be running an all new throttle body. What the throttle body does I don't know but I don't think they would be de-tuning it. Also the 1000 main case was changed in 2011.

I think/hope Arctic Cat is an up and coming company, They are one of the few companies that are building a perpose built bikes namely the Mud Pro and the new to come WildCat Side by Sides. IMO the biggest Problems with Arctic Cat is it's a small company trying to compete with the big boys and their deep pockets. Another problem with Cat is name reconigition, advertising and dealer support. No Team support or sponsored riders. They need to step up there game.

The 300 are a great little motor and and there not a lot that go's wrong with them. 90% of the problems I see with these motor are carb related. However, the ethonal fuel is causing a lot of problems with older machines not designed for the new fuel. First off the intire fuel system should be cleaned, fuel lines replaced and good inline fuel filter installed. The tank should be cleaned and the in tank filters/screens should be replaced. also you should check the tank valve and make sure it will turn off the fuel flow to the carb. The valve is 12 years old and probably leaking by. Also there cheap to replace. about $20.00 for the new valve and the screens come with it. You stated that they adjusted the carb. There is only two real adjustments that can be made to this carb. First is the pilot jet, it controls the engine idle mixture and second the float setting which control the level of fuel in the bowl. Everthing else is controlled by preset jetting. The one other thing I see with these motors is the rubber carb to head adaptor dry rots over time and causes an air leak. First confirm that you are running the correct plug. NGK DR7EA. Next for peace of mind do a compression test, should be around 135 psi. Next a proper cleaning and servicing of the carb. should put everything back to proper order.

\ Have you removed the speed limiting collars yet?

Hello Mike Thanks for the welcome. Steel, did you ever run the compression test with the throttle open ?

I am hear to learn as much as help, I can pretty much diagnose and repair anything on an Arctic Cat, no problem to big or to small. But I am trying to expand the dealer service department to do more aftermarket sales and installs. Things Like clutch work, pipes and mufflers, snorkels, radiator/oil cooler relocation kits and for course tires and wheels. I have already done several snorkel jobs on customers Arctic Cats using factory snorkel parts and all turned out perfect. Lift kits, tires a wheels are no big deal. The area I need to more knowledge is in the area of pipes, muffles and tuners. I'm familiar with the Power Commander line, I have one on my Harley. A Power Commander V with the Auto Tune. But it is a pretty much no tune install. Start with a base map and let the auto tune do its job.

As I said the information valve on the WILDCAT is turned off, But what I've heard is one will be the width of the std XTX Prowler. 61.5 inches. Remember you don't have to change the suspension to change the outside to outside wheel width. All you have to change Rim offset. No promises, But it does make sense. I seriously doubt even though it is a totally new unit I'm sure there’s a lot of in use parts in it. For example: The new "Quick Pull Axles" The new axles have 40% more articulation than the old axles. So, how much suspension travel does the WILDCAT have, a lot!! I think the bikes design was based in baja and it will be designed to surpass anything in that market but I also think their smart enough to know, there bread a butter is in a trail machine. Different tires and in low range it would be a hell of a rock crawler. Especially with the on the fly locking front diff.

The WildCat is still even HUSH HUSH inside Arctic Cat. The RSD department and the top dogs at Arctic Cat are the few that know whats going on. Even the Area Reps arn't allowed to get close enough to it to pick up any decernable facts. The biggest speculation is in reguards to the power plant. Some say it will be 951 v2 motor, Other are talking about an 1100 cc inline 3 cylinder that comes in two configurations, First is naturally asperated and the second is turbocharged!!!!! I think the std was 110 hp while the turbo version 165 hp. I heard talk of a realease date of spring 2012.

Do you do your plowing in High Gear?

The VIN is located in two places on this bike. The first is a foil label located forward of the engine on the lower frame cross bar. The second is a pin-prick stamping on the left rear frame rail just inside of the left rear tire.

The 2005 auto carb has a extended throttle adjustment. It will look like a rubber hose about 4 inches long with a knob hanging off the back side of the carb. Turning clockwise will increase rpm, Counter Clockwise will decrease rpm. Why is it doing what is doing. When the engine is at it's proper rpm the Centrifugal Clutch is fully disingauged and the is no ingaugement of the bikes drive system. As engine rpm increases the Centrifugal clutch starts ingauging the drive system, the belt starts rotating and the trans starts turning. The transmission on these bike are a streight gear geartrain and the there are no synchronizers in the system. So with the rpm's raising everything in the trans is moving and your trying to a move a non-rotating gear into a rotating gear. With out a synchronizer the gears will never mesh. Why has your engine rpm gone up? More than likely it is a varnish build up in the idle curcuit. The varnish has restricted the idle curcuit causing the engine to be running leaner at idle. The lean condition causes the engine to increase rpm. I would recommend running a good fuel system cleaner in gas. It is also a good idea to run a good fuel stablizer designed to work with ethonal. Todays gas sucks.

Happy you found the problem, Sorry it isn't a simple fix. Unusually for this cam set-up to jump time. Be interested to see pictured of the disassembly. if your doing a top end job pay attension to the cam tensioner and make sure it is working properly and it would be a go idea to replace the chain guides. It's not a hard job to do yourself but pay close attension to the cam timing to get it right. This is where most people make an error. Keep us updated, and if you need help, feel free to pm me.

I work at Pete Jorgensen Marine in Beauont Tx. They took on Arctic Cat about 16 months ago and I went to work for them about a year ago. They are primarely a Marine Dealership. But the Arctic cat Side of the house is picking up. I am pretty much a one man show. I am my own Arctic Cat Service Department, Service MGR, Service Writer, Parts Man and Tech. Yes I did make it to the Nats, I was working the Arctic Cat Display. I must have spoke with a couple of hundred people while there. I did see something there that was interesting to me. I never thought That I would see rubber boots and bikini's as a fashion statment.

I'm new to the fourm but I am an Arctic Cat Tech. First which bike are you working on, I read that it is an 2007 but which Model/Engine. Question on your compression test, 100 psi is a little low. when you did the compression test did you have the throttle in the wide open position?

Hello All, Just joined the fourms. I will be mostly on the Cat fourms. I am a Certifid Arctic Cat Tech located in Beaumont Texas. Hope to help where I can and learn to. Thanks All

New to the fourm But not new to ATV's Certified Arctic Cat Tech. Sout East Texas.