davefrombc

Good luck if you think the GOP and tRump's " tax cuts" are going to put any more money in your pocket unless you are part of the 1%. I'll take our Canadian single payer healthcare system. Paid for through taxes that cost us far less than any plan in the US. No co-pay, we choose our doctor, no exclusions for pre-existing conditions and no caps. It's not perfect by any means , but everyone is covered and nobody has to go broke because they had the audacity to have a child or get sick or injured.

Bogging under part throttle is almost always due to fuel starvation. Clean the carb again.. Look for tiny jets plugged.. Some orifices are easy to miss. Use "canned air" to blow our passages if you don't have a source of compressed air.. Welders tip cleaner sets have wires that fit nearly every jet and orifice.

You can make your own spacers out of aluminum round stock . Drill and tap the spacers if you're going to weld them on; otherwise through drill them and deepen the holes in the case to re-thread them. . Use sealant on the new bolts if you break into the interior of the case. Make sure new bolts don't interfere with the internal parts. If welding spacers on the case, be very careful not to warp the case or damage the bearing and seal behind the output sprocket.

Is there enough depth left in the bolt holes to deepen the threads enough to hold a new guard on ? You might be able to drill them a little deeper if necessary and if you break into the interior of the case , you could use sealant on the bolts . You'd need to make sure the bolts are long enough to hold without being so long as to not tighten down if the bottom out or interfere with the internals if they holes got right into the interior of the case. I'd smooth out both mounting points and cut spacers to bring them out to original length if you can find a new, old stock or used guard, or if unable to do that fab up a new sprocket guard yourself.

Just how dry is the county considering the history of the area ? Old traditions and thirsts die hard and there's all sorts of us like reviving some old traditions. Somehow I can picture quads replacing the old hot rods albeit on a much smaller scale

I'd weld up the crack and also gusset to both bars

I don't think the idler gear could fall out without the cases being split apart. If you couldn't find anything else loose in there that could have fallen down and interfered with rotor and one way clutch behind it . I don't know where the noise would have been coming from.. As I said, I've never had to tear one apart, so I can only make semi-educated guesses from my automotive experience. Try rotating the gear train that makes the clutch engage to start the engine and see if you notice any noise or roughness there .. I doubt it will engage the motor and lock up to start since the rotation speed would be so slow and I think the one way clutch would need a fairly fast rotation to engage.

Likely something in the gearing for the starter. That would be why it was locking up with the starter in place.

Check the Warrior service manual in the downloads section for a wiring diagram. Possibly the start relay is faulty. Since you have changed all the ignition components , it must be something in the circuit is open.

Did you also change the pick up (trigger) coil and check the spark plug ? Often it is just the pick up that fails.

I haven't had to mess with the ignition and cam timing on a quad motor so I cannot be sure , but I believe the sprockets are keyed to the shafts and are not adjustable. I believe about the only thing that could take them partially off center would be wear on the sprocket teeth and chain stretch.. Neither should have a great effect on the timing and how the engine responds.. If the chain jumped a tooth or more due to wear and a loose slack adjuster, I believe the timing would be much farther out and the motor would be greatly effected at all speeds from idle up. I don't believe that is your problem. The most likely is fuel problems , with a much less likely possibility of weak spark.

It sounds like it is starving for fuel.. I'd start by adjusting the idle air screw. Start at about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated. and try in 1/4 turn adjustments out or in to see if that cures the idle and accelerate from idle problem .. also check for air ( vacuum) leaks. If that doesn't do it then I'd suggest taking the carb apart and recheck float height and carb jets and passages for blockages. . Even a brand new carb could hacve some manufacturing debris in it , and rebuilt could have a missed blockage or float height set wrong .

I did a search on your quad to find out what the diaphragm on the fuel valve was all about. .Found out it is for an automatic fuel shut off and seems to be problematic. Check this thread I found if your valve has that feature .. Says you can block the vacuum lines and run the quad with the valve in the Pri position. http://www.suzukiatvforums.com/forums/repair-maintenance/3970-vacuum-operated-fuel-tank-valve-petcock.html

Downloads ok with Firefox too, and opens with my Adobe Acrobat no problems. It should open without problem in any .pdf reader.

2003 Polaris Magnum 330 parts manual View File Parts manual with exploded views Submitter davefrombc Submitted 11/07/2017 Category Polaris ATV  

Couldn't find a free download of the service manual , but did find a parts manual that might help . I uploaded it to the Polaris section in Downloads

I would suspect the voltage regulator or the alternator. There's also the possibility the power steering is drawing too much power for some reason and the momentary voltage drop is causing the ignition or fuel injectors to cut out. When you have the motor revved up the alternator is putting out more power so you wouldn't get the large drop and cut out. I don't think it is the ECU.

The year should be coded in the VIN number. Here is a site explaining VIN coding on ATVs. http://www.atvstyle.com/atv-vin-number As far as chasing down a fault, Start at the starter circuit .. Since you get a spark when you release the start button , it indicates to me there is no current to the ignition while the starter is activated , but there is when it is released. I would strongly suspect the starter relay or the wire from it that supplies ignition current when it is activated.

I would suspect a faulty relay or loose wire. I did a quick search and came up with a site with a pdf of the service manual to help you chase down faults. You can download it here : http://www.peirspeed.com/Cobrasales/docs/TGB Outback 425 - Service Manual.pdf

Are they bolts or studs? Usually such as exhaust manifolds or pipes in the case of single cylinder engines are connected using studs into the engine and nuts to secure the pipe to the exhaust .. Some penetrating oils will wick into nuts , studs or even blind bolts .. Warming the engine might help, but be careful of fire after spraying penetrating oil. If the stud nuts or bolts don't break loose fairly easily , try tightening a little and then loosening .. "rock" them a little without over torquing in either direction also helps break a stubborn bolt/ nut loose.

I found a thread on another forum describing much the same problem you have .. I'm copying and pasting his problem and solution : i just got a used 2003 Bombardier Quest 500 with the rotax motor and the po said it needed an oil change because the oil light was on and that was making it cut out. it cranks and idles great, runs good, good trans, steering, tires, etc, but when you give it gas, it cuts out like it has a rev limiter, but it does it in all gears. when i first crank it, it will rev all the way up, but after a minute it starts cutting out. if i cut it off and wait a few minutes, it will rev all the way up again for a minute or so. does anyone know what i can check? ive checked the intake boot, the carb is clean on the inside, ive changed the oil, the oil sending unit is bad, ive grounded out the wire so the light would go off and it still cuts out. what else can i do? thanks, chuck got it fixed! it was a ground wire pulled out of the MPEM box. now i need a good speedometer and the half round light section beside it, the guy i had fix it flipped it over and messed that stuff up. maybe someone is parting one out. it was a ground wire coming out of the box bolted to the air box. seems like it was black and grounded to the frame and pulled loose from the plug. I also saw it noted there is a rubber section connecting the carb to block. . Check there for vacuum leaks too. That's the best I can do to help. From other forums I gather the problem can also be from a rev limiter not reading a sensor right , or a bad sensor so maybe a check of the wires to the various sensors is also warranted.

It looks from those drawings the fuel pump is vacuum operated by the hose connected in the intake right at the cylinder block .. Could there be a vacuum leak there ? I have no idea on the green hose and have no pictures other than what you supplied to make any guesses from.

I'm not familiar with the setup on that carb and motor but I'd guess maybe the dangling hose fits the carb where the black cap is?....Just wondering if it fell off the original carb since you indicate it was open there rather than capped. Where does the connected end of the dangling hose connect? That might give you some clue ... I can only make guesses from the symptoms described and those symptoms point to a vacuum leak or blocked jet .. Since the carb is new , then I would guess a vacuum problem , but from where I can't say . Didn't find a free download of a service manual without joining an e pub site and my anti virus blocks connecting to ones I found. I'm leery of re-directs when searching for one item . There are some low cost ones though. If you do get a download of one , I'm sure the forum would appreciate you adding it to the library .

If you have to keep the choke on to get it to idle there is a problem with either with a vacuum leak, a jet plugged in the idle circuit or possibly the floats are set too low and not allowing the float bowl to fill to the proper level . Something is stopping it from drawing enough fuel, making it run lean at idle.. Take the carb apart . Blow our the passages in the carb. Blow them back, against normal flow .. "Canned air" such as that used to blow dust out of computers works well.. Check the jets , especially the main one for tiny holes plugged. You would need a fine wire to poke out any that won't clear with just an air blast. In many carbs there are tiny holes in the side near the bottom of the main jet that are easily missed when checking for blockages.