Frank Angerano

It may be oil injected also so if thats the case I’m curious if there’s too much oil going into the mix. Is there a lot of smoke ?

Hey @Jhyman1984 Nice bike! So that’s a great little engine. 90 psi is perfect. I like the way you tore it down. I do the same thing whenever I get my hands on a new bike to fix up. So as far as the clutch what made you order a new one. Just to have it fresh ? I don’t think it’s the clutch but if the previous owner beat the crap out of it maybe. Does the drag feel like a power loss on the engine side or does the engine rev but no power like a drive train problem? The oem rebuild kit for the carb is the best way to go. Make sure you take your time and refer to the manual for the fuel air mixture screw. Quick question. What’s your fuel/oil mixture? How are you mixing and what’s your ratio. Its not a complicated engin at all. So it won’t be that difficult to get back up to par.

Ok let me know how it goes. I’ve been curious to see how this whole thing turns out.

Ohhhh tight sorry.

Post a pic of that.

Adjust the valves as described and fire it up. See how it sounds. It should be fine.

Not sure about making it work via “redneck” style lol if you are sure it’s bad and the bike is worth it then go for the replacement. What’s stripped the splines on the shaft itself? I would not weld it since the heat will prob kill the seal on the shifter. If you do weld make sure you disconnect the stator coil. It will fry!

If you set the timing where it needs to be as described and all marks are lined up then your at top dead center. The valves can now be adjusted as per the manual recommended setting. What are you not sure of ?

True story !!!!

Welcome to Quadcrazy. You found the right spot for atv’s. Good luck on the restore! So what shape is it in, year etc. Is the bike running? I’ve done quite a few bike restore and would share any info on what I’ve done to save me money, and time not to mention that there are so many memebers here that can also help along the way. So good luck and share some pics of you can. 🤙🏻

It’s on the outside I believe . And yes the cold is a bi*** especially when you bang knuckles lol 😮

Sorry I thought you had the engine apart. There is a gap that you are more then aware of based on the responses you’ve given. You seem knowledgeable. That gap may have changed from any number of reasons. One being something in the engine that let loose. Small piece of something inside the engine maybe ? Anything’s possable. I think the swapping of he cdi if yours was bad would have fired up even with the years in difference as long as the plugs matched. How about the kill switch testing for continuity? Sorry for the repetitive questions, I’ve missed things in the past. Just want to make sure before you go ripping into the engine. Or get deeply involved if it’s something right in front of your face.

The wiring could have changed but you would really have to compare the two diagrams to be sure. The stator coil should read no more then 0.63 on any of the legs. The voltage seems low also. Also the pick up coil gap to the magnet have you checked the gap? When you checked the secondary coil did you check it with the spark plug wire on or off the coil? And have you tested the spark plug wire as well? The kill switch you tested for ohms... did you check that you have and opened and closed circuit (continuity) on the switch and that it’s not making partial connectivity and not fully opening? The switch could be bad or corroded inside. All the components inside are made of brass or copper which are all subject to corrosion/oxidation. Im going to look at the manual and see if anything stands out and try to help you out a bit. I’m sure someone on the site has had this problem and will chime in as well.

Great pics. Looks like you have a lot of room on that shop. Great work! Any surprises?

Maybe.... but it looks very shallow and now run the risk of getting shut down before they even get the opportunity to get the manual. You can reach 10 posts rather quickly but whatever. Is what it is I guess.

Ok so let’s get into the wiring harness and start going through it all. This is something we are going to help you out with. There are quite a few ppl here like myself that will help. If you don’t mind can I ask how you tested the stator ? I’m sure yiur more then capable but I’ve made mistakes on this before.

I agree w @Ajmboy it’s sad that it’s continuity going on. 1,2,3,4 on and on and on. Anyone who does this should be flagged and booted before they even get close to the 10 count.

Is there a part number on it

Start stripping it down and going through the harness. The crab is going to have to be cleaned plus that shifting issue. Keep in mind that even if it’s not worth fixing the plastics alone are prob worth 500-600 so parting it out you would make your money back. But you have to decide once you get into it. Carburetor * crab 🤣

So I had a friend that did the same thing to the same bike. And found that the harness burnt up inside the bundles of wires. Completely melted. He knew right away because he smelt it and seen a little smoke. Did you see or smell any of that ? How there was no protection is beyond me. He wound up changing the entire harness. The stator coil was also wasted. The only good thing it the harness was only $85 and the stator I don’t remeber the cost. Make sure there is not a fuse anywhere before you go through all of this and download the manual to review the harness. Some models have a fuseable link that could burn up preventing damage. But honestly I would check the tranny first and make sure it’s all good before you put any money into it. If the gears are shot then it’s big bucks and you might want to cut your loss now !

Ok well that’s good on the other coils. As crazy as it sounds it worked on my Honda fourtrax. It failed about two days later but I knew where to spending parts tg. Put a new cdi and bike was solid. It basically dries out the inside of the cdi. I put my oven on 225 let it get to temperature and then put the box in for 10 min. It was hot as hell and needed to cool for 15 mon lol. But it worked.

Has the bike been sitting ? What condition is the cdi in? Is it possible any moisture got into the cdi. Most cdi units fail bc of moisture getting inside. Believe it or not you can put it in the oven on 225 deg for 10 min , NO more. Let it cool off and put it in the bike. Crazy but it works! it’s a temporary fix but will tell you if that’s the problem. Second; have you checked and tested the stator coil, pick up and secondary coils?

I have and it didn’t work out very well. I tried a heat gun and that worked ok but it was a lot of work and if you get to close it will bubble. The heat restores the color, it’s spotty but like I said it’s a pain in the as*.

I don’t think low oil would make a grinding noise. I think low oil maybe caused a damaged gear and something is now broken causing a grinding noise like a differential ring gear or pinion gear. If you keep riding it most likely will get worse. I would stop riding and take it apart. Maybe you will limit the damage now and only have to replace a few parts instead of all of the parts.

Ha yea definitely need extra parts and tools. So it’s all good now ? If you can’t ride it like you want then what’s the use in having it ?