Frank Angerano

So maybe a couple of things could be going on. One is maybe yiur timing was off and you bent the rocker arm. Two maybe the rocker arm is moving side to side when it shouldn’t be. We’re there spacers in the head that kept it centered? Three is you put the wrong valve in that opening?

I had this situation happen. The oil fill plug was an allen socket that stripped. So what I did and it may work for you. First I ordered a new one. Then I warmed the engine up and had a compound called “JB weld”. It’s metal repair compound. I mixed it good and put it in the allen key hole and put the socket into the allen hole as well. It took 10 min to set up at best so you have to be quick. I let it sit for 15 min and put the socket driver on and spin it out.

Going to have any time to start looking into the head ? And check the valves ?

👍

Wow !! That’s some post. Getting into something like this is a little time consuming and frustrating but rewarding when it works out. If making a mistake like the needle makes you and idiot then I’m an idiot a hundred times lol. It happens !!!! That’s a little extream though. Question; why all the removal of the restrictors? I have a feeling that may come back to bite you in the as* and may not allow the bike to run properly just keep in mind. As far as the oil injection goes there is a small oil line coming from the pump into the carb? If so you can pull that hose off as well as the spark plug wire and and turn the gas valve off so you don’t flood the head and crank the engine over and you should see the oil pump out of the hose. When you tightened the head down did you tighten down in crisscross pattern so it’s all even ?

Have you checked eBay ?

Awesome. When you pull that cover off and get the clutch and belt off you will see the weights and the shoes that grip on the clutch itself. You can take a screwdriver flat head and stick it in between the weights and pry and you should see them expand outward evenly. There have been some of these cases when opened up have had water inside and a ton of rust. Hopefully not yours.

Well that’s the first time I’ve ever heard anyone call an atv a “joy toy” but hey why not! Why change the cables ? I’ve always taken them off the handle bars, strung them up and sprayed wd-40 into them. It works it’s way down after a day or so and they should be fine. Unless they are broken. How are the tires ?

I’m sure but I’m hoping that the bearing is not bad leaving play. It may look ok but that means nothing. Anyway check the valves like I said see how that goes.

Got ya I know it slides out but I was wondering if you inspected it before you put it back together. Check that valve clearance like I said after that I’m stumped as to what the knock can be unless somethings not put back right ?

When you get the engine to top dead center and the T is in the small window on the flywheel and the marks are lined up on the cam sprocket with the head yiu are at top dead center. Is there play in the valves ?

Just rotate the motor and watch the valve move up and down. When it gets to the highest and tightest spot then that’s the top of the lobe on the cam feel how tight the valve is.

The only knock I can think of was on my bayou 400 and it was where the cam sits. It’s called a journal where the cam sits. The cam was actually hopping up and down. I should hope that’s not the problem. Here are a few pics of my old head where the cam sits. Did you take any pics or notice this condition ?

I can’t imagine you would bend a valve. So try this, take the caps off the head and rotate the engine and watch the valves move slowly and see if they get too tight as you hit the top of the lobe on the cam or if they still feel loose at the top. Also check that the head is wet from oil pumping up.

Yes sir music 🎶 is key beer too!

Ok so what’s the tap sound like is it a low oil sound ? Tap tap ? Or a knock

You can also take them valve cover caps off the head and start the bike for a minute. Just be prepared for a little smoke. Maybe you can see or hear better as to what’s going on.

No it should be dry since that clutch works on friction. You def have to change that oil ASAP. Maybe run it a bit after you get it dialed in after the carb and other new parts are in, warm it up a bit and drop the oil and change before thinking about touching the clutch. Because honestly even after that maybe one more time you should change it again, that’s a good flush. That carb screw air fuel set it at 2-1/4 turns out from a snug position and start it up and see how it goes. If it’s not good go 1-1/2. Try that. If the engine starts up and is some what smooth right away then that’s the set point to start at. Then a few slight adjustments from that point will dial it in good. Make sure you have the air filter and air box on before you make the adjustment. Once you get that engine tuned see how she runs and go from there.

What’s the clicking like ? Is there a compression relief on the head ? And if so does it feel right ?

Haha off a cliff??? Nah it’s not that bad. Lots of us get frustrated with this sort of thing so take a deep breath and regroup. Based on what you changed and then the carburetor rebuild kit going in if that does not fix then the drag sounds to be in the drive train. You will figure it out. My guess is it’s the centrifugal clutch. The springs that allow the clutch to expand aren’t doing so or are opening unevenly and grabbing improperly. Its pretty easy to open up the side cover and see what’s going on.

That sucks @Airborne. The one box that was missing sh** and you wind up getting it!!! Story of my life lol. Well at least the company was receptive and accommodating.

That’s what I think. And reason I said that is my buddy that did the same thing burnt up immediately! Same bike. So maybe it’s not that bad.

You are welcome!!! Now let’s hope all that hard work turns out to be worth it. This long distance troubleshooting thing is not easy 🤣

Yea I see, wow it’s beat up. Does it come out? I haven’t looked at the manual so I’m guessing right now. Have you looked or tried to remove it? Years ago I would drill though it and bolt it but it’s risky if your rough on the shifter because it takes away from the strength of the shifter rod.

Hopefully you didn’t. That’s why I sent the video. When in doubt go to the manual and YouTube. That video is your engine so it really explains how it’s done. I could try to write and explain but video is the best.