Frank Angerano

Wow 85’s nice. Does it look like the shifter was ever taken off ? Did it slip down maybe lol it was slammed down ? also do the other gears work ?

Sounds like the break line going down to the wheels is wrapped around something. When you turn it puts pressure on the break line.

Have you checked the valve seals ? Pull the top cover off and crank and see if you have air coming from valve seals. I would disconnect the spark plug wire and put a jumper pack on it and crank the sh** out of it and feel for an air leak someplace. Spray the sh** out of the engine with a good soapy water mix, I like to use what air conditioning mechanics use for leak checks. It’s a real soapy mixture. An air bubble will show up someplace. Im shocked that the timing has jumped like that and would result in the valve slamming into the piston thus cracking the top of the piston or bending a valve. But depends on how far out the timing really was when the jump happened. I would really take a look again to see if the jug, piston or head is cracked as well as @06kfx440 has stated and that the piston is actually moving full rotations.

Have you raised the front end off the ground and spin the wheels to see if they are free? The brakes may be partially locked . Check the rear as well. Also look at the shocks maybe one or both are blown.

Your spark may be breaking down as the RPM’S come up. This happened with my Polaris which had a rev limiter on it also. So @06kfx440 may have a point. I was pointed in the direction of a faulty rev limiter on one of my bikes through the forum here. I purchased this spark tester and put it in line with the spark plug. Started and watched the spark break down/fail as I reved the bike. I removed the rev limiter and my problem was solved. Worth a shot and cheap enough to try. It’s also a good tool to have. Having ruled out the fuel system it may be time to start looking in the ignition system. Rev limiter bad pick up coil stator coil problem regulator cdi box 4 of the 5 above listed parts can be tested and the repair manual will explain as far as how and what numbers should be shown on the tester during this process. I attached a pic of the spark tester.

Something was possibly missed. I’ve done it plenty of times. I’ve rebuilt my carb and put it all back together just to find something that was over looked. It happens. Secondary looks do usually turn up the culprit and if not then at the very least it completely rules out that portion of the problem.

It really sounds like a fuel issue. Have you checked the fuel tank for any blockage ? Maybe dirty filter if there’s one in place as well as a clogged fuel valve at the bottom of the tank. Also could be dirty carburetor problems. I would start from the ya k down to the carb and go from there.

Welcome to Quadcrazy!

Fuel pump and carburetor?

@etsbigbear I’m assuming your starter is getting hot and not working properly. But will work when cooled down. The next time this happens I would try to jump the starter at the solinoid and see if the starter turns the engine. But only do that for a few seconds at most. If you get no spin then most likely a starter. Also when the symptom happens you can also try this. If you have a tester you can see if the wire at the starter is getting 12 volts when you press the start button. Make sure the wire located at the starter is where you are testing. Red lead on the wire at the starter and black lead on a good ground.

That’s 100% a bear tracker 250. I have the same bike. Work horse! Looks like a 2000-2001.

Welcome to Quad Crazy!

I would guess that the petcock has water in there as well and could have started to corrode inside. I would drain the fuel out again and take the petcock apart and clean it out. Most likely going to clear it up.

Also keep in mind that there could be a bad, dirty or loose connection. Even corroded. Check the start button as well. Take the battery terminals off, Clean and reconnect. All plugs, wires and connections should be checked and cleaned. Peocess of elimination.

You can jump the relay by taking a piece of wire and touching the two large wires on the relay. Do not hold the wire on the two lugs for two long. Simply put the wire across the two lugs with the two larger wires and the starter should go. If not then there may be a starter problem.

Have you checked the starter? Also the relay. You can jump the relay and see if the starter goes. If so then prob the relay. The relay is located usually under the seat by the battery.

Check the ignition switch and the plugs going to it. Get familiar with a multi meter and the continuity settings to see what’s working/not. The tester is also good to check voltage. Start going through the wiring in sections. See what has voltage and keep moving from there.

Sweet bike good luck !

This is a loose or corooded wire/connection. something that’s been missed! It could be the battery wire, the part of the wire that’s crimped to the connector at the battery or the connections to the relay etc. I would take each connector off one at a time and inspect for corrosion and put a pair of pliers or crimpers and tighten up just to be sure. Then go to the starter button on the handle bars and make sure that the contactor on the start button are good as well. Use contact cleaner as well . Process of elimination.

The two black wires on the brake lever ? A parking brake that has to be pulled in for the bike to start? I don’t think a bike of that age would have that. But double check. Also the kill switch. Simple test is to look for the two wires that kill the bike. Most are black with a white stripe and all black. You have to put a continuity tester on the two wires at the switch and see if it rings when you hit the kill switch. In order to do this properly you have to have the manual to see exactly what wires to test Have you tried what i said with the cdi ?

Welcome to QC I love bikes that need a lot of work. Be sure to post some pics and any questions/problems you have, we are here to help. Good luck!

Even though you have voltage coming to and from the cdi does not conform it’s working. Two ways to see if it’s the cdi. 1 is find a used on from another bike same type and swap it and see if that fixed it. 2 is try to dry it out and see if that works. Most cdi units go bad due to moisture. Try to put it in the oven for 10 min on 250 deg. Let it cool down and give it a shot. If the spark works then obviously a cdi replacement is needed. The heating it up is only a temp fix as it will loose spark again. This worked for me but I had to replace the cdi bc it def failed again after a day or two due to moisture re entering the cdi. As far as testing the stator and regulator, ignition coil are all within spec with an ohm meter ?

The wheel berings were bad on an old Honda that I picked up. The wabble like you said and also put a good beating on the nuts that hold the hub in place. Try not to ride until you get the bearings replaced. The damage to the axles and the big nut that holds in in place (castle nut) was pretty significant. Although the axels were salvageable the bearings and nuts were shot but not hard to replace. Lots of grease as well when reassembling.

Fuel to the carburetor does not mean fuel to the engine. I would spray starting fluid into the air intake during the cranking and see if it fires. If so then the carburetor has a blockage on the main fuel intake at the bowl/float.

Don’t be afraid to try and move the clip in all spots and try to see how it operates. Also is the float free from any hang ups? If you are confident that the carb is cleaned, properly reassembled and all good with the fuel delivery then you may have to see if the ignition is breaking down as the engine revs highter. Is there a rev limiter on that bike ?