Frank Angerano

Bottom line is your losing oil. Weather it be a leak. Wash down the entire bike including the under side and start looking. Or it’s valve seals and or bad rings. You have to see some smoke I’m sure. Like I said compression test and also pull the spark plug and see what color it is.

It’s not all it’s barked up to be this ATV thing! Looks like your well into it, how’s it going ?

I would def do that and if possible take the valuable cover off so you can see the valve springs. Take WD 40 with the red hose on the top and spray it on the stem of the valve where the seal is. There should be bubbles where the seals are if it’s leaking as you spray it. I like to use windex or a soapy solution but then you have to change the oil.

That’s odd. Have you done a compression test?

Your welcome. I wouldn’t advance the timing though. I would study the timing sequence and verify that’s its spot on.

Yep that’s the first thing that popped into my head was the brake pad smell. I used to love the smell of he brakes when I did them on my cars! Crazy but I did.

That sucks but better it happened now then when you were out and about riding !

Just because the piston or like you said timing is at TDC does not mean it’s not 180 degrees out. That’s exactly what it sounds like to me. I’ve been there and done that. Take a step back and a breather and check it again. Don’t let the frustration get to you. It’s most likely something silly that was over looked. First check that it’s not 180 out and go over the timing one more time. Pull the plug also and check the color to see if it’s black. If it were a fuel thing you could spray a drop of starting fluid into the air filter and it would start. You can try that first if you want. My guess is on the timing.

Put a piece of cardboard under the machine and see if anything shows up. Cardboard is the best for this since anytime any fluid hits it you get a dark brown spot. It’s has to be going someplace.

Ok good luck and keep us posted.

Sounds great, so the carb was in good shape then? Nothing better then washing it down And having a clean frame to work on. Where about is the oil leak coming from ?

No i don’t think you would get an odor based on the fact it’s internal but the engines have breathers so you might. I’m just not 100 percent sure. I know the clutch wont act right and you will feel a slip.

It is a huge effect of it’s a wet clutch. It can be corrected if it’s caught early.

Prob a good way to go about it. Axles are cheap enough for the next guy who gets it.

Too often the axles as far as fluids and the castle nuts that hold the hubs on are over looked. I picked up a bike that was missing the cotter pin and the same sh**, splines were wiped out! Took a look at the other ones and the previous owner used tie wire for a cotter pin! Now it’s one of the first things I look at when i buy a bike.

Could be the rear brake job you did that is giving you that smell.

Hey squirrel, another member getting ready for hunting season!! That’s great stuff, I’m doing the same. I think you have two things going on. One is the carburetor vent may be blocked. I would def take the vent line going to the carb and blow into it to see if it’s clear. If not then it has to be cleaned. You can find this hose by tracing the hoses on the carburetor. One will run if I’m not mistaken up someplace in between the gas tank and the seat or down below hanging by the swing arm. One or the other but it’s the only hose on the carburetor that’s not connected to anything. Other then that it’s prob just a simple cleaning of the carburetor and maybe checking the fuel line is clear and flowing properly. The second thing is something is either draining the battery or the battery has a dead cell and will not hold a charge. You can test for a drain on the battery I using a test light. Just disconnect the positive terminal and put the test lamp alligator clip on the positive wire and touch the test light probe to the positive terminal on the battery. If that light comes on then there is a draw on the battery. Something is staying on that shouldn’t be. The key has to be in the off position with this test. Good luck hunting this year.

The only other thing I can think of is the neutral safety switch but that should stop it from cranking as well. Try to put the old cdi back in and see what happens.

I don’t know much but it looks like Honda’s doing pretty good on this topic ????? 😂

It would pump if it has vacuum from the carb. So take the line going to the carburetor and pull it off and crank the engine. See if it pumps. You can also blow into the hose on the top of the gas cap while your cranking the engine to help it along. But if the carburetor is clogged and vacuum is not being produced then it’s not going to work.

Was the different bike the same bike ? Wiring harnesses are different from on another. So be sure of that. Have you checked all grounds and lastly changed the regulator/rectifier?

My money would be on Honda. I bet if you look at all the atv’s including the trikes that are still on the road or bikes that are sitting around in garages that are nothing more then a cleaning away from a running bike Honda would be the front runner !

Was the cdi an oem or aftermarket? Aftermarket CDI’s do not work well so keep that in mind. Was the stator coil a match as far as plugs ? Have you checked that the ignition switch is good? And have you tested the run and stop switch for any faults?

Opposite side from the fuel inlet. It’s a hose that goes from the pump to the carburetor.

Generic and I had to make some custom rubber boots to fit it up but looks factory.