Frank Angerano

Got all that. Why I was asking is to prevent you from possibly buying parts that are not needed. But that may be too late. If the engine ran out of oil the main crank/bearing should have went bad also which is located on the lower half of the engine and much more involved then taking the head/cylinder off. Your able to download manuals after 10+ posts in the forums. As far as taking the head off it’s not that difficult if your mechanically inclined but just need to be aware of the engine timing etc.

Why was the engine seized ? Water in the cylinder head ? If it’s freed up now all you would need to do is run a honer through the cylinder to clean any rough spots. I’ve seen engines where people either take the spark plug out and have not put it back in allowing water to get in. Or having a water cooled engine where a head gasket went bad bike was put away with water in the cylinder. Also are you sure the main bearing on the bike is ok ?

Can’t rebuild a carb if it’s not there ! Lol was it in the box of parts ? Don’t let the battery not being there discourage you. A lot of people snatch batteries from one bike to another. I have some old fourtrax cdi boxes laying around. Let me know if you need one. Post some pics of the bikes. I would love to see the fourtrax.

As far as the starting the bike with the clutch pulled in thats normal. Most likely solved that with the neutral sensor. You may have never knew it but that’s how it works. As far as head lights that can be traced back to the power source. Either a bad connection or fuse. Pull the connections at the lights and test for voltage. There should be three wires on your headlight. One is a ground two others are high and low beam. Start there and check for power with the head light switch on obviously.

Very cool. Love riding power lines! Had. A little trouble getting up that hill I seen. Now would the paddle tires do better then the tracks in that situation ? And what’s your over all opinion aside from the fun part about having tracks ?

It’s prob a 350. Post some pics of you can. The vin on the Yamahas like mentioned in one of our other posts is on the lower left front frame rail. As long as the carb is in good shape then only a rebuild kit may be needed. As far as the clutch cable we’ll they are cheap enough. But you can take it off and hang it up so it’s stright and spray it with WD 40 inside and let gravity do it’s job.

Yamahas left front lower frame.

Welcome to Quadcrazy. The bike will start and be fine. There is a small screw on the bottom of the bowl of the carburetor. Take that out and let the bowl drain out. And keep it going until you have clean fuel coming out of the bowl. Change the spark plug and she should fire after a bit of cranking. If its fuel injected then pull the plug and put the spark plug wire someplace safe so no sparks happen and crank the bike. It will eventually clear. Fresh plug and you should be good to go.

How far out does the clutch have to be released before it makes any change or stall? Usually a worn out clutch will show by releasing the clutch out about 3/4 way before it starts to grab and is just sloppy over all. Making the engine stall out and the bike not even trying to move makes me think something is broken off inside the clutch or a spring issue. Order a gasket in the mean time and take the side cover off the engine and take a look. Post some pics as well and we will see if anything stands out. Gasket kit on eBay or amazon. As far as permission to down load manuals you need 10 active posts in the forum but I can pull a page for you on the manual if need be to get you started on the clutch. It’s actially easy to get to the 10 posts just on the amount of interesting stuff here people comment on etc. btw how does it feel to be back at it with a bike ? Be careful!! I gave this up long ago right before I got married and got back into it a few years back once my kids were old enough to ride and it’s been a blast. It’s addicting. What did you trade for the bike ?

Yes TDC the cylinder on a combustion stroke. You will see on all my post regarding carbs. They are a pain in the as*, frustrating and can make you bat sh** crazy! Take a step back and breathe. It gets dialed in sooner or later. A lot of the times it’s later ! But you will figure it out. And all adjustments need to be done with the air box and filters all assembled. I see all the time people make adjustments with the air filter or air box cover off, take the bike for a ride and boom then when they put the air box back together it’s not right ??? It has to be adjusted as of it were ready to ride .

You are out of your mind kiddo! Burnouts on asphalt ???? Try not to kill it before you sell it!

Try a 1-3/4 turns as a starting point and go out to 2-3/4 if needed as the bikes running. Adjustments should only be made with the air filter installed and cover on as if the bike was ready to ride. As it’s running the rpms should climb as you adjust. The higher the rpm the better. As soon as the rpms start to drop STOP right there and go back a slight bit. If the bike idles high lower the idle screw a little bit and you should be set.

What year is that bike ?

Can’t see the float operating properly with that break in it but give it a shot. Just don’t burn the bike if a backfire happens with all that fuel. 🥵

Try to adjust the air/fuel mixture screw. What’s it set at now ? valve clearance should be 0.03 mm Intake and 0.17 mm exhaust based off a similar year same engine size manual.

No not the same atv by any means. Similar that’s it. The drive trains and mechanical end are close though. I found one on eBay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283288209395

Welcome to Quadcrazy. I have seen the same problem with a Chinese 110 bike. I’m not sure why but I have a question. Same situation when rolling it etc. I started the bike against a wall so it would not go anywhere and let it run for 10 minutes. After it ran for that 10 minutes and shut it off the bike was fine to roll. And it was that way for a few days. After that the same thing happened. My guess was that the oil in the engine makes the clutch plates swell up with oil from sitting causing the problem and clear up once things are spinning and centrifugal force spins out some of the soaked plates. Maybe a design flaw or poor clutch plate material (cheap) stuff maybe ? Sounds crazy but that’s my guess. My question is have you ran the bike for a while and seen a change. If not try what I said and let me know. Never solved the problem other then starting the bike every few days but that’s a little nuts.

I have to say I had this bike for one of my kids. It was a fun bike to have and work on. I sold it a while back and I still hear from the owner how his kid loves it. This is a bike that I first tried to put a cheap Chinese carburetor on and learned my lesson real quick that Chinese carbs are no good! They look great, bolt right on but do not perform well! I found an oem used carb and rebuilt/installed and BAM! the bike was like new.

Ok well you can spray the engine down with a soapy solution and crank the engine and see if any bubbles show up. Maybe a head gasket leak. If not then maybe a new piston and rings may be in order. How do you plan on putting the old carb back on with a broken float strut?

Welcome to Quadcrazy @Wrye Pipeworks That rear drive should come off exactly like the bayous come off. It’s pretty simple actually. Spray the bolts down that you will be removing before you start with some WD 40. You have to have something under the bike so the rear wheels are off the ground. Remove the rear wheels. Then disconnect the brake line and the vent hoses at the rear drum. There are four bolts that hold the drive shaft to the engine housing (bevel gear housing). Remove the four bolts. You need an open end wrench and a swivel socket with a long extension to get the four bolts off. I think they are 12mm. Then you unbolt the rear shocks and the entire rear and axle will slide out of the engine. The only thing that may be different on the prairie is a swing arm support that may need to be unbolted. There is a thin metal plate washer and an O-ring in place where the engine and axle separate. My guess is the O-ring is bad and that’s why you have the leak. HAVE A DRAIN PAN UNDERNEATH!! Oil will come out of the engine. Even if you drain the bike there will be some more. You can pick up a gasket kit from Amazon. It’s worth getting the entire kit for $38 bucks. It comes with every possable gasket you will need down the road. Putting it back together goes the same way just add grease to the splines and around the new O-ring and send it back in. You may have to spin the rear axle a little to line the splines up when sending it back into the engine. When you tighten up the axle connection at the engine use a cris cross pattern when tightening the four 12mm bolts. Top right, bottom left etc you get that right ? If you can post a few pics of the rear assembly: shocks connection points etc prior to starting and if anything stands out we will let you know. Good luck.

Well thats a good sign as far as the compression goes. Any readings on a compression test ? Should be about 150 ish

Intake 0.08 mm exhaust 0.10 mm

I will take a look but I’m almost positive it’s 0.10 mm

I hear you but a float comes with the rebuild kit for $60 bucks. No modifying of throttle cables needed and the valve adjustment and compression test costs nothing. Unless the compression comes back low after the valve adjustment! Just saying you have to think before you attack. Saves more money, time and frustration.

So let’s back up here and recap for a second. 1. It’s a Yamaha big bear with a dual actuator carburetor. 2. You added a cheap aftermarket carburetor AND eliminated the secondary throttle cable at the splitter. 3. Did all of this without checking compression and valve adjustments first? @JacobSlabach you should know by now that the work you did was completely backwards! Basics first! After that then the technical stuff. And furthermore you put a cheap aftermarket carb on a bike that will not run properly without the oem carb! You were better off finding a used oem carb and rebuilding it and putting it on the bike. Sorry if it sounds a little harsh but the only reason I’m saying this is because your smarter then that!