Frank Angerano

After new carb this started with the throttle?

That’s pretty low. Valves adjusted ?

That’s great. Nice work. Ride safe !

Chain looks way to loose. Maybe it’s stretched or a tensioner is bad.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273789613533 @Sam Shelley

Why would you change the carb and not just clean it and reinstall ? The carb you put on was it a factory carburetor or aftermarket? If the existing carburetor was just dirty due to crud buildup I would clean it up really well blow all orafices out and re install it. Set the air fuel screw and the idle to the proper setting and go from there.

To the top of the fill plug.

Plews 55001 Lubrimatic Fluid Quart Pump, Fits Standard Quart Bottles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NOvPCb3DE8ETT If there is no drain plug try this pump. It should work fine.

Nice work ! Love bringing an old bike back to life. Changing the diff fluid is not that difficult. The only thing you have to do ahead of time is oil the fill plug and drain plug with penetration spray oil a day ahead of time. It will strip otherwise. If there is no drain plug buy a small hand pump to remove the old oil. Pump it out and put in new ! Bam done.

Gotcha. Keep us posted if it does not work out we can help. Good luck.

Go through the gears and make sure they all work. Double check the fluids, look for welds on the frame for a wreck/repair. Make sure the underside of the plastics match color so you know none were replaced. There is a post here about buying a used bike. I posted the topic a little while back. You will find a considerable amount of members input there and have a good idea what to look out for when buying. Good luck.

Haha my man yes that’s a good point about posting TRASH to get a download. It makes me crazy! We will get this figured out! We always do here at Quadcrazy. You get some time and trouble shoot we will be here to give you answers. Fortunately I’ve dove head first into this bike so personally I know what’s what.

Have you done anything like rebuild the carburetor? bike been sitting ? air filter and air box all clear ?

If that’s the case then yes the bearing is shot or on its way out. I thought you were only opening the engine up because you found water. If that bearing has play up and down then the engine will knock when it runs. That is a main bearing and it’s pressed in place. You will need to have that done at a machine shop or buy a new crank assembly. I don’t think it’s called a wrist pin off the top of my head but I’ve been wrong before.

The wrist pin is what holds the piston to the connecting rod. That’s been known to wear along with the bearing over time and should be changed with the piston and rings along with the two clips that hold the piston in place. The main bearing is obviously more important and should NOT have play up and down. Side to side is ok. If that’s the case and the main has no play up and down then your good and only should soak the lower end buy over filling it with oil and letting it sit.

They are fun to work on. But suck to break down on!!!

I hear ya but I still think that the crank should be fine with a good oil soaking. Reason I’m saying this is I’ve resurrected an engine that was sitting in water. New piston, rings and soaked the lower half in oil for a week while waiting for parts. That son of a bi*** ran like hell. But if it’s not that bad to split open then go for it.

Perfectly normal. Just be patient you will get it right and learn a lot while doing it to help the next guy.

Play around with it or post it for parts on letgo or cl.

Why a full rebuild ? If it was flooded with water you can drain it all out and soak it in fresh oil for a little bit. Espically if your pulling the head anyway. As long as there aren’t any holes in the engine it may have just been under water. Did you notice if the exhaust was full of water?

This should clear things up.

It’s going to take a little time but it will get dialed in. Just keep at it. It’s a pain in the as*!

Did you adjust the float enough? In my last post I said set it was set to low, I meant high. Is it possable that it still needs a slight adjustment ? It might need a hair more. Also be careful with the back fires and that fuel in the air box. A back fire can easily lead to the leftover gas in the air box to ignite and catch fire. Have you messed around with main jet needle at all? If anything maybe you can lower the needle one notch but if it was in that position prior to working on it then I would leave it. lastly have you pulled the spark plug to see what the color looks like ? It’s a good indicator on how the bike is running.

Prob best thing you did was move that bike along to a new owner @JacobSlabach. That clutch housing on this bike is in bad shape. When that clutch looks like that It’s basically the same thing as letting your brake pads on a car run down to the metal. It destroys the rotor and metal shavings get everywhere. That primary housing should have some meat on the inside for the clutch to grab. The secondary is prob ok but the metallic shavings need to be cleaned out.

Honestly you or anyone else with any bit of basic knowledge can build a new wire harness from scratch. All it takes is the wiring diagram, a few different color highlighters and some basic #14 or #16 gauge stranded wire in various colors. About 8 feet of each color. A connector kit from amazon and electrical tape. You can bring a smaller copy if your diagram to staples or any other office supply place and ask them for a large copy, 11x17 or larger. It’s about $3 bucks for that and really makes it easier to see in large format. Highlight all the colors on the diagram to make is easier to identify. This also applies when it comes to sorting out someone else’s mess on an existing wiring harness. The key is to highlight each run of wire with individual colors. This was you know what and where things go and if something’s missing or added that does not belong.