Frank Angerano

Your best bet would be to look up the parts and compare the part number on any of the parts web sites. Best bet. @Ajmboy knows some of the parts places that list the parts by numbers Maybe he can chime in and point you in the right direction. Also take a look (long shot) but look on eBay for that parts for both years and screen shot the patsy and compare or down load the manuals here and compare parts from the manual. It may take time but worth it. Lastly I would call a Yamaha dealer ask for the parts dept and ask them to run the part numbers for both years. I’m sure they would tell you

You can get the manual after 10 contributing posts. Not some random posts just to get to 10 posts. I hope @Admin maybe changes this to 10 contributing posts over a period of time like 24 hours or something to avoid what a lot of people are doing! Random posts of garbage just to get there manual. I can personally tell you that it’s not a good look and I would be less inclined to even read the repetitive posts. If you are looking for specific pages of the manual, there are members here that will help you out with that as well as members that have bikes of that brand and will help if they can. Seems like you have your hands full with this bike and Quadcrazy knows that type of thing because we have some quality members that can help you along. Make a list prioritize the list and get after one problem at a time. My suggestion would be to look at the most expensive problem first to see if the bike is worth it. If the bike is worth it then let’s get after it and explain what you need first and before you know it you will have access to the manual and the respect of the members to help. You can also pay a membership fee and have access to what you need without the contributing posts.

Good morning from a cold and rainy 43deg NYC day!

Hahahaha that’s great. 🖐🏻🖐🏻🖐🏻🖐🏻🖐🏻🖐🏻🖐🏻 Your welcome.

You may have to take a look at your valves and rocker arms etc. It’s possible somethings going on in there. The back fire and puff of smoke out of the carb all though sounds like a timing thing but I guess it can’t hurt to have a look at the top end to make sure it’s all proper and valves are opening and closing the right way.

That shiny blue thing is a very expensive pointer thiga ma jig thats used to point out various components or things ! It has a blue neon light inside for illumination of the things you point out and a ball point for easy movement while pointing to the things! 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣

That my friend is your cam chain tensioner. It keeps pressure on the cam chain that runs up and down the engine. The middle bolt comes out and a flat head screwdriver goes in to tighten or adjust. The other two bolts hold the tensioner housing to the head itself.

Awesome. Ride safe.

Yes that’s the adjustment. Glad it’s running good. What did you wind up setting the fuel/air screw at?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273816687020 so this is what the plug looks like. It’s bike specific so look it up on eBay

When you say road are you referring to asphalt ? Quad stability on open roads like asphalt are not really in my opinion stable in any circumstance. Nothing is high speed balanced like a car tire would be. So in my experience bikes I’ve ridden on asphalt always have pulled one way or another. Your bike however may have a lighter front end which results in the front end coming up a bit when you accelerate. Try to swap the front tires and see if the condition reverses and pulls the other way. Is one tire worn more then the other ? Take a good look at the frame to see that it was never crashed and repaired like welding work done etc. look at the shocks and see that there’s are compressing properly. Things perform differently at higher speeds.

Good. So you have to double check timing and then adjust valves.

Same premise. Just to understand the head and cam removals and more important is the valve adjustment. Did you buy a set of feeler gauges ?

We had a member that had this problem. It’s a tough call working with this sort of thing. JB well does work but it’s not a permanent fix by any means. There are secondary drain plugs you can install that get installed and they have another drain plug that’s within the new plug. Much smaller hole but it works. You could install that and carefully thread it in with high heat silicone. That should hold on for a while but you have to constantly check it. Second way to do it is have a good heli arc welder weld the cracks and maybe re tap it.

That cracked part is the drain port for the hose. It looks like you can still catch a little bit to put the hose back on.

Hey @JacobSlabach take a look at these two videos. It will help you out getting familiar with that engine. The 300 and other small cc engines were pretty much built the same.

I’m confused. Can you post a pic of that idle screw ?

Adjusting the carburetor won’t be difficult. It’s just a matter finesse. What did you set the fuel air mixture screw at ? It should be in the range of 1-3/4 turns out from a snug tight position as a starting point. Then slowly turn the fuel air mixture screw out until the engine starts to rev up. Keep going until the rev starts to break up a bit or reach its best point then turn the screw back Just a hair. If the bike is revving high lower the idle screw to a happy spot and see how it runs.

@JacobSlabach if the coolant is pure and clean you will clearly see the green or whatever color coolant blobs in the oil. If it’s mostly water then you will see the standard grayish color with some of the coolant streaks in it. There is also a pressure tester cap that has a pump connection on it to pump air into the system to pressure test it.

Looks great. Was that just a standard ball and hitch connection ? 1-7/8” I like the stone henge rocks along the opposite side of that roadway.

Where did you find that number it looks like it’s short a few numbers and letters. There should be a number on the lower left front frame rail. Try to take a look and see if you missed numbers.

Wow thats great. What did you wind up doing on that. You have to be super careful with that situation to not bark the corner off. If you can’t get a screw that fits then carefully drill it out and use a small screw with a nut and lock washer.

That is the same side as the water pump correct ? If so then yes you would see coolant leaking into the engine if bolts are removed from that cover or if there is a gasket failure.

Have you checked timing ?

Did you check the gap on the pick up coil ? Your going to feel like your spinning your wheels and it gets frustrating. Keep calm and it will get sorted out. Some problems are more in-depth then others. Process of elimination.