Frank Angerano

Your going to have to try to spin the motor slightly and slowly and push the starter in at the same time. I don’t see why it should not slip right in.

Have you measured and compared the two starters old to new and checked that the gear is not longer on the new starter as well as everything matching? Something does not sound right. The starter is an easy install.

On the starter ?

The banjo bolt eBay I think I have one but mine was from a 400 not sure if it’s going to fit. The starter should not give you any trouble going in. Something has to be holding it up. Have you tried to spin the gear as you slide it in?

OG !

Great news brother. Glad we can help. Ride safe!

Wow great pics brother. Wtf is that tan sh** ? Looks like a piece of fish... The tank looks nasty. Glad it runs great, very nice work. The only thing I’m going to say about @Ajmboy is the only thing he has crusted is his reputation in this forum. You can’t have pie without crust! And this forum is the pie and he is the crust! And @Admin I love you too! Ride safe.

What’s happening is most likely your valve seals are bad and maybe your rings are going as well. The valve seals are bad allowing oil to get into the head and is prob fouling the spark plug as well. The spark plug should be a dark black color with this condition. Take a compression reading first and see what you have. Then order a new set of valve seals and gaskets. I would replace the rings as well. This should solve the problem. The piston is probably fine but while your in there might as well. I know some people don’t want to spend the extra few bucks but it’s worth it if the bike is in good condition. A good cleaning of the carburetor would be good since it’s going to come off the bike anyway during this process.

I did my engine in black on my 400 bayou and it came out really well. I did the rims silver if I remember. The rims are easy also. I used a light grade wire wheel in the drill and ran it all around. A little primer and paint and they came out great. If your leaving the tires on the rims then just use tape and news paper around the rim to protect the tire. Any paint gets on the tire a little gas on a rag takes it off.

Welcome to Quadcrazy. I’ve picked up a few bikes that have been painted over. The best process I’ve used is a pressure washer to get the paint off. Most plastics are hard to paint from a paint sticking standpoint. Unless the plastics are properly sanded and prepped my guess is the paint will blast right off. If the paint does come off and the plastics are in bad shape you can look the paint number up, buy it and have them properly sprayed for a few bucks at any auto body shop. I did it once and they came out great. I sanded and prepped them myself. The dash I’ve painted a ton of them. Put blue painters tape over the neutral and reverse lights. Sand, clean and spray black pull the tape off and boom like new. Same with the handlebars. Remove the controls, take the brake cables off and cut the grips off and do the same with sanding etc. It makes the bike look so much better. And takes about an hour. I paint the brake levers included. The only controls I take off are the lights and kill switch electrical items etc. everything else stays on even the throttle. Add some fresh grips while your there. You can buy a new seat cover and put it on yourself. When you have the plastics off wash the sh** out of the bike and get some high heat paint for the exhaust pipe.

That’s a good looking bike. You can buy the black push pin clips on amazon. They sell them by the bag.

That’s a good deal. How about posting some pics ??

Honestly I don’t think that they look bad. Sparks happen at the point of contact and the arcing is normal for that. The clip that the part sits in also could be a problem if it’s not seated correctly or bent or getting stuck. You can hit the contacts with a little sand paper and give it a shot but my guess would be the starter needs replacement. I would change the relay as well.

Dam that sucks. Hopefully you got a good deal on it. If it’s the axle hopefully it’s just that then it’s a $100 part give or take. If the differential splines are torn up as well then that’s a whole different story.

So I looked at that bike and that rear axle is a straight axle bike. I thought it may be independent suspension. There is no CV joint. So the clicking in the rear may be a spline on the axle slipping and or a bearing that’s on the way out. Yes that oil is fine. Not too much.

It’s very similar to the car engine and the slapping a valve agains the piston. So you have the right idea. But that may not even be the problem. Drain the oil and check it for metal chunks or shavings, color. Add some fresh oil and run it. Listen in on the engine like I said with the stick.

You will be able to download the manual after a few posts in the forum if there is one in the download section. There are a ton of members that have these bikes and can help. The clutch is exactly like you think. It’s centrifugal and as it spins faster it expands and grabs the housing thus moving the bike. It sounds like your capable of doing this. Plus like I said you have help here with the members. Download the manual when your allowed (after 10 posts in the forums) and study it well. Print or screen shot the pages you need and you will figure it out. Ask as many questions as you need.

Welcome to Quadcrazy! Congrats on the bike. 1. You definitely need a battery. Although the bike can self support its own spark and run, the battery by design is to support the additional features (lights, accessories) and assist the voltage upkeep. 2. The knock coming from the engine can be from a lot of things. Some are not a worry others are. This is going to sound stupid but I narrow it down using an old fashioned trick. I take a broom stick and cut it in half. I put my ear to one end and the other on different parts of the engine. You will hear it through the stick louder as you get closer. Silly as it sounds it’s a big help narrowing things down. It could be a valve adjustment, easy look it up on YouTube and you will see how easy to do. Second could be a clutch knocking as its spinning as it’s spinning at idle they tend to make a knock, also adjustable. The cam chain could be a little loose and my need a new chain tensioner or a stretched chain but that would throw the timing off a little and you would hear some backfiring possibly. Or worse and could actually be a main bearing. Process of elimination. 3. As far as the shifting goes that’s just the way it is on 4x4’s. All four wheels spinning at the same time. Just make sure it’s not in a low gear setting if there is one. I don’t think it would go more then 50mph at best. 4. I would make sure your carburetor is good and clean as it could be causing a little hesitation in the throttle. Great idea changing the plug and some fresh gas but you have to make sure the fuel is flowing properly from the gas tank and the carb is clear and adjusted right. 5. The clicking sound is most likely coming from a worn CV joint on an axle. You can buy a new or rebuilt one on eBay. Take a deep breath, make a list and tackle each item one at a time. Also check the fluids on the differentials. First things first get a battery. Amazon $50 bucks.

It’s always good to post pics for the forum. A picture is worth a thousand words. Plus you should be proud of your work! The next guy with the same machine with the same problem will have something to look at down the road.

Nice work @JacobSlabach any pics to share?

You are welcome. Ride safe.

It has a manual shift transmission but not a manual clutch. When you put the bike in gear the bike will sit and not move. When you hit the throttle the bike starts to move ? That’s the centrifugal clutch expanding and grabbing. So you can’t push start it.

Simple test is as the starter is running/stuck I would unplug the wires going into the starter solenoid and see if the starter stops. It’s the small plug going into the solenoid, If it does stop the starter from spinning then maybe the starter button itself is getting stuck. If your handy with a tester you can do a continuity test.

I would take the pull starter cover off and try to spin the engine just to see if it’s all good. Might as well repair the pull cord while you’re there. I don’t think towing it would be a good to see if the engine spins. Stick with bench testing and replacing the starter maybe and go from there. But having the pull cord work is a really good back up in case the battery dies. So if the bikes worth it then spend the money.

My guess is the starter relay is getting stuck. I would start there because it’s a cheap enough route to go at first.