DirtDemon
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Everything posted by DirtDemon
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Your words are too kind sir.
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If you don't already have one, get a multi-meter or even a test light. Start at the battery and check all the curcuits to find where you lose current. Check for power at the key switch, the kill switch, the coil, the starter and any possible point between those things and the battery. The problem is most likely in your primary electrical system somewhere(battery, cables,switches) not in the secondary ignition,(cdi, coil, stator). Now that is not to say that you didn't fry them too, but you need to get power to the bike before you can diagnose any further problems. Like you were already advised, fuses and fusable links are the first thing to check. Outlander suggested you check the primary battery cables, also a good thought, if the cables are fried, they will act like a resistor and drain the battery. Google "voltage drop test" this will tell you how to check some of your electrical circuits. Also check for wires with melted insulation, you could have over heated a wire and created a dead short somewhere. I merged this thread with your original thread you posted last month.
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That's exactly what I always hear too.
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I guess I could have made that a little clearer. That is what I meant, cut off the old mount from the frame and make new ones. I wouldn't even think of welding on the shock itself, the heat could very easily ruin the shock.
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You may be able to loosen the clamps on either side of the carb and twist it in place to remove the float bowl. If you can get the float bowl off without removing the carb, then you can get to the float valve. It is a tiny cylindrical object with a pointed rubber tip attatched to the floats near the pivot pin. Look at the diagram that atv mechanic posted for you it should help you identify the parts you are looking for. Have you tried tapping the side of the float bowl, the floats could just be stuck. If you do have to remove the bowl, look around in side a bit an make sure every thing looks clean and in good order.
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I missed the part about fuel flowing out. Guess I should go to bed now. Most likely a stuck float causing that, get your screwdriver.
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The angry look.....lol, that's why I don't want like wife to watch me ride. The last time I ate it, she had to drive me to the doctor, she was none too happy, I wan't even alowed to whine.
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Got my KFX 450 shocks today. They are only about 3/8" longer than the stockers, but the top of the shock is too wide for the upper mount. No big deal though, I anticipated that, I will just have to cut the old ones off and weld on new ones.
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The fuel line should connect to a fitting that comes out of the side of the carb just above the float bowl, probably toward the rear of carb. If you have it hooked up correctly, and it still isn't getting fuel, try tapping on the side of the float bowl with a screwdriver handle, as the floats could be stuck. If it still doesn't work, you may need to disassemble the carb and clean it. If there was any fuel residue left in the carb, it may have gummed up the carb. There is also the possibility that the carb was never the issue. Do a compression test, just to see what it reads.
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I think they call that as* over tea kettle or something. How did you manage to get your legs between, the front tires and the nerfs, that must have hurt a little.
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Nice pics, love those broad open turns, no brakes just more gas!!!
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Me too, I just wish it came with a counterballancer.
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Do the brakes work any better with the double lines? It definately looks cooler. -
That is quite possible, Oregon is not too far. Hopefully I will have the Lazytrike finnished by then.
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Posted a short video of the 500 R in the ATV video section.
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Exactly, the clutch on my R doesn't like to disengage completely because the cable shaft and push rod are a little worn, and if I don't give it a little gas when I put it in gear it dies. I should have fixed it last time I had it apart, but I was impatient and didn't want to wait for new parts to be shipped. Besides it is getting better as the clutch plates wear a bit.
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Thanks Bot.
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That is solid advise Bot, especially for someone who does not ride regularly. I think the guys are right, you need to disassemble and inspect and clean the carb. Make sure you COMPLETELY disassemble the carb. There are some carbs that are more complex than others and have several small passages that can become clogged and cause problems. Also make sure the fuel petcock is clear.
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Pull off the clutch cover and inspect the clutch, I think the springs that keep the clutch from engaging may be worn or broken or something. It sounds like when you put it in gear, the clutch is engaging too soon and killing the motor. I will say this just incase someone gets confused, I know it is an automatic, it has a centrifugal clutch, not a manual clutch.
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To start, I would visually inspect the starter gear and flywheel. If you can't see anything obvious just by looking at it, then turn it over while it is exposed and see if you notice anything. Pull the spark plug boot off so it doesn't start while you have the side cover off. The problem could also be timing related, check the flywheel key, if it sheared off then the plug will spark at the wrong time and could cause combustion too early and stop the motor from turning.
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Looks good man, I just got some Burgard +2 arms for my R the other day, just waiting on the shocks now. Let us know how they work out for you.
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Look through this site, you may find some helpful info, it says they are supposed to have a shop manual soon. Tecate Connection
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I believe service honda can get hondaline parts. If they can't find it, or our resident trike expert MWKE can't help you then I have another idea as a last resort. I don't want to send you to another forum if I don't have to, but I know a guy who can probably find what you need.
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I have had the LTR wide open in top gear, I suppose that is somewhere in the mid 70's. According to my math, the 500R is good for about 95mph, I don't know if she will ever see that though, at least not with me on it. Well, maybe in the dunes.
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If there was gas in it all winter while it was sitting, then the fuel could have gelled up and clogged up the carb, take it off, take it apart completely, and clean it. However, you say that if you start it in gear, you can ride it. If it runs good when you do that, it probably isn't your carb. Maybe something electrical, is there a switch that is supposed to keep it from starting in gear? Have you always been able to start it while it was in gear, or did that start when you started having this problem?
