Frank Angerano

Yes for sure. Always a good idea to do a secondary oil change after a job like that. Plus I like to add grease to the lobes of the cam and valve rockers etc and run my finger around the cylinder with a little grease as well. This will relieve some initial start up friction.

Electrical will prob be fine. My guess is they ran it out of oil.

Wow 😮 wtf! Thats insane, great work so far brother.

I really don’t think there is anything else to change!! Nice work. Let’s just hope this is the problem.

Nice work. Ride safe brother.

Only shortcut is to be a paid member. You will get to 10 posts. Just don’t do what other dummy’s do and start to post dumb stuff looking to get to 10.

They both should fit. I just looked on amazon and there are a few. SPM Dual Stage Air Filter for Yamaha Timberwolf 250 Big Bear 350 Moto-4 350 250 Kodiak 400 Replace 1YW-14451-00-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GNYEVYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l-T.CbBP44W4B

Haha I love it. Not sure where your from but pouring here also in NY. Make sure the valve cover bolts come off and go back there respective holes. There should be a few different lengths. Post some pics as you go.

What the heck might as well do a little custom work. That’s one of the best things about working on these older bikes. You can modify, customize etc and not worry if it gets screwed up. eBay has a ton of stuff which is great. Now the wait starts for shipping!!! Hate that part! Good luck with the work.

That’s great news. Ride safe.

The readings seem low. Did you review the manual to see the acceptable range ? And the pick up coil readings ?

Could have been a conversation kit added or a change over year where the manufacturer added disc brakes. But yes the premise is the same with regard to bleeding.

Should be just a breather hose for the head assembly. Some of them ran to the air box but I don’t know if you still have that in place due to the type of set up on that kart.

Ultrasonic cleaners are great but they don’t always get the heavy stuff out. You still need to get in there to clean the jets/small ports out.

Nice work so far. That vent line coming off the carb is just that, a vent line. It usually wraps right up by the gas tank under the plastics. There should be another one coming off the bottom of the carburetor bowl and that one is routed down the frame to the bottom of the bike. The vent hose on the gas cap is usually stuck in a hole on the dash board and does not connect to anything other then the cap. The air duct your referring to is probably an aftermarket snorkel that should have extended up in front of the handle bars. It’s for riding in deep water that allows air to continually flow into the air box. That’s my guess anyway. Post some pics and we will let you know for sure. That plug your adding back to the dash I see you figured out, nice work. Hopefully the new plug will wires right up and your good to go. Do you have the wire diagram for that bike ?

I’m confused. What are you looking for exactly?

I hope it’s something along those lines and not deeper like a main Bering. I would start to look at a few different parts on eBay just to get the ball rolling and see what’s out there. Taking the valve cover off is not a big job. Plastics and gas tank go first and then you can pull the cover. Good luck and keep us posted.

Welcome to Quadcrazy, I had a similar problem in my bayou 400. The knock turned out to be a worn out cam journal. If your problem is the same this is what I did. I had to pull the valve cover off exposing the cam. You will see the opposite side of the cam, the end without the sprocket. It will look worn discoloring and scored. Also the valve cover itself will look worn where the cam sits. The knocking is the back end of the cam flopping around. The valves don’t operate right and I lost power. Maybe this is the same problem as yours maybe not. It took me a little while to isolate the knock but either way the engine had to come apart just to start looking in the engine. I wound up finding a used head and cam in excellent condition and installed it with fresh valve seals and I was good to go. I thought the reason this happened was because the oil pump was failing and maybe not pumping oil to the head. I checked it and no problem. But double check yours.

That great. I’ve walked into so many places and no was the answer. Then you walk into the right guy that says yea I can splice that! Thats great news brother. Little by little, keep at it. Keep us posted and the pics coming!!

Forget by hand and rotating the motor. Testing on the stator can be done without rotating the engine. Ohms tests done on a standing stator phase to phase and then each phase to ground. First test Phase to phase (each wire from the stator) should be equal when you test from one phase to another and do all of them. They should be pretty close to each other on an ohms setting. The manual will tell you what the range should be. Second test: Take one phase of the stator (one wire) on the tester and the other tester probe to ground. You should get no reading on the tester. Do that for all three wires. If you do then there is a short within the coils on the stator. No need to test any more, it’s bad! Third test Pick up coil put the tester on ohms and on the two wires of the pick up coil. You should get a reading. Check the manual and it will show you what the acceptable range is.

Stator or starter is bad ? And the stator you tested phase to phase and. Then each leg to ground ? If so what did you get ?

Ok when you get the new stator and its installed let’s recap and go over it all again. Did you find the year ? And if so a wire diagram ?

I’m confused. You did all this work and your not getting a charge? That’s strange, what kind of testing on the charging system are you doing? Have you checked the rectifier/regulator ? First off I would locate the vin# and do a check this way you can find the exact year. Tons of web sites to check for free. Honestly I would put a new stator/pick up coil in. I use a brand called Caltric on eBay or amazon. About $75 bucks. They have always fit and worked well. You should also check that everything is turning inside the engine in order to produce current at the coil. When the cover is off spin the engine and make sure rotation is good.

Have you tried raising the rear wheels off of the ground to see if it revs?

Awesome. Let us know brother. Curious to see how this works out.