Ajmboy

Aha...for some reaosn I thought the question was it belt driven. Now, from personal experience, when you have belt slippage or issues, low end will not work.

No problem..

These are tech tips compiled fron various posts on various boards, very useful information for new owners! · When changing oil take the fill plug out to let the frame drains flow faster and let the drain for ten minutes or so to get it all out. It also helps totip the quad on its side to aid drainage and prevent oil from running between engine and skid plate. · Also tip the quad when reinstalling tranny filter. Gravity will keep the filter in the bolt. Don't ever force it! · Use a 6 point wrench on the aluminum drain plugs to keep from rounding them off. · Always use antiseaze on the transmission drain bolt. · Do not over fill your quads oil . Even a couple of ounces will blow out all over your air filter. · You have to do the engine stud updates now, do not put it off . If one of these bolts come out you will pay dearly. Its not that hard and kind of fun (at least for me) · Make sure to check your battery connections because if they are loose the ecm with cause all sorts of weird running problems. And load test the battery once in a while to be sure of quick starts and prevent plug fouling. · Use star lock washers between your battery terminals and you battery · Don’t turn the idle down because you think its idling to fast. 2200 to 2300 is where it should be. If you have trouble starting it and it starts easier if you give it just a little gas chances are its to set to low. · If you run in mud a lot turn your headlights off. If they are caked with mud they will heat up the housings and deform the lenses. · If you need to get the flywheel off and dont have a puller cruise over to your local stihl chainsaw dealer ,the puller they use on the larger chainsaws works on our cannons. They did mine for free but I purchased the puller anyway afterwards. Part number is 1106 890 4501 A · When starting let it run for at least 2 minutes to burn the raw fuel off the plug before shutdown to help prevent fouling it. · Dont panic and overthink the problems if they occur , I thought my engine blew chucks while hauling the mail down a dirt road and it backfired and came to a stop. Turned out just a plugged fuel filter from a dirty gas can. Im glad they are see through. · Replace those steel fender screws with some stainless steel ones(couple bucks) · Buy a D&M kit the basic one is only $300 and if you ever have a problem you will save countless hours asking questions, hunting dealers, and generally being in a bad mood when you could have diagnosed your problem in just a few minutes. That also goes for getting the free service and parts manuals available on this page. · Inside the fuel tank fitting is a stainless steel strainer ,mine was plugged tight with the nastiest brown goo. While your checking it it is a good time to install new o-rings on the fitting shut off valve. a size r-01 seems to fit good. The one that swells is not the one you can see when you disconnect the quick coupler. · There is a mini tach from Track Master Inc Part number tr99 that you can install on the quad to check your idle speed if your don’t want to buy the D&M kit. It installs without cutting into the wiring harness because it is a self contained ,waterproof with inductive pickup that you just need to wrap the wire around the coil to make it work. · Don't leave the key in the on position, for some reason it draws down the battery · Use Di-electric grease on all of the electrical connections. Just pull the connectors apart and fill them with the stuff. · If you have access to the Maintenance & Diagnostics kit, reset the throttle position and idle regularly - I do it about every oil change. · Keep an eye on the rear hubs, they tend to loosen up and they will strip out · Check the swingarm buffer (chain slide) often, I've seen a few that where never checked and the chain had eaten holes in the swingarm. · Pull the a-arms and grease up the bushings really good once in awhile, they don't have much grease from the factory and bind up. · Pull the swingarm and clean/grease up the pivot bearings good at least once a year, the seals tend to leak and the bearings will rust. · For oil changes, tip the quad on it's side to aid drainage and prevent oil from running between engine and skid plate. · Reroute the tranny vent line up by the airbox if you play in deep water. · Do replace your worn tie rod ends with something other than stock. · Never throw away old parts. · Always keep fuel filters and gas line quick connect orings on hand. · Always use locktite on sprocket bolts and visually inspect before every ride · NevRDull and a fine ScotchBrite pad works wonders on that state of the art ALUMINUM frame. · Counter sink your tranny filter bolt so it will help self centering the filter · Always pull your fuse if you are working anywhere near your fuel pump you will short it out if you touch it with something · If you install nerf bars make sure you lube the holes in the frame with lots of antisieze or you will never get the bars out because they will gall in. · Dont let morons on your quad that dont have a clue how to start it because chances are they will get out of sight and stall it and try starting it like their quad and crank the snot out of it while pumping the throttle "personal experience"

Carburetor Theory Whether carbureted or injected, the fuel system is designed to provide the optimum mixture of air and fuel to the engine under varying conditions. This optimum air/fuel ratio (do not call it the fuel/air ratio!) is called the stoichiometric ratio and in theory is approximately 14.7 parts of air to 1 part gasoline (14.7:1) based on weight, not volume. However, this air/fuel ratio must be modified under different atmospheric and running conditions. A ratio numerically higher than 14.7 would be considered a lean air/fuel mixture, numerically less than 14.7 would be considered a rich mixture. There are several principles of physics that affect the design of carburetors. Among these are; a liquid will take the shape of the container it is in liquids are not compressible liquid in two containers joined with a passageway will be at the same level if the atmospheric pressure above them is the same air will flow from a high pressure area to a low pressure area to try and equalize the imbalance air flowing through a restriction in a passageway (the venturi of a carburetor) will increase in speed and decreases in pressure at the point of restriction a liquid can be atomized and vaporized There are three basic types of carburetors, fixed venturi, mechanical slide and constant velocity (CV). Despite their differences, they all use the Venturi Principle which states that air flowing through a restriction will increase in speed and decrease in pressure. It is the decrease in pressure in the carburetor venturi that allows atmospheric pressure to push fuel into the venturi through passageways that are machined into the carburetor body. These passageways contain jets that control the amount of flow through them. In order to burn properly and efficiently, the fuel must be first atomized (broken down into a fine mist) and then vaporized, that is, changed from a liquid to a vapor. When the air/fuel mist enters the combustion chamber, engine heat helps vaporize the fuel. However, when the engine is cold the fuel does not vaporize as completely, so we must supply more fuel so that enough of it is vaporized for the engine to run. This is the purpose of the cold start mechanism (commonly called the choke) used on carbureted engines. Carburetor Cold Start Mechanisms There are currently two type of cold start mechanisms used in carburetors, the choke plate and the enrichener. The choke plate pivots to block off some of the incoming air, while the enrichener adds more fuel. Both methods result in the same condition, that is, a rich mixture in the neighborhood of 3:1. A fuel injection system does this by automatically increasing injector duration, which is how long the injector sprays fuel into the combustion chamber. The longer the injector duration, the more fuel is sprayed into the engine and the richer the mixture. Running a carbureted engine that is at or close to operating temperature with the cold start mechanism on will result in a rich mixture when it isn't needed and can result in fouled spark plugs. Carburetor Circuits Carburetors are mechanical/hydraulic/pneumatic devices that have several functions. They allow us to change engine speed by allowing more or less air/fuel mixture to enter the engine, they help atomize the fuel for better vaporization, and they provide varying air/fuel ratios under different throttle positions. For an engine at operating temperature, there are three basic fuel circuits. Pilot Circuit Also known as the idle circuit or the slow speed circuit, it controls the air/fuel mixture while the engine is idling and up to about 1/8 throttle opening (it also flows fuel at larger throttle openings but the effect is negligible). Because of the small amount of fuel that is required at idle speeds, the pilot fuel passageway is restricted by the pilot jet. Carburetor jets (of any type) are usually made out of brass and come in different sizes. A number is stamped on the jet during manufacturing, the larger the number the larger the opening in the pilot jet and the richer the mixture would be. Because of the very small size of the opening in a pilot jet, is can easily be blocked by dirt, rust, stale fuel deposits or other debris. When this happens, the engine will not idle properly and the carburetor(s) will have to be removed, disassembled and cleaned. Mid-range Circuit As we open the throttle to accelerate, the carburetor allows more air to enter the engine, and there must be a corresponding increase in the amount of fuel flow. In most cases, this is accomplished by the use of a slide and jet needle, whether it is a mechanically operated slide or a vacuum operated slide. The jet needle raises and lowers with the slide and fits into a brass tube called the needle jet. Do not get confused between the two, the jet needle moves up and down while the needle jet is stationary in the body of the carburetor. The jet needle is tapered so that as it is raised in the needle jet, there is more space between the two and more fuel is allowed to flow. This circuit regulates the air/fuel mixture primarily from 1/8 throttle to about 3/4 throttle. Main Circuit As the throttle is opened approaching full throttle, the carburetor allows even more air to enter the engine and the main jet now controls the amount of fuel that is supplied. As with the pilot jet, it is usually made of brass, comes in different sizes and has a number stamped on it. Again, the larger the number, the larger the opening and the more fuel is supplied for a richer mixture. Larger main jets are often required with changes to the intake and exhaust of the engine. The opening in a main jet is much larger than a pilot jet and is less likely to be blocked or restricted. This circuit regulates the air/fuel mixture primarily from 3/4 throttle to wide open throttle.

I believe it's a belt, was that the question?

I saw this article and thought it was interesting. You can follow it here: ATV Electronics series: Part 1 - ignition systems - - ATV at Off-Road.com

Few things can be as frustrating as diagnosing electrical systems. After all, there are seldom obvious signs of failure - I mean, you just can't see if electrons are flowing or not. Sure, every now and then you find a corroded connection, frayed wire, or burn looking electrical thingamajig. But how can you tell if your CDI or stator is bad? It's a real drag to have spent $100 or more on a new coil only to find that your safety tether had a bad connection. The key to effectively troubleshooting electrical systems is to have a solid understand of their operation. Only then can one efficiently narrow down what the faulty component is. To aid in that process, the technical folks at ORC have decided to put together a three-part "electrical systems" series to cover the three most basic systems of the typical ATV: ignition, charging, and starting. To kick off the series, the first installment handles the most important: ignition. Of course, the primary purpose of the ignition system is to create a spark. Years ago, a fellow named Kettering came up with a pretty good way to make a spark. Very basically, his invention consisted of two sets of finely wound copper wire - commonly referred to as the ignition "coil" -.that when powered with electricity on one winding would create a sudden jolt, or spark, of electricity on the other when the electrical power is interrupted. To keep up with a spinning engine, the electrical power is switched on and off via a contact switch that's controlled by a cam lobe driven by the engine. Pretty darn simple, and pretty darn easy to diagnose with basic tools. However, this conventional "breaker" or points-type ignition had reliability issues and was limited to low rpm applications. Enter the age of high tech electronics: integrated circuits, transistorized ignitions, and CDI... The good news is that CDI, or capacitor discharge ignition, was all that points-type ignitions weren't - they had no moving or wearing parts, could produce a heck of a spark, and could run very high speed. Bad news is that the ignition system now became a "black box", both literally and metaphorically. No spark? Might as well start swapping parts until you the spark magically reappears. Not a bad proposition for a dealer that has parts sitting on the shelf he can try with no obligation. But to spend a hundred non-refundable dollars on simply a hunch is a tough pill to swallow. Schematic of a typical CDI ignition system Fortunately, we can break down the operation of the CDI to some basic circuits - the guzzinta's and the guzzouta's (inputs and outputs). Whereas the points-type ignition has only two circuits (power and ground), the CDI has 5 primary circuits. On the guzzinta side we have the obligatory duo of power and ground, but with the added complexity of a circuit to tell the CDI when to fire (trigger circuit), and another to tell if to fire (kill circuit). What's left is the only circuit on the guzzouta side: the power to the ignition coil (fire circuit). So let's discuss those circuits and their possible failure modes. The CDI's ground (DC negative) is always connected and provides the connection back to the engine's own voltage ground point or reference, which is the same reference the spark plug uses when creating a spark. The key piece of info here is that wherever the CDI makes its ground connection has to be essentially the same ground reference as the spark plug - make sure there's clean metal all the way between the two connection points, and virtually no resistance (ohms). If the CDI makes its ground connection at the frame up near the gas tank, be assured that the circuit from there is good all the way back the cylinder head. Don't rely on a ground connection through engine mounts. They can be intermittent, dirty, corroded, rubber-bushed, or painted. Proper grounding would dictate a ground strap from the engine directly to the wire harness. Next thing we need is a way to power the CDI. Some CDI's are powered by 12vdc from the machine's electrical system, but most others generate the requisite electrical power from an exciter coil underneath the flywheel. As the magnet on the flywheel passes the exciter coil, electrical current is generated and in the case of a Capacitor Discharge Ignition or CDI, that charge is stored temporarily in a capacitor for a split second until the CDI is told to fire. Since the CDI is already tied to ground, there's only a single wire connecting the exciter coil to the CDI. To check this voltage produced by the exciter is tricky because it requires the engine to be turning. An electric starter can produce the necessary crank rotation, but diagnosis by means of kick starting is difficult since the output voltage varies with engine speed. To check, use a digital voltmeter (DVM) and set to AC scale. Connect one DVM lead to the exciter output wire, and the other to case ground. Most shop manuals will list a minimum AC voltage for both running and starting. Be CAREFUL when testing, the output from the exciter coil can reach 200 volts! The power stored in the CDI's internal capacitor needs to be put to work, but the key to proper engine performance is doing it at the right time. That's where the pulse generator comes into play. Again, underneath the flywheel lies yet another magnet and coil combo, but the sole purpose of these two is to precisely identify to the CDI the position of the crankshaft. That is, it tells the brain box where the piston is and therefore when to fire. Basically, the CDI waits around for the pulse generator to tell it that the piston has just hit some point before TDC, and then waits the appropriate amount of time (dependent on rpm and spark advance) before energizing the guzzouta circuit that sends power to the well-recognized ignition coil. This circuit is diagnosed similarly to the exciter coil above, but instead connect your DVM to the pulse generator output. The voltage is much less and should be listed in your manual. The last CDI circuit is the "kill circuit" which is how the CDI knows to quench the spark and kill the engine. Typically this circuit is switched to ground, and some CDI's require this circuit to be closed, while others require it to be open for engine shutdown. Most safety tethers, kill switches, and ignition switches utilize this circuit to control engine operation. The easiest way to troubleshoot a no-spark malfunction is to pull the spark plug and check for spark by unplugging this circuit. If no spark, then connect a ground wire directly between engine ground and this circuit (on the CDI box side). If still no spark, the problem is likely with another circuit. To complete the whole ignition system, we still need to produce enough voltage to jump a spark across a 1mm gap, inside a running engine. This part of the system hasn't changed much over the years - it's still a good ole ignition coil with a small wire going in, and fat one going out. It's a little different since we no longer have 12vdc going in, but rather nearly 10x that!. It also requires a good ground connection so insure that there's no corrosion, mud, or paint separating the mating connections. Although it's easy to blame coils for electrical problems since it's difficult to test (resistance checks are not always reliable), they are not commonly known to be failure prone. More likely is a bad spark plug cap or connection to the fat plug wire. With some coils passing as much as 60,000 volts make sure your plug wire and cap has no exposed breaks or possible leak paths that water can penetrate. When the coil fires it will seek the path of least resistance, and if there's a way for 60,000 volts to get to ground easier than through a compressed air-fuel mixture (spark plug gap), it'll take it. And water does that job quite nicely.

Just following up on this thread. I had a similar issue and found that my battery was weak. I replaced the battery and problem solved. This was ofcourse during the cold winter months. You should also check to make sure your starter is not over drawing from your battery.

I'm thinking 1-2 jet sizes from stock, but not 100% sure. Maybe check with the manufacturer. * Removed your other thread as it was a duolicate.

Helmet and whatever outdoor clothing..jacket, jeans, etc. If it's real cold, I wear a snow suit or ski suit with helmet and heated visor. When it's snowig...here's ny gear: More Pictures in my gallery..

I would go with the Dynojet recommendations for that engine. As long as you can access the adjustment screw, you should be able to do it with the carb on. You are right, the instructions tell you to use a flat head: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/Q623.pdf

The Haro Bullster Street ATV Quad Article By: Robert Boop Want to go for an exhilarating lap around downtown? The Haro Bullster sports a brand new approach to the ATV quad formula. The gravelled road has been abandoned for rubber-gripping tarmac. Our aim has been to conceive and develop a full-focused street quad. With the Bullster our vision has materialized. From its compact fuel-injected Euro 3 approved four-stroke engine to its fully independent suspension and rear axle differential, there are no compromises. The shocks are fully adjustable. Disc brakes front and back. Free to choose components from the very best suppliers worldwide, we offer the ultimate in motoring excitement and accessibility. A race quad for the road, the Bullster still has a price tag that will leave money to top up the fuel tank. Engine: Four stroke single cylinder Cylinder: Light alloy cylinder Bore/Stroke: 90 mm/78 mm Displacement: 497 cc Power: 38 hp (21 hp) @ 6500 rpm Torque: 40 Nm @ 4500 rpm Valves per cylinder: 4 Timing system: SOHC, chain drive Compression ratio: 10 Max rev.: 7500 rpm Cooling system: Liquid cooled with pump, fan Fuel system: EFI Lubrication: Wet sump Ignition: Electronic CDI with TPS Anti-vibration: Countershaft Clutch: Automatic centrifugal clutch Transmission: CVT-V belt drive & automatic speed variator and park, reverse Final drive: Shaft drive Engine brake: Yes Start in gear: Yes Emission: Euro 3 (2002/51/EC)/2006 US EPA Drivetrain: Final drive: Shaft with rear diff. Transmission: P/R/N/D Drive system: CVT EBS (Engine Braking System): Optional Suspension: Front suspension: Independant, double A-arm, 5 stage preload settings, Option: adjustable oil/gas-damped, continuously preload settings. Rear suspension: Independant, double A-arm, 5 stage preload settings, Option: adjustable oil/gas-damped, continuously preload settings. Brakes: Front & rear: Dual 200 mm hydraulic disc Contributing partners: prototypes by CEIIA. Tires: Front: 195/45R15 Rear: 215/40R16 Dimensions/Capacities: Wheelbase: 1280 mm Dry Weight: 270 kg Fuel capacity: 17 L Ground clearance: 137 mm Instrumentation/Features: Gauge Type: Digital Speedometer/Odometer: Standard Tachometer: Standard Tripmeter: Standard Hourmeter: Standard High beam indicator: Standard Gear indicator: Standard Fuel gauge: Electric Warning lights: Hi temp/Oil pressure

I like that idea, but then people with only one atv cannot enter the contest..

Welcome back!

Well, It's that time of year again! I've updated my page, check it out: Ajmboy 's ATV Page: Looking For the BEST Ride! QUADCRAZY ATV Community If you guys want a quick and easy way to change your profile layouts, use the myspace converter: MySpace Converter Then paste the myspace converted code into your advanced css box in your design section. Make sure you use regular myspace codes, not the 2.0. It converts it as best as possible, but beats doing it color by color. Any myspace profile site should work. Here's a bunch of Christmas Themes: Christmas Myspace Layouts, Christmas Layouts For Myspace, Myspace Christmas Layouts, Premade Christmas Myspace Layouts

I didn't realize this, but there is a whole section in the Photo Gallery: Landscape ATV Riding Photos QUADCRAZY ATV Community A couple that I liked:

Yeah you can get some crazy deals, like the desktop I'm on now for $400! I love this 19" widescreen monitor that came with it! I posted my purchase in the thread below: http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/general-talk-anything-goes/2584-black-friday-shopping.html

Got this in the mail today. It's good until December 15th. Free shipping on orders over $99! ATV Parts, ATV Tires, Dirt Bike Parts & Motocross Gear - Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Spend $100 get $10 off CODE: #2501 Spend $150 get $20 off CODE: #2502 Spend $300 get $50 off CODE: #2503 Spend $500 get $100 off CODE: #2504 Happy Holidays!

Does he have the GPScape? 2009 FourTrax Rincon Innovations - Honda Powersports

Welcome to QUADCRAZY! What type of Suzuki (I'm assuming) atv are you riding?

LOL...is that a Christmas Ball? Or a large Mistletoe...

This was taken a couple of years back on top of a reservoir damn.

Nice site. I like the look up by atv and tire size checker. Keep us posted on specials.

I can't believe that. Do you have any clue on who did this? Do you live in an area where this happens allot? What did they take off it, I see some plastic missing. How old where the people who did it? You need to get a shotgun or something! :shoot: