bigbear93

does it have a manual clutch or semi-auto / slip clutch?

if you scuff sand it with a fine grit, (id say 320+) sandpaper, clean them with technical grade isopropyl alcohol or acetone, and wipe them dry with a clean, low lint cloth, you should have no problems painting them. I would advise using a paint with flex agents, such as Krylon fusion, regular rattle can will crack and flake off as soon as the plastics start flexing

maybe try bypassing the ignition switch and see if you are getting power

have you checked the fuses, relays, tried any other electrical troubleshooting?

sounds like who ever rebuilt it either didnt adjust the valves right, or the timing is a hair off

The "final gear" right behind the engine runs the same type of oil but is its own reservoir, drain it by pulling the bottom left bolt on the rear of the casing and fill it from the fill plug on the top as you would a differential, just until it reaches the bottom of the threads. I'm not sure what plug exactly you are referring to hut I hope that helps As for the filter, I would recommend changing it if you don't know how long since last changed. But after that, as long as it isn't damaged you can clean it with some solvent and a soft bristled brush. Just let it dry before you reinstall it. Just change it every second or third oil change depending on the interval

I know next to nothing about CVTs but I do under stand slip clutches enough to know that if its idling too high the clutch wont fully disengage and that could cause it to grind

It sounds like its forcing air out the intake which on a car would mean your timing was 180* out. I don't know enough about single cylinder engines to give you a more accurate diagnosis other than to double check your timing and make sure your valves aren't sticking. Also take a close look at that intake boot and make sure it isn't cracked or torn.

Just reread the op you said it was puffing black smoke out the intake? That sounds like a a stuck valve and/or a timing issue

I beg to differ, I'm an aircraft mechanic and parts do mysteriously crap out, all the time.

My taotao 250 uses about 3/4qt for both the engine and gearbox. I use valvoline ATV 10w40

Looks a lot like the taotao I have in my backyard

I dug a little more into the service manual and I figured out the neutral light issue, that one is a bad relay.

for some reason i didnt see that this had posted the first time and double posted it, how do i delete it?

i just purchased a very used 93 big bear 350, after a few nights of rebuilding the carb, adjusting the brakes and changing fluids it seems to run just fine after the last two owners let it sit for who knows how long. im working my way through the wiring now, and have a few issues: the reverse indicator light stays on constantly, and the neutral will not come one at all. neutral bulb works, i tested it with a 9v. i put a multimeter on it and i seem to be getting between 11.7 and 12.3 volts on both the brown and the sky blue wires with key on and engine off, and yes, the gearbox is in neutral and the switch inside seems to work. just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if anyone knows what might be my problem. im am going to continue to big through manuals and schematics and see what comes up

not trying to offend your intelligence, but have you adjusted the idle screw? i just rebuilt the carb on my 93 and im still trying to get the idle set right. also, have you checked the fuel line? i blew mine out with an air compressor, cut it in half and installed a universal fuel filter (~$4 at AutoZone) with a clear casing so its real easy to see fuel flow. i also replaced the stupid spring clamps with band clamps because they were worn out.

as far as i know, the engine and gearbox are oiled separately from the transfer case, im new to this particular model though.

i just purchased a very used 93 big bear 350, rebuilt the carb, changed all the fluids and got it running, everything seems to be working fine, but the reverse light stays on constantly, and the neutral light refuses to come on, all the bulbs work, i checked them with a 9v battery and some jumper wires. i have the service manual and am trying to make sense of the wiring schematic, but im not an electrician. i have tested voltage at all the wires for the lights and im getting 11.7 - 12.3v at both the brown and the blue. i don`t know if there is something im missing or if a previous owner rewired something wrong. seems to me though that one of those wires should be a ground and i should just get continuity, not voltage i am working my way through the harness, disconnecting, cleaning, greasing, and reconnecting everything and so far everything looks good, just dirty.

i just got a 93 big bear in sorry shape, on mine, the holder for the inline fuse under the seat on the right side is torn and occasionally works loose. when its loose, i have no lights w/ key on, but as soon as i push it together it works fine. just to clarify, yours is turning over, but it wont fire?