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Frank Angerano

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Everything posted by Frank Angerano

  1. I run a half pound less of what the rating is just for comfort. Takes a little bit of the rough ride out. I also use nitrogen in instead of air. Nitrogen has no pressure change through the seasons cold or hot so my tire psi always stays the same.
  2. It’s possible that the float is set to low but that would also result in the overflow also leaking. The small hose that’s attached to the bottom on the carburetor would have gas coming out. If you made any adjustments to the needle my guess would be you need to lower it. When you put the slide back in the carburetor did it go in properly? And is it sitting all the way down when the throttle is not pressed ? Latlsy did you reassemble the carb properly? I’ve made mistakes. The main jet I didn’t tighten it when I rebuilt one of my carbs. Sh** happens. Double back and re check everything.
  3. The ridges should be flat. Yours look pointed? If they are new and there’s no metal shavings inside then it should be fine.
  4. That primary is gone! The ruts wil prob show that its within spec maybe because the high points in the ruts. It’s not supposed to look like that. It has to be replaced.
  5. Go look on any boat marina equipment web site. They have a ton of radio enclosures clear type and mounting hardware. Dual Electronics MH200 Transparent Marine Waterproof Radio Housing Unit Single DIN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SQXQCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wM1OCb1GXC5N7
  6. Ok here’s the spec on the regulator. I really don’t think it’s going to be the cause but just check it out. Read the page carefully and check it out. Side note. What color wire had power at the ignition? I attached the wire colors going to the ignition. ( Last pic attached)
  7. Regulator is on the left side of the frame next to the battery. Take a look and I will shoot you the spec on it. It’s a shot in the dark but worth a look. Since everything else seems to be checking out ok.
  8. I would think that the harness is right against the frame or wires are bundled to tightly in the front end possibly pulling apart. But my guess would be that there is a portion of the wire harness presssed against frame and a wire may be bare and shorting out against the frame when stressed on a turn.
  9. The key off =bike off! So that’s not normal. This is something simple. I think your going to have to regroup and go back and recheck everything again. Have you checked your regulator?
  10. The plug I’m referring to is right under the front plastic and it comes from the start button. I believe you had it exposed. Your only testing continuity on the start button from the handle bar wire side plug. Have you taken all the plastics off and inspected the harness ? Have you checked the ignition switch for 12v while the key is on? There should be a power source coming from the battery to the ignition switch. I’m going to check the color wire and get back to you. It should be a brown wire that has 12v if I’m not mistaken.
  11. Not bypassing brother. Like a bike I had and ordered a carburetor for there was an extra port. For what I had no clue. The carb was a perfect match aside from that port. So I plugged it with a piece of hose with a plug on the end.
  12. Spray that cover good with WD 40 and blast it off so you get as much of the metal shavings out as possible. Change the oil and filter when your done changing the primary housing before you run the engine.
  13. Wow. The old clutch was clearly well past it’s life expectations !! The metal shavings are where the old worn clutch was expanding against the primary housing metal on metal since the clutch pads are clearly gone. That is the reason why your new one is slipping. It’s expanding but not gripping bc the housing is so far worn away. Your going to need a new primary.
  14. You will pick it up as you go. It’s not that hard to understand once you have played with a few bikes.
  15. The smaller wires going to the starter relay, have you tried to disconnect them and see if the starter spins with the battery connected? The reasons why this would happen are a few things. The start button is stuck. That can be tested with an electrical tester. The wire that sends 12v to the soliniod to activate the starter has been tapped into by another 12 v feed somewhere along the line. Maybe someone added an accessory of sort and that’s back feeding the wire. Are you at all handy with a tester ?
  16. I paid $300 if I remember correctly. I picked it up back in November. Put it in a garage I rent a mile away from my house and it sat. I wanted to wait until it got warmer out. So I picked it up yesterday and brought it to my house and it’s ready to be torn down a bit this week. But it needs a good wash down first.
  17. The white is just a carbon build up. No worries.
  18. Thanks @06kfx440 she’s all in tact! Just need to get her fired up. I thought I would be able to work on it this week but temps are dropping. Going to leave it be for a few days in my garage and take a few parts off for now. Can’t wash it down just yet.
  19. Welcome to Quadcrazy! I would think your going to have to trace each of the 8 wires on the outgoing side to its destination and inspect for damage. If no luck finding damage or a shorted wire then try to disconnect each of the wires one at a time and see if the fuse holds. Process of elimination here I think. Get some extra fuses!
  20. Looks great. So do the sausages!!
  21. Have you checked the main fuse located next to the starting solonid. Look at that solinoid and see if there’s a fuse right next to it under a rubber cap. Make sure you’ve gone through every fuse and connection. Try to wiggle the key while it’s in the ignition and see if anything happens. Sometimes it’s a bad ignition switch. Checking the power to the switch is a good idea like @David Peterson mentions. If you don’t have power after all of that the you have to start looking at safety switches like the neutral safety switch and the kill switch etc.
  22. So here she is. Finally dug it out and about to go into tear down. The last owner was a little sticker crazy 😝 aside form the NY GIants sticker! The bike is in perfect condition mechanically and ascetically. No cracks in the plastics etc. just dirty and sat for quite some tome. Going to wash her down and take it to pieces, clean it up and fire it up! More pics to follow.
  23. The best of and seals are not to bad cost wise. Getting the bearing out of the diff is a pain in the as*. Juts be patient you will find a good one. I sent an email if my guy has one I will put you in touch.
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