Frank Angerano

Looks great @Ajmboy nice work. Going to get a few inches it looks like.

You have to look at the description. I seen the same thing but figured it out before I ordered. Sounds like ur happy so good luck!

Im going to try that ad blocker. Thanks @davefrombc and @Admin for a quick response.

So pop ups on the forum are not built into the forum? Its malware even on my iPhone? Here is one example. Im only on the mobil.

Is it me or are there a ton of pop up ads on the forum now ? I can't navigate through a page without having an ad pop up or clicking on an ad because it pops up on the page as i was about to click on a topic ????

Thats pretty cool @mikeexplorer what program do you use? Whats the name, i know nothing about this stuff but always been curious about it.

I will agree with @spock58 with the top end just based on the amount of wear and tear. But before all that go ahead and double check the timing, valve adjustment and see what you get. I would bet you adjust the valves and compression will change. Look at the compression release as well to make sure it’s operating properly and if so after a valve adjustment it should fire up. If the carburetor is good and it’s getting fuel she will fire up.

I didn’t get one yet. I Will take a look at that one. I’m trying to find taller and narrow then wide so I can throw it on a shelf in the garage. I screwed up big time, the narrow green works one was $112. I waited and seen if for $89 and was going to buy it. Then the next day it went to $77!!!!!!! I missed it and now it’s up to $124. FML I’m upstate now hunting and planning on hitting the stores tomorrow around lunch. If not I will wait until cyber Monday. Looking at some snow for Sunday and Monday it looks like up here and maybe 3-5” in the city so I’m thinking of eating breakfast and blowing out of here by 9:30 am to beer the traffic. This is the one I could have had for $77. Greenworks 1700 PSI 13 Amp 1.2 GPM Pressure Washer with Hose Reel GPW1702 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PSQ4XUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O8z4Db5EAGYA5

Hey James welcome to Quadcrazy. Have you checked the kill switch for proper operation and made sure there is no water inside the switch ? Have you also tested the stator with a tester to make sure it’s good ?

That’s great news brother. Pinch points hurt in more ways then one. RIDE SAFE ! Happy thanksgiving.

Happy thanksgiving 🦃

Hey Mike welcome to Quadcrazy. Yes you will be able to download the manual after 10 contributing posts. What kind of wiring problem are you having ?

I was a little confused as well. Wound up buying these from Amazon after looking at a web site that was given to me by @Ajmboy I was able to verify tire and rim sizes as well as bolt patterns. Set of 2 12" Trailer Tires Rims 530-12 5.30-12 5.30 x 12 LRC 5 Lug/4.5" Hole Bolt White Spoke Wheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759JP9M2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AR03DbRKK1HGY

Nice work @Ajmboy, the atv looks great.

I hear ya but these things are hearty. They run forever. Hopefully you got the oil and grease off. Maybe adjust the float a little higher so your sure the fuel is getting to the bowl. Bad rings would not prevent the engine from startup as long as there’s some compression.

Wow great news, what was the problem? Do you have a neutral light when the key is on ? Did you jump the solenoid to verify that the starter is working? If not then do so, if it spins great then you can move on to the starter circuit. If the starter does not spin then your starter may be bad or at least the brushes inside it. The starter relay circuit is pretty simple. Go to the usual suspect first. The neutral safety switch! Your bike should have a red and a light green wire coming out of the engine on the left side where the shifter area is right above it. There is a light green wire, take that wire and disconnect it from the wire going into the engine and put a jumper from a good ground to that green wire on the harness side and see if the starter works with the push button. If not then locate the stater circuit relay. It’s in the same area as the starter solenoid round aluminum relay in a black rubber boot holder. There should be four wires on the relay. Two black, one brown and one green. Jump the two blacks and see if it works. If so then it’s one of two things. The brown wire feeding the relay is not getting 12v or the green wire is not getting a ground from the neutral safety switch. Double check the bike is in neutral before you do any of this. Check back and let me know.

This was a conversation a while back about open and closed throttle during a compression test. The difference is the amount of air intake into the cylinder to compress. So open throttle allows more air into the head that will give you higher compression. Depending on the condition of your piston/rings or a bad head gasket would make a difference on the test. Blow out all the ports on the carburetor with air and check your float needle that allows fuel to flow into the bowl.

Def looking good! Love the rancher.

Been down this road a few times. I have come across more then a few pain in the asses. Now it becomes an obsession figuring this out. And I want to know what the final result was so let’s see this through for the next member that has this problem. Somethings grounding this circuit out or it’s a bad cdi.

I know the feeling.

I would start to pull the harness away from the frame and start to check for any cuts or broken wires. Then Start checking continuity from one end of a wire in the harness to another. So locate a brown wire and start checking for another brown wires and check continuity at each spot. Do the same for all wires in the harness to make sure they are not broke. Understand or am I not clear?

Yep it’s prob an accessory terminal or charging port. I just looked at the diagram it is an accessory/trailer lights terminal.

That plug is an accessory connector of some sort maybe a battery tender. If you look at a lot of the wiring diagrams it shown an accessory set of wires. Check it for voltage with key on and off. Was it plugged into anything or is it just hanging.

Have you opened up the kill switch to check for water ? Also wiggle the ignition switch, sometimes the contacts are bad inside the switch?

Take a compression reading holding the throttle wide open and then closed. Or rip the carb off and take a reding holding your hand over the intake manifold and one without your hand over it. Im sure you did a great job rebuilding the carb but something is not clear inside one of the small ports within the carb. There is a fuel blockage someplace, a jet that’s not clear or the float is set to high. If you are having a rough time with the air/fuel screw then throw a rebuild kit in the carb. Ex caliber makes a great oem type kit that comes with the air fuel screw as well.