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Everything posted by Frank Angerano
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Keyword the exact one you have on eBay. See what comes up
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I have a feeling your right. So now what? I would buy it and see how it fits up. Maybe a guess but I think it will be good to go.
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163598132368 maybe it’s the one?
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It’s hard to say but I would guess the last two years before and after would fit that. Just look up the part and compare the plugs. They should be noticeable as far as fit up. But before you replace everything do some testing and check the stator and pick up coils first. If your handy with a tester let us know and we will walk you through it.
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Hey brother nice find for $100 bucks. If that timing was out a lot then the valves and piston could have collided. Not likely based on what it looks like in the pics. The timing chain tensioner CAN come out without anything falling inside the engine. Reset the timing and adjust the valves. Then do a compression test and let us know what you have. If your about 90psi or better great. Check the carburetor is adjusted right and the engine runs good. Then see how it runs. If the bike is not moving but the engine is reving then it may be a clutch adjustment or replacement. Start there first and get back.
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Yep looks that way. Got it out ok ?
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Textron mudPRO 700 led light bar install?
Frank Angerano replied to Harold Wallace's topic in Textron Off Road ATV Forum
That’s correct !- 20 replies
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- led.light bar
- mud pro 700
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Well done! Very well done! Looks great, very happy to hear and see the pics. Everyone on Quadcrazy that wants to see what you can do for a few hundred bucks should look here. Nice looking bike. Can’t wait to see the next project.
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Awesome stuff. I would recommend changing the water pump while your in there. That bike was fun to work on. The valve cover bolts 8mm there are quite a few different lengths that go on that cover so be sure about the way they go back. Be super careful with the water temp sensor wire, they break off easy. Use a lot of grease on the parts, cam, lobes etc prior to start up and crank the engine without the spark plug in for a few seconds each time so you pump oil up to the head. Other then that I think your right on par. Good luck. Post some dam pics I love pics!!!!
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Thoughts on this carburetor adjust
Frank Angerano replied to Frank Angerano's topic in General ATV Discussion
If you contact the manufacturer of that screw set up they have all the info on bikes and carbs you have. -
Textron mudPRO 700 led light bar install?
Frank Angerano replied to Harold Wallace's topic in Textron Off Road ATV Forum
That would apply to the older bikes. The newer bikes are much more intricately designed with regard to electrical safety. So adding anything to the wiring adds an amperage draw to the system which is outside its normal draw and will throw a code out onto the dash. It will also lock out the ecm. This way no wires burn up.- 20 replies
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- led.light bar
- mud pro 700
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Yamaha Warrior clutch/carb/exhaust issues
Frank Angerano replied to JacobSlabach's topic in Yamaha ATV Forum
That’s correct. It’s a shaft that goes down and inside the cover and pushed the clutch open. Check the manual for the schematic. I have a feeling somethings missing in there. -
Yamaha Warrior clutch/carb/exhaust issues
Frank Angerano replied to JacobSlabach's topic in Yamaha ATV Forum
Have you moved the clutch arm at the engine and see if there’s any spring action? If you follow the cable down to the engine you will find it leads to a small armature. That is what brings the clutch in and out try to manually move it with your hand or a pair of channel locks. It should move in one direction and release on its own. If not then there’s a problem within the clutch or the armature that pulls the clutch in on the inside of the cover. While the bike is not running try this. You can raise the rear wheels off of the ground and put it in first gear. Try to spin the wheels and you should get resistance from the engine. Then move that armature in and see if the rear wheels spin. They should spin somewhat freely. -
Your welcome. That part your pointing to is your cam chain tensioner. If it’s in the way of the statue then you can remove it and put it back. However.... once it’s out do not rotate the engine because that tensioner keeps pressure (tension) on your timing chain. Rotating the engine while the tensioner is out can allow the chain to jump and throw the timing off. So pull the tensioner out do what you have to do and put it back in.
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It really seems to me that you have a poor connection someplace. If the battery is fresh then your loosing power within the harness. I would go get some dielectric grease and start taking plugs apart and cleaning. Then add grease to the plug and reconnect. Then go to the starter relay and loosen the main battery cables on both lugs, clean and re tighten. Make sure your battery wires are not broken at the crimped part where the connector is on all ends. Check the main ground wire. Loosen it up clean and tighten. Lastly is it’s possible that one of your relays weather it be the main starting relay or the neutral safety relay may be bad. Both are not expensive and easy to change. But start with your connections first.
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I had a feeling. Whenever there a change over period things kinda get crossed over to the newer models at the end of an era if you will. It’s actually a good thing for you. Ok cool. Let us know how you make out.
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Def going to be a rematch. Should be a good fight. I have a feeling the outcome will be different.
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Ok I will take a look and maybe we can make some headway on what’s what.
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Can you post some pics ?
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Take a piece of a bicycle brake cable and separate the strands and use one of the strands. It works great. Or go on amazon and they have a small kit that has all sorts of small cleaning tips for that work. Just look up a carburetor cleaning tool. As far as the shifter goes I would have a welder make up some linkage and do some custom work. BUT YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT ALL ELECTRICAL ITEMS ON THE ENGINE BEFORE YOU WELD ON THE FRAME! you will do damage to the stator coil and rectifier. The starter will come out it’s going to take some finesse. Look on YouTube and search starter removal on an atc 200 Honda and see what comes up.
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Could have been a change over period and may have to go with the 90 but only if it’s an exact match. “Not more like mine” that won’t work. You have to be sure.
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1999 Polaris Sportsman 500 wont start
Frank Angerano replied to Paul Maple's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
That wear and tear looks normal to me. Make sure your not having ignition breakdown with the in line tester and double check that gap on the pick up coil. Maybe the cdi is bad but thats not testable. If you have someone with another bike that’s similar in years you can swap em out to see. -
I know the feeling. But keep in mind that the Honda dealers can help you out with old parts when in need but eBay has most of the stuff your looking for. Also my response was just a guess. I could be wrong but I bet I’m in the ball park. What’s on the list of things to do ?
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Yes you will need a wheel puller to get that off. I’m honestly feeling like the engine is blown and may be beyond repair. You really have to take a good look and see what happened. The engine could have locked up and came to a complete stop and broke that oil pump gear. Best bet is to take it all apart and see what the main bearing looks like. Worst case is you lost time.
