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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/24/2016 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    I saw this article on Motosport and thought it was pretty good. Anyone add anything? You might think hopping on-board an ATV and going for a spin is just as easy as taking your regular 4-wheel car for a ride around the block. After all, both have four wheels. How hard could it be? In many respects, you're right. Some adventure riders choose quads over their two-wheeled counterparts of the dirt because there's less chance of crashing and it's easier to learn. ATVs also offer more manageability for younger riders to get acquainted with outdoor riding than a dirt bike. However, beginner riders on ATVs tend to make the same mistakes that result in crashes, roll overs and injury that could be avoided with some instruction and know-how. If you're looking at a fun family outing by renting ATVs or want to get into the sport take advantage of the following points and avoid the same mistakes so many other first time ATV riders make that end their day early or before they barely get started. 1. Nerf Bars Get Nerf bars. These are not soft cushy add-ons that are cousins to the football you use during backyard football games. In many respects, Nerf bars are gigantic foot pegs. Don't bother with traditional foot pegs because you'll constantly slip off and because of the "I feel safe factor" that comes with riding a quad you'll also have a tendency to let your feet drag when riding. That's a recipe for getting one or both of your feet caught in the back tire resulting in serious injury. Nerf bars allow you to stabilize your feet and get maximum control over the ATV Rest your feet easy on Nerf bars 2. Rolling Over Believe it or not, it's fairly easy to roll an ATV over. And you don't want to be on the bottom of that sandwich. The most common way of ending underneath a quad is looping out. That's done by hitting the gas and having little to no experience with the power of an ATV. The front spikes up like an out of control stallion, throws you onto your back like a bucking bronco and then pins you like a UFC Champ. The second way is when you're having a bit too much fun sliding around in mud or other slick conditions, the tires finally do what they're designed to do and grip the ground but the rest of the bike, with you on it, keeps going. Finally, those who think they've found their bearings take aim for a steep slope and try to conquer it only to end up upside down or in their attempt to arch alongside said steep hill, tumble over the side. 3. False Sense of Security This goes somewhat hand-in-hand with the roll over capability that many riders fail to appreciate therefore they also neglect wearing proper protective equipment. Don't think wearing jeans, t-shirt and sneakers is adequate protection when riding a 4-wheeled machine powered by a gas engine that doesn't have seatbelts. You need a helmet, goggles, gloves and riding boots at a minimum. Once you start ripping it on the track or trails add a chest protector, neck brace, knee brace, etc. 4. Throttle Control Everybody wants to skip the kiddie stage and get right into hair-raising speed when it comes to riding ATVs. OK, most everybody. But for those who do so many put on the cloak of invincibility and think a quad is merely a mini car that finally enables them to release all sorts of pent up childhood inhibitions. So they jab their thumb into the throttle with the expectation of a controlled roller coaster ride. Instead, they loop out and end up underneath the quad or manage to stay seated only to careen off course and introduce their 4x4 to a large tree. ATVs normally have a thumb throttle and most have an automatic clutch so the clutch is one less thing to worry about. So go slow and figure out how much "thumb" is too much and get used to the speed and power an ATV delivers before really going for a ride. Oh, one more thing, learn to take your thumb off the throttle! It's not to hard to loop out on an ATV 5. Loading the ATV Never, ever ride an ATV up a ramp into the back of a pick-up. If you want to know why just go to YouTube. If you want to know how to load an ATV check out this fine piece of quality information on How to Load a Motorcycle, Dirt Bike or ATV into a Truck. The bottom line to riding an ATV the first time is treat it like you would anything that comes with a modicum of danger. Careless behavior endangers you and others but with common sense and a willingness to learn you'll enjoy of lifetime of riding quads. For additional information on riding and/or maintaining ATVs see: 10 Quick Safety Tips for ATV Trail Riding Tips for New ATV Owners Choosing the Best ATV for Beginners 10 Things That Alter Your ATV Performance Written By: AndrewT
  2. 3 points
    You'd have to measure to be sure , but the hubs may very well be interchangeable. My guess is they most likely are if they are from similar quad series. Hubs from a 250cc to 350cc bike in either series are more likely to be a direct swap than from a 250 and one with a much larger displacement. More power would call for heavier axles and hubs in most cases.
  3. 3 points
    If you need Honda, Kaw, Suzuki, Yamaha, Arctic cat, Polaris, try https://www.babbittsonline.com/
  4. 3 points
    Welcome aboard @Squirrel @Bud394 @RAYAR @Jonathan Newnham @Steve1981 @KGB @KGB @grizzlysixsixty @AC1 @Brer Wilson @Pzzaman0 @Alexandre Leblanc @patrick st-james @Ty Warner !
  5. 3 points
    For anyone interested, QUADCRAZY goes back to 2003 so I decided to look us up on https://web.archive.org/ 2003 (images no longer exist on the server) 2007 2008 2012 2016 2018
  6. 3 points
    Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments. Source: http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/free/steering/atv-front-end-alignment/ When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare. One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine. Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel. Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components. The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider. Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks. Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B. Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual. To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads. Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod. When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly. Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
  7. 3 points
    Heres what I did- Don’t forget to hone the cylinder. Use lots of assembly lube. Before first start take out spark plug and turn engine over a few seconds to get oil flowing around a bit. Start it and let it idle for 30ish seconds, then rev it keep the rmps varying but not too high. This is so that the rings seat properly. And you need the variations to mimic the kind of conditions it will be facing while you ride- constantly changing rpms. Once it seems to be pretty well warmed up to regular operating temperature or you feel it has run long enough, let it cool down completely. Repeat the rev/cooling process 2 more times. Once you are ready to ride take it easy for the first 10 miles or so. Check all nuts/bolts periodically through this process. Hope this helps. The kit may come with recommended instructions also.
  8. 3 points
    I am a 63 year young "Nana" who rode when I was younger, then my kids rode. I still like the breeze in my hair now and then. Mostly I try to keep something around and running for my 5 grandboys.
  9. 3 points
    Air compressor, plug kit, valve stem kit, tow strap, Set of sockets and wrench. multi-tool, electrical tape, zip ties, spare fuses jumper cables (quad style, not automotive), spare spark plug. Thats what I carry, probably missed a few things. Mike
  10. 3 points
    This is what hauls our Quads now. Wow! We love this thing, This is not just an F-250 over here. I can do 100kph seat 5 in cumfort and It only uses 680kms per 110lts (422mile per 29gallons)
  11. 2 points
    So, what did you do on tax day ?? Me, I went for a track ride even thou it was foggy and snowy ... Hope you enjoy the winter time video ... ...
  12. 2 points
    I'd recommend hooking up the new starter & cranking it over with the spark plug removed. Good Idea to ground the plug while doing so. Keep pumping it until there's no sign of fuel. Very important: don't let the plug spark anywhere near that fuel getting cleared! Not very likely there's damage to the crank/piston, just don't turn it over without the plug out.
  13. 2 points
    Waiting for day off to continue. Yea is a pain to fix others rig. Looking at the harness and other wiring I really don't see any other areas where they messed with it. Looks pretty stock and no burns or messed up wiring. Ill check the regulator on Friday and also see which one had power at ign. I did check starter switch and is open so figure its bad. Now I tried to jump wires on opposite end of connector and still no crank with key on and off. LOL at least im not posting trash just to get a download
  14. 2 points
    So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike/ATV. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”. Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for. 1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color. 2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you. 3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running) 4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks. 5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck. 5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath. 7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart. 8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart. 9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material. 10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up. 11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it 12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike . All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems. I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence! I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
  15. 2 points
    To start it off, I'd like to share the bakery display cases I made for my wife. I'm sure ya'll have some impressive stories behind those HF tools, let's see 'em! I built these bakery display cases for wife on almost 100% HF tools a couple years ago. Only thing I bought from Home Depot was the wood/plywood/stains and 3 sawhorses for my workbench. Router, circsaw, blades for both, sander, sandpaper, gloves, the nails for the nailgun (gun borrowed from dad, have a 5# pancake for air) I had almost zero tools to start. Some of their cheap "speed" clamps failed, but first time for me using those types of clamps, was expecting them to hold better: heh my youngest helping my dad glue: and for fun, here was the finished project (1 of 2, built 2 cases, this is the smaller .. the plastic was from Tap Plastics for the "sneeze guards" and the top case): back side showing both cases:
  16. 2 points
    Thanks for all of the helpful tips and ideas! I wish i could work on it right now but the weather isn't agreeing with me (Wish i had a nice garage lol). I'll definitely go at it once this rain lets up. I've messed with the carb so much but from what I've read off this forum i'll tear it down again and correct the air/fuel screw and also run seafoam afterwards. If it still runs the way it does right now ill correct the timing and checks the cams! I'll also check the belts while i'm at it.
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    hey you too man! And thanks to the forum and especially you for helping me through this rebuild!!👍👍 It actually turned out better than I expected.
  19. 2 points
    I'd like to remind everyone that posting useless content to inflate your post count will just get you flagged for spamming and this site shares spammer info with thousands of other sites, so it's not good practice.
  20. 2 points
    Ill get some pics up , been busy , actually layed out all parts tonight , also took delivery this afternoon af wifes and my new machines, hold up for two weeks for plow parts , ill be busy next few days lol ....
  21. 2 points
    Vin# is located on the left side frame rail. Find the frame rail below the shift lever, follow that rail forward to where it goes up the wheel well. Get down low and look up behind the wheel well at the frame rail.
  22. 2 points
    I bought all new cables for my YFM225 Moto-4 a few months ago. They can be purchased from either the Rocky Mountain ATV website or from Babbitt's website. You will find them listed under the OEM Parts section: CABLE, BRAKE 2HT-26361-00-00 And are about $33 each.
  23. 2 points
    New atv/utv also cost insane amount of $$$. Have a 20 year old polaris diesel ATV, still runs great.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    I'd check to see if you picked something up in your clutch.when you remove the cover tap the clutch with a rubber Malloy while turning slowly.
  26. 2 points
    They call em snakes, hammer handles, spawn of satan... the poor Northern Pike. They are somewhat slimy, they have a stronger flavor than pickerel, and the bones... If these things were boneless there would be none left on the planet I am certain. There are boneless filet techniques for Pike but I think the main reason people can't take them apart is because they don't know how they are put together. Learn the lore of the pike and it will open a new world. Regardless I love Pike and I think they are an under utilized resource. Ground pike balls are not the only way. Especially pre-May opener, or even may opener (we had snow last year) when the weather is cold, one of the ways to get around all the bones even with the boneless techniques is to cube the meat and make soup. Here is my recipe In a large pot cube (1/2" x 1/2") 4 medium potatoes and 2 large carrots. Coarsely slice 1/2 a large white onion. Cube up 2-3 stalks of celery ( I like to use the celery core, it tends to be a little bitter to eat but has the leafy sprouts that act with a parsley). If I use the core I add 2 more stalks, otherwise 3. Fill with water (to a point where it won't boil over)… yeah I know not that accurate but its a bish recipe... we don't measure Black pepper to taste 2-3 heaping table spoons of powdered chicken broth (this is also the salt, I don't add salt) bring all to a boil and simmer until potatoes an carrots are tender add cubed pike meat, and raise temp until it is all at vigorous boil (the pike will be easily cooked by this time. In a small bowl crack 2 full eggs and coarsely wisk it with a fork and drizzle into the boiling water remove pot from heat and serve (warn starving bush guests not to melt their face on the nuclear soup) This is super easy for camp, potatoes, carrots, onions, celery (celery less so) can keep for a long time. The powered soup broth is shelf worthy. We use potable water we cart in. Just need the fresh pike. Enjoy.... I do !
  27. 2 points
    We need the year and model of the machine. In general they are a CVT transmission with a wet clutch. If the belt is slipping you would probably hear a squealing noise. If it feels like its slipping with no noise, it could be the wet clutch shoes, most likely cause is using oil that is not wet clutch certified. You have to use the right oil in these machines. If you use regular engine oil, it contains friction modifiers that will cause the wet clutch to slip and burn up eventually. Mike
  28. 2 points
    This is the only one that is in the downloads section
  29. 2 points
    I have several Suzuki 250 and 300 from the late 80's and 90's called quadrunner or kingquad. They are semi auto, you can find them in 2x4 or 4x4. You also can find them on craigslist usually under $1000 needing work. They are small and slow but are a workhorse, the main tranny has 5 gears and reverse and then there is a 3 speed sub tranny. They will tow alot as long as you have traction, I use them to tow 3000# boats around my yard. They also have independent rear suspension and are shaft drive. The honda 300's are good and simple too.
  30. 2 points
    You could if you replace the carb. Check out this topic:
  31. 2 points
    Back on the Apache Backcountry Tracks enjoying the snow ... or what snow we have ... PRAY FOR SNOW !! Hope you enjoy the video !!
  32. 2 points
    So after my 400ex pep up (High comp piston, stage 2 hot cam, and some others), There was a malfunction with the rocker arm jam-nut; guess it wasn't torqued to spec. The rocker arm nut caused the lash to become too out of clearance and I bent a valve on a test rip high in the rpm range. There was no damage to the piston but only that valve, a couple dents in the head, and a completely destroyed valve guide. So I decided to take it upon myself (after watching kenoconnors race porting instructions and reading up on this subject) to port my cylinder head significantly. I had the head decked, cylinder honed and smoothed/polished the dome/exhaust port (intake wasn't polished but dimpled slightly to ensure fuel atomization). So after porting, decking the head, I had all valves and guides replaced/reamed, 5 angle valve job, and recut seats, then I installed xr400 gaskets (for higher compression), carb jets; 42 pilot, 175 or 6 main not sure, dynojet needle, k and n filter with no lid, enlarging of header ports and big gun eco slip on exhaust for a 450r, trx 250r coil (adds 1000+ rpm to limiter), 11:1 85mm piston, stg 2 hc with springs and retainers replaced, and polished rocker arms. I then replaced both sprockets one down in front and stock in rear, o ring chain, and 18in tires. There is a larger list of mods but these were the only ones affecting acceleration/performance. On the dyno, this quad put down 42rwhp and was estimated at 46 to the flywheel. Once again this was 42 to the wheel on the stock bore/carb size/header. All this was done at 16 yrs old. You may not be able to see it in the picture but peak whp was 42 on a mustang dyno.
  33. 2 points
    I remember you from the ATV zone. You posted some nice videos from riding in Utah with tracks on your quad. Good to see you are still around Mike
  34. 2 points
    Did you try the starter fluid test just to make sure its not fuel starving? You had mentioned that it would start and then die out, that's usually lack of fuel
  35. 2 points
    At the top of the page you'll see the heading "Browse" . Mouse over it and choose "Downloads" . In that folder you will see on the right a list of the manuals available. The Honda service manuals can be found under "Other" Here is the link to the file in that folder you are looking for. It covers both the 2 wheel drive TRX300 as well as the 4x4 TRX300FW models.
  36. 2 points
    Took a night ride to test out my new Light Bar on the Warrior. Turned out to be another typical Wylde1 Goon ride.
  37. 2 points
    I figured that out too finally by looking over the home page i guess that it is just a mental thing to see a page that says "Active Topics." Now that I understand how it works it might be easier to navigate. I just wish folks would share more pics and respond to those that are posted, it makes it more enjoyable for sure to be here.
  38. 2 points
    "Von Spakovsky, senior legal fellow and manager of the Election Law Reform Initiative at the Heritage Foundation, said voter fraud is prevalent enough that it could make the difference in a close election. The Heritage Foundation, he said, has recorded 430 cases of voter fraud -- proven cases where someone was convicted or a judge ordered a new election. A former FEC commissioner and counsel to the assistant attorney general for civil rights at the U.S. Justice Department, von Spakovsky said California is of particular concern because of the rising number of noncitizens illegally registering and voting in elections, as well as the “terrible shape” the voter registration rolls are in." http://www.foxnews.com/politics/2016/11/03/voter-fraud-california-man-finds-dozens-ballots-stacked-outside-home.html Apparently it can be done. Anyway, fraud, if it exists, would be on the democrats' part for sure. One look at the protests will tell you that these people would do anything to get their way. This guy goes undercover in drag to interview them and found they don't even know what they're protesting about. They just need someone to hate.
  39. 2 points
    atvs We can only dream If Honda were to make an ATC70 today it would probably look something like this. View the full article
  40. 2 points
    dude you have the nicest blaster ive yet to see. nice pics
  41. 2 points
    [ATTACH]213[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]214[/ATTACH] This hauler was custom my made by my wife uncle for his truck, when I bought the atv's he gave me the hauler. If you look in the project room, you will find my new project sitting on it. It also make a great work platform for the atv's and lawn mower. [ATTACH]215[/ATTACH]
  42. 1 point
    As long as our discussions bring others to thinking and searching for facts , real facts, and forming their own opinions we have accomplished something. We may not agree on everything. What a boring world that would make , but we can civilly disagree and reach a consensus that benefits us all. If only we were all as smart as the Great Orange one claims to be
  43. 1 point
    Videos for sure. I have my go pro 7 recording all of it. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  44. 1 point
    Thanks everyone ... I appreciate the well wishes for her 👊 ................ ...
  45. 1 point
    @JacobSlabachcan you give us a video (lots of audio) with the exhaust knock? and when I say us, I mean, it will help put pressure on the gurus I'm not satisfied seeing this thread end on a 98% happy ending
  46. 1 point
    I have bought from them, i purchased a set of 4 point harness belts, service was good, delivery was good, pricd was fair tge only issue i have is that it was in US dollars and i am in canada so with exchange and shipping it was a bit pricey. Bob
  47. 1 point
    Hey @Muleman I like the Kawasaki logo !
  48. 1 point
    They finally got around to updating the PA section, it had out of date information
  49. 1 point
    Another great video, looks like lots of fun!
  50. 1 point
    According to what I could find the AC motor is actually built by Kymco. The 366 has an 81 mm (3.188") bore. This L.A. outfit sells a sleeve kit for them. . I couldn't find any mention of oversize pistons, so it may be sleeving the bore and new stock piston is the only way to go. https://www.lasleeve.com/downloads/2013-Catalog-ATV-Section.pdf
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