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DirtDemon

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  1. DirtDemon
    A hollow knock pin is basically a line up dowel that goes around a cylinder or head stud leaving a space around the circumfrence the stud. Not only does it help keep things lined up properly, but they also allow oil passage between the crankcase and head by allowing oil to pass along the stud through the cylinder. Do you have a manual for this machine?
  2. DirtDemon
    I believe those motors are mounted using rubber isolators, so a certain amount of movement will occur. However, if you have a busted mount or isolator, the motor may move more than normal, and that could definately cause problems with the drive belt. I would definately take a good look at all the motor mounts before doing anything else. Also please post the year of the ATV as Outlander asked.
  3. DirtDemon
    I asked him for more info on his machine too. I think that was another one time poster, he hasn't come back since his original post on 9-29.
  4. DirtDemon
    I also agree, I would wait to upgrade. Not that I think there is any real harm to be done, many machines come off the showroom floor with add-ons already installed by the dealer. It just seems to me like it would be best to let things settle in before you start changing stuff.
  5. DirtDemon
    Good luck.
  6. DirtDemon
    You need to buy a manual.
  7. DirtDemon
    Is that a 300ex?
  8. DirtDemon
    Did you put a brand new carb on it? If it is used, then take it apart and clean it. If new, then I would try re-jetting. What does the plug look like?
  9. DirtDemon
    I would start by checking the oil pump. Then all the oil passages and depending on what your machine uses, a hollow knock pin, or a transfer tube to get oil from the crankcase to the head. There should also be oil gallies in the rocker shafts, they must be lined up with the gallies in the head so that oil can flow through. If you don't have a manual, get one. I don't think the chain slides should effect oil transfer, but if you are unsure if you have them in right, I would double check to make sure they are in right.
  10. DirtDemon
    It is a totally different animal. You will see when you ride it.
  11. DirtDemon
    HAHAHAHAHAH. Do you want to punch him in the face because you bought a new ECU?
  12. DirtDemon
    Stickied that thread for ya.
  13. DirtDemon
    Not really, the small tires come with higher gearing. Also, it is harder to get traction with the small tires, so the Honda probably accellerates quicker in some cases because it gets better traction. The only real advantage to the smaller tires is better cornering because the quad sits lower. That only helps when riding on a track. The firs thing I did to my LTR, was put bigger tires on it. I ride mostly in the woods, so I need a little more ground clearance. The bigger tires required lower gearing, so I went down 1 tooth on my front sprocket to compensate. Also, I don't know for sure that my LTR was not going a tad faster or slower than the TRX, I am just saying that the Honda kept right up with my LTR, there is no way there is a 4 or 5 mph difference between the two.
  14. DirtDemon
    Socks, sandles, a stupid facial expression and a big foam cowboy hat will get my vote every time.
  15. DirtDemon
    In most cases, yes. However, Honda's Unicam design makes just as much power as a 4 valve DOHC using a single cam that is operating 4 valves.
  16. DirtDemon
    Me likes snow.
  17. DirtDemon
    Most, but not all SOHC motors are 2 valve enginges. For example, Honda uses a SOHC head with 4 valves on some of thier machines. Each intake valve is directly actuated by it's own lobe in the cam and the exhuast side uses a two fingered roller rocker arm to actuate the 2 valves on that side. This way you get the benefit of 4 valves per cylinder without all the extra moving parts. Many three valve motors use a two fingered rocker arm to actuate 2 valves off one cam lobe. The only real downside is that it puts more pressure on the cam lobe when it has to lift 2 valves instead of one, which causes the lobe to wear down faster. That is why it is best to use a roller rocker like Honda does to reduce friction.
  18. DirtDemon
    I know it does, my usual riding buddy rides an '08 TRX it would run almost dead even with my LTR on top speed when they were both completely stock.
  19. DirtDemon
    Take the carb completely apart, clean it. Make sure to get every hole and passage cleaned out including vent lines and adjust make sure the float is adjusted properly. I assume when you checked fuel flow, you checked it by turning the fuel petcock on and watched fuel flow from the tank? If you are getting fuel through the petcock, and the bike runs when you prime the carb, then I would think that you are not getting fuel into the carb. In that case I would suspect that the float is your primary problem, but I would still give the carb a thorough cleaning if you haven't already.
  20. DirtDemon
    You are right, that is so true. It seems like nobody appreciates anything anymore. I love that guy, Louis C K, have you ever watched any of his standup? It is good stuff.
  21. DirtDemon
    No title and you can't find a vin#, you may have a stolen ride there.
  22. DirtDemon
    Yeah, after it has been sitting for that long, the carb is most likely going to need a good cleaning. It could also be that your float is sticking. The fact that you say that it only smokes when you aren't on the gas makes me think that you are just getting too much fuel at at low engine speeds. I would guess that the air passage to the idle curcuit is clogged. Yamaha468 brings up some other good points too. Check the oil and make sure it hasn't been diluted with gas, and the color of the smoke will tell you what is causing it. Black smoke=too much fuel. Blue smoke=burning oil. White smoke=burning coolant. As far as the heat indicator light goes, once again, it could be the carb. If the main jet is gunked up, then you will be running lean on the top end and that will cause the machine to run hot. I would definately clean the carb to start.
  23. DirtDemon
    Right on, good luck with the used CDI. If you have any problems with it, try Service Honda, they have OEM Honda parts for quite a bit less than what your dealer is probably asking.
  24. DirtDemon
    It could definately be that they put a 400lb rider on the Honda and a 160lb rider on everything else. You would think that you would put the same rider on each bike for acceleration and top speed comparisons, that is, if you wanted to publish a non-biased article giving an accurate comparison between different products. Fact is, I have heard the expression "Yamawheels" more than once. Alot of people seem to think that they have tendency to favor Yamaha. I don't really have an opinion myself, but where there is smoke, there is usually fire. For the record I think that Yamaha makes a great product and always has, the YFZ was my first choice when I was shopping for a new ATV, but I found the best deal on an LTR so that is what I bought. The Yamaha may very well be capable of the speed that dirtwheels claims, they have a fancy new type of igniton that may be capable of getting a few more RPM's out of the motor. The part that I think is wierd is the Honda only going 69mph.
  25. DirtDemon
    What do the title and registration say? There should be a vin# on it somewhere. You could search the web for a vin# decoder, or call a dealer, they may be able to tell you what it is.

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