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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. Right on, good to hear you got it fixed.
  2. Take the carb completely apart and clean it well. The fuel screw is located on the bottom of the carb in front of the float bowl. I'm not sure, but I think the idle screw is on the left side of the carb, but I could be mistaken. How long has it been since you cleaned your air filter?
  3. I think that the FCR 41mm would be a good choice.
  4. Sucking water into the intake is bad, if that was indeed the problem, you need to be careful about going into water that is too deep. You need to install a snorkel system if you want to ride though deep water and mud that could get into the airbox. If the engine takes in too much water while running at high speeds, it can destroy your engine. Water does not compress in the cylinder like the air/fuel mix does. Here is a worst case scenario of what happens when your motor gets hydrolocked.
  5. Could be a hundred different things. I would start by doing a compression test. Also test the ignition components. Check valve clearances and timing chain tension. Check the spark plug.
  6. Definately sounds like the clutch is the problem, it sounds like you loosened something too much, you could try tightening whatever adjustment you messed with to start with. I would definately suggest buying a manual, it will have info on how to properly adjust the clutch.
  7. If none of that works, try disassembling the starter and cleaning it out. I have revived old starters with a good cleaning before. But I would try what Handyhiker suggested first.
  8. Too much voltage due to a faulty voltage regulator could also fry the ECU. I would definately test the reg before replacing the ECU.
  9. For a cheap simple start, you can gear down a bit. A one tooth larger rear sprocket will make low end response a little better without sacrificing too much top end speed. If you want to get into the engine, a stroker crank is one of the best ways to increase low end torque. A good set of cams designed to increase low/mid range performance will make a noticeable difference.
  10. Good luck man, let us know how it goes.
  11. Definately check wires, connections, grounds and test ignition components like Bot said. Make sure that the spark plug boot has a good connection to the coil wire. Also check to see that your flywheel key hasn't sheared off, that will cause inconsistent spark that is out of time. BTW, I think this thread may be better placed in the Kawasaki forum.
  12. First I would recommend buying a manual. When you mean it is always in gear, I assume you mean that the clutch is not disengaging. Try taking the entire clutch assembly apart. Some of the plates and friction discs may be stuck together making it impossible for the clutch center to spin freely from the basket. You may need to replace the clutch plates and friction discs.
  13. Check all your electrical connections, make sure the connections are clean, apply some dielectric grease, and seal them up good.
  14. This is just a wild thought, but when you are initially starting the machine, the electrical system is running off the battery. After it is running, it really gets it's power from the alternator, some components, like maybe the fuel pump and injection system, run off the current that comes out of the regulator/rectifier. Try checking the voltage that is coming out of the regulator.
  15. Remove the rear wheel and hub. Remove the spindle, remove the nuts and pins that secure the ball joints and then rap on the side of the spindle to knock the ball joints loose. Once you have the spindle off, the inner part of the half-shaft will unbolt from the rear carrier.
  16. I see that you too ride and LTR, good choice.
  17. That looks sooo cold, I am shivering just looking at that pic. Good pic though.
  18. Very nice setup, I must admit, I am a little jealous.
  19. The seat looks great, nice job. Looks like the rest is coming together nicely too.
  20. Did you take the carb apart and clean it? Has it been sitting for a while? Have you tried a new spark plug? You may want to test the ignition components, stator, coil, cdi, and check to make sure you have a good connection between the coil wire and plug boot.
  21. pfdloe, I started a new thread with your post, it is in this forum under 2003 Yamaha Warrior 350 engine misfire.
  22. You say the fuel pump relay shuts off, have you thought to replace the relay?
  23. I didn't realize that you were going to wire both batteries to the bike while you ride, you could run into problems if the batteries have different current ratings, and even if they are the same or close, one battery being older than the other could become an issue. More than likely one of the batteries will have a lower internal impedance than the other, causing it to discharge faster than the other. It will also take a charge faster. Depending on how your charging system works, you could end up not charging one of the batteries completely, or you could over-charge one of the batteries. Unless the batteries are about the same age and have the same current output, I wouldn't do it without an isolator.
  24. Have you done any motor mods?
  25. If it is running lean, then a clogged air filter is not likely, but running without the airbox lid will only make the lean condition worse. Have you tested the fuel pressure againg since you installed the new pump? I would double check the injectior to make sure it is clean and plenty of fuel is getting to and through it. I would try to explore every possibility before investing the $500 on a new ECU. Tank vent? Check the fuel hoses going from the tank to the pump for leaks. That could be how you were losing fuel pressure.
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