DirtDemon

Your centrifugal clutch might not be functioning properly, the oil level or type might hinder some of the tranny functions. I would strongly suggest buying a manual, they are a must have for amyone who is going to be working on their own machines. Until you can get ahold of one, try calling a dealer and talk to a service tech, to see what kind of oil you should use in the tranny.

Apology accepted Cyrus, even after you have been wrenching for years, you will still learn something new on occasion, I have been working on stuff from the time I could hold a wrench and there are still many things that I don't know. BTW, you aren't that young, you got me by a couple of years.

What color is the smoke? What does it smell like? What does the spark plug look like. You could be leaking oil into the crankcase because of an improperly installed crank seal, or a leak between the case halves. Or you could be leaking water into the cylinder through the head gasket or cylinder base gasket. Make sure all your bolts and nuts are properly torqued. You could just be getting too much oil from the oil injection. Also, check your timing and flywheel key. Also, I'm not exactly sure what the compression should be, but 110 seems a little low for a fresh piston and bore, but it still shouldn't run poorly. Did you do the compression test when the motor was warm or cold?

I have +2 Burgard a-arms for a 400EX on my R, you just have to use spacers on the '86 and '87 frames, I believe they are a direct bolt-on for the '88 and '89's. I use the 400EX spindles, hubs and brakes too, but I am working on adapters to put the R brakes on the EX spindles because the R has twin piston calipers and the 400EX brakes just don't cut it with the CR 500 motor. Eduardo, that is one clean R, that thing is immaculate.

Hey Cyrus, maybe your tank is empty smarty pants. When you turn a vacuum operated petcock to the prime position, it functions just like a gravity feed system. If YOU would like to do some research, read this description of how a vacuum operated petcock works. Pretty much the same thing I said earlier just in more detail. Below is a description from drpiston .com, and here is a link to another site that will tell you the same thing.Petcock Operation The petcocks are vacuum operated petcocks. This means that they have a little diaphragm and valve set-up in them which responds to engine vacuum and allows fuel to flow only when the engine is running and supplying vacuum. This is is how things work when the petcock lever is set to the "on" or "run" setting. So we see that the "on" setting is actually the "off" setting when the engine is not running. So if the engine quits for any reason (as in a "down" situation), the petcock(s) will automatically close and prevent the fuel from flowing out. These petcocks also have two other lever settings: The "prime" setting bypasses the vacuum function and allows fuel to flow at all times, even when the engine is stopped. The purpose of this setting is to allow the carb float bowls to be filled when the engine is not running. Note that if you run your petcock(s) on the prime setting all the time, you lose the safety feature provided by the vacuum petcock. Note also that on this setting, fuel is prevented from flowing out through the carbs, into cylinders, etc.) only by the float valves in the carbs, which close when the carbs are full. Should one of these float valves stick open or leak, you then get flooding through that carb. The "reserve" setting is used to access an additional amount of fuel when you start to run out. Here is how this works. These petcocks have inlet towers which stick up into the tank. In the "on" position, fuel flows down to the petcock through an opening high on the tower. So when you "run out of fuel" you actually have some more fuel sitting in the bottom of the tank which lies below this high inlet. When you turn the petcock lever to "reserve", a lower inlet near the bottom of the tower opens, so you can gain access to this last bit of fuel in your tank.

When you replaced the coil, did you replace just the coil and use the old plug boot, or did you replace the whole thing? A poor connection between the coil wire and the spark plug boot could be your problem. Also check all your wiring connections and grounds, KILL SWITCH, and obviously you need to have a good sparkplug.

The DVX 400 is a Suzuki LTZ 400 with Arctic Cat stickers. So the wiring is probably the same as the LTZ 400.

Please do not post the same thing in three different forums. Does look like a fun event though, too bad I am on the other side of the country, that sounds like something I would like to attend.

Once again, please post the MAKE and MODEL of your atv, it will help us greatly to know exactly what you have. Check your float adjustment too, it sounds like you may be running the float bowl out of fuel. Make sure the tank vent is not blocked off. Also, you have dry stator(not surrounded by oil) then try spraying the carb cleaner around the crank seal there. Once again, an air leak can cause the draw through the carb to be insufficient to pull enough fuel through the jets, causing the bike have idle problems.

That's what I am here for, I need to find some way to use all the useless information that has logded itself in my brain. That is a nice truck though, that thing should be able to tow a 747 if you wanted to.

Nice work Joe, that must have been fun getting that thing un-stuck.

You need to be more specific in the description of your ATV, but ebay or a forum specific to your model of ATV would be a good place to start. I think this thread might be better placed in the Yamaha forum.

Incorrect, the prime position allows fuel to flow straight into the carb without the engine running, otherwise, if your carb is empty there would not be any way to get fuel into the carb since there would not be sufficient vacuum created by just cranking the starter.

Please provide the make and model of the machine, I am assuming it is a Polaris two stroke. It definately sounds like an air leak. This will cause the high idle because you are getting too much air. It will also cause hard starting because you are sucking air in through the leaky fitting, which reduces the draw through the carb and thus it has a harder time pulling fuel up through the jets. Also, something that is commonly overlooked when cleaning a carb is the float bowl vent. It is a long thin brass tube that protrudes upward into the top of the float bowl above the fuel level and vents through the bottom of the float bowl. Make sure that vent is clean, blowing compressed air through the holes should make sure it is clear.

The Ford Powerstroke diesel engines are made by Navistar (International), not Detroit. The old GM 6.5 Liter diesels were made by Detroit, as far as I know, that is the last Detroit diesel engine offered in a pickup.

The CDI will only change the timing curve, it won't affect the induction or fuel delivery, so you shouldn't have to change jetting. If you wan't to be sure your jetting is ok, google "plug chop". You will find instructions on how to read your plug to make sure your jetting is on.

I just put a '92 CR 250 ignition in the 500R, soo much easier to start now, and the top end performance is noticeably better.

I don't know that you would have too, but I think that it is a good idea to put an oil cooler on any air cooled machine.

I don't see anything but the same pic that is in your avatar. Still looks like a super nice ride though.

I have my butt on the seat or hanging off the side of it unless I am jumping, going though whoops or if I am being bounced around too much. I like to keep my center of gravity as low as possible because I am hauling as* most of the time.

I think you are on the right track, check your electrical connections, grounds, wires and connectors. If it were a rectifier/regulator, then you would probably have charging issues as well. Use a multimeter and check the voltage at the headlight plug. If it is ok, try replacing the bulb.

Good deal, I hope they get it worked out for you.

There are over sized pistons, but I don't know if there are any big-bore cylinder kits. I do know that there is a hotrods stroker kit from wiseco. That along with a 1 or 2mm larger piston might get you close to 400cc. There are suspension products available for most any ATV, including your Raptor.

Maybe we should get Admin to spring for the trips for everyone to get to one place and ride.

Tuning is very important when using a forced induction system. Make sure you start with a rich carb mixture. You will need to increase your jet sizes quite a bit to get the extra fuel you need to go with all the air that the turbo will be cramming into the motor. I would guess that the turbo kit should come with new jets, possibly a bigger carb too. If you don't get enough fuel, that motor will be toast in no time. As far as how it will run with the turbo system properly installed, I think that it will be something like a raped ape with rabies on steroids.