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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    Good stuff, glad it worked out.
  2. DirtDemon
    Sorry for the late response, I did not see this post until now, it must have been moved in from somewhere else. If a bracket was bent, or something was reassembled incorrectly, that could cause the problems you are having. I would look to see if there are any parts in the linkage that could possibly be put on differently, possibly a bracket that needs to be turned around. Maybe there is a bracket that could be bent a little and you can't tell because you have only seen it the way it is now. You might try bending something to help gain some more adjustment. I will be adding the year make and model to this thread title.
  3. DirtDemon
    Looks good, those wheels are bad as*.
  4. DirtDemon
    Sounds like you need to clean your carb. Have you posted this problem in our branded forum?
  5. DirtDemon
    I would just swap the stators and use the regulator. The problem is that the regulator is also a rectifier, which changes the A/C current that comes from the stator into D/C current, so the electrical systems are completely different. If you can swap the stator from the electric start motor into the pull start motor, you can just wire it up the way it is supposed to be.
  6. DirtDemon
    Unfortunately, he is sort of right. A timing light is the only sure fire way to check timing on any motor. On certain machines, if the CDI, stator and coil are not all part of a matched set, it can affect timing, and should be checked with a light. If you know you have a matched set, you can usually count on the marks scribed in the stator plate, but a light is the only way to be sure. Also, TrikeMaster, there is no need to be inflamatory here, this is a friendly forum, so please cool it down a bit. You can correct somebody without acting like a douche in the process.
  7. DirtDemon
    The fact that the machine shifts easily in low-range makes me less likely to think that a shift fork is the issue, but I would not rule it out as a possibility. You may be right about the problem being in the range selector. Could be that the gears aren't fully engaged into high range. That could be as simple as a linkage adjustment. However, it is also likely that the gears will naturally shift easier in low range because there is less tension on the tranny gears in low range. I would start with the most simple and least costly solutions first to rule them out before taking anything apart. Once again, I think that you will find that you will be able to come up with your own ideas once you get a manual to read through and get an understanding of how this machine works. You seem like an intelligent person judging by the few words you have posted here, so I think you will be able to figure it out ok. We will also be here to offer anything we can to help you out. Please keep us posted on your progress.
  8. DirtDemon
    It could be that there is too much oil in the motor, or you are leaking oil past the piston/rings or valve guides.
  9. DirtDemon
    Nice hats BB.
  10. DirtDemon
    Well good luck with it, given the rattle noise you described, it might be a best to leave it be until you figure out for sure what it is. The rattling may be a gear not fully engaged, also a sign of a bent shift fork or other internal tranny problem. It would be a shame to mess something up even worse by riding it before it gets fixed. Is the cold weather your reason for wanting to wait until springtime to work on it? It still may be worth your time to look at the ratchet mechanism, you do not have to split the case halves to see that. When you find a manual too look through, you will probably get a better understanding of what your problems could be.
  11. DirtDemon
    Read it again, I think some of that might have gone over your head.
  12. DirtDemon
    Sounds like you have a broken gear or woodruff key in the gearbox.
  13. DirtDemon
    Well good luck to you, I hope you can get that thing up and running again sooner than later. Let us know if you need anything.
  14. DirtDemon
    Do you have a title for that frame?
  15. DirtDemon
    I think you are right, the compression release may be your problem. I would check that before you tear the motor apart. If you do need to work on the motor, it would probably be easiest to work on it out of the machine.
  16. DirtDemon
    I would just swap the stator form the original motor into the new one. You could just keep the chargind system intact, that way you could run the lights without starting the vehicle. You could probably swap the starting system to the other motor by swapping some hardware with it, ie. starter, side cover, flywheel etc. If there is some reason you can't or don't want to do that, the wires that come from the stator would go to the ignition and the lights. The colors may be different, but the plugs are probably set up the same. If you have a diagram for each motors electrical, you should be able to figure out what goes where. As far as the regulator goes, if you don't have a charging system, you don't need it. I would just remove it from the bike if you aren't going to use the battery and charging system.
  17. DirtDemon
    Unfortunately, the most likely cause of your problem is a bent shift fork, and that would mean a complete teardown of the motor to fix. I don't think changing the oil viscosity would help any, I would stick with what Suzuki specifies for use in your climate. You might look at any bearings or bushings that are on the shift shaft or the ratchet mechanism that will be behind the side cover on the side of the motor opposite the shift lever. You may get lucky and find the problem there, but I think the fork is more likely to be the problem. Good luck, I would suggest a manual if you don't already have one.
  18. DirtDemon
    I scored a 96 as well, but I failed the color vision test. I passed the red/green test but my list of available jobs went from all of them to only a handful, and none of them were ones that I was interested in.
  19. DirtDemon
    I removed some of the content of post #4 because the author started a new thread with the same question. I also removed content from post #5 because it pertained to the info that I removed from #4.
  20. DirtDemon
    Sounds electrical to me, could have something to do with the rev limiter malfuntioning, or it could be a switch like Ajmboy said. Check the wiring too, you could have damaged the insulation on a wire and you may have a short somewhere.
  21. DirtDemon
    What makes you think that putting the tracks on caused the hole? You say the hole was close part of the exhaust, I would assume that it was heat from the exhuast that melted the plastic. If adding the tracks is what made the difference, that would mean that the added load is making the engine run hotter. You may want to beef up your cooling system, run a higher octane fuel, or get a fuel controller so you can richen up the air/fuel mix.
  22. DirtDemon
    Those are some nice wheels right there, do you wan't to see what they look like on my quad? If you send them to me I can show you.
  23. DirtDemon
    Ow my head hurts. I agree with Ajmboy, you probably have an electrical issue. Start checking the wiring and switches in the override curcuit/rev limiter curcuit.
  24. DirtDemon
    It is definately a good idea to stop riding when your machine starts making strange noises. It is unfortunate that you had to learn that the hard way. How are you with a wrench? It would save you alot of money and could be a good learning experience to do it yourself. Maybe you have a friend or relative that is good with machines who could help you out. With a manual, the right tools, and some help if needed most engine work is not that hard to do. Most machine work would still need to be done at a shop, but if you could disassemble and reassemble the machine yourself you would save a ton of $$$. You can always turn to us for advice as well, like Swampcat said, ask as many questions as you like, that is why we hang out in this forum, to talk ATV's and help people like yourself who have questions that need answers.
  25. DirtDemon
    There are tests you can do with a multimeter, I would suggest buying a manual. If will have directions and specs for the electrical tests you need to do, and it will have other info that you will need to do motor work, like torque specs and wear limits. The first thing I would test is wiring, connections, grounds, and switches. There are a few switches that could be keeping your ignition from even being turned on if they aren't working properly.

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