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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    I would not suspect that air leaking in through the float bowl gasket would be the problem since the float bowl is vented to equalize pressure and allow fuel to freely enter the bowl. However, if the fuel level is too low, then maybe, but the real problem there would be that the float is out of adjustment. I would be more suspect of the lower part of the side cover leaking, that is if you noticed this while spraying on the left hand side of the carb. Either way, I think it would be a good idea to replace all of the gaskets/o-rings in the carb since you need to get the missing spring and washer anyway. While you have the carb apart, check the diaprhragm at the top of the carb, make sure every thing is clean, pay special attention to ALL passages. It is good to blow them out with compressed air as long as it is COMPLETELY disassembled, you don't want to blow out any parts that may still be hanging around. There is also a small filter at the top of the float valve, you may as well get a new one of those too, it is only a couple of dollars. BTW, did you ever check the valve lash?
  2. DirtDemon
    Use a multi meter to track down the opening in the circuit. I still suspect the starter switch or neutral safety switch. Trace the path of the starting curcuit from the battery to the starter, you should be able to find the correct wires by following back from the wires that come out of the start button or key switch. The circuit will run through the neutral safety switch at some point so you should be able to find that too. You can test the start button by taking it apart and manually touching the two wires together. If that doesn't work, just keep moving down either wire untill you find the problem.
  3. DirtDemon
    A Raptor 350 is a good, reliable, starter quad, but it really lacks in the performance department. It will not even come close to keeping up with an experienced rider on a Banshee or any 450 unless you are riding in trails so tight that you can't get out of 1st gear. I am guessing that he is looking at the Raptor 350 because they are relatively cheap, I think a 400EX or LTZ 400 would be a better buy IMHO.
  4. DirtDemon
    Don't order a Banshee manual, a Banshee is nothing like a Warrior. Neither the motor or electrical systems share any similarities aside from displacement. You can find a manual for a Warrior if you look for it. Try Ebay. I hope you haven't ordered it already. I would just find a used carb on Ebay or at a salvage yard, along with a rebuild kit, that will be far easier and probably even just as cheap or cheaper than trying to repair the damage.
  5. DirtDemon
    Sounds like a sticking float. When you do the carb re-build you will be able to make sure it is adjusted properly and the kit should have a new float valve, that could help too. Make sure to give it a good cleaning too while you have it apart. Blow out all holes with compressed air. Make sure your air filter is clean too.
  6. DirtDemon
    Good luck.
  7. DirtDemon
    No need tell people that their ATV sucks, lets keep things polite please.
  8. DirtDemon
    I had to go with B.B. because he was the first one to actually post a pic that complied to the original guidelines. Plus, I really like the double hat.
  9. DirtDemon
    That looks like a B.A. machine, how do you like that seat? Looks comfy?
  10. DirtDemon
    I would totaly use one of those if I had a big enough yard. I could get my lawn mowed in no time at 90mph.
  11. DirtDemon
    That looks like a shift fork guide bar. It looks to be broken off, as it should have the same taper on both ends. I would tear that motor down before you ride it again. If any more parts start floating around in the tranny it could cause major damage. Could you please also post the year of your machine?
  12. DirtDemon
    Paddles are the best way to go for deep snow IMO. If you are riding on hard packed snow, the best thing to do is take an old set of tires, drill small holes and put bolts through them. Make sure to use lock nuts and put washers on both sides. Then put some tire slime inside and ride around to help seal them up.
  13. DirtDemon
    I second Ajmboy's opinion on this matter. I would also inspect all wires in between as well.
  14. DirtDemon
    Good luck to you, please keep us up to date on your progress.
  15. DirtDemon
    Good luck.
  16. DirtDemon
    First thing I would do is replace any of the parts that you have noticed are missing. Without the spring on an adjustment screw, the screw will not stay where you put it. A high idle could be caused by incorrect idle adjustment, which would not cause the other problems. The idle should be set when the engine has reached normal operating temp. It could aslo be caused by incorrect ignition timing, or an air leak, both of which could cause the hard starting issue. Air leaks are dangerous, so I would start by checking for leaks by spraying WD-40 around the carb and intake boot and listen for changes in the sound of the engine. If you find no leaks, check the timing and do a compression test. If the timing is off adjust it. If your compression test shows low then you may as well start tearing the motor apart, that could be caused by worn cylinder bore/piston/rings or valve sealing issues. In most motorcycle and ATV engines, 100psi or less is really an indication that the motor has little life left. Quick carbon buildup indicates oil in the combustion chamber or an overly rich air/fuel mix. If the smoke goes away after a short while, that points more toward leaky valve guides or carb float leaking oil or gas into the cylinder while the machine sits, but still could be a piston/cylinder problem as well.
  17. DirtDemon
    Welcome sir, now lets see some pictures of those rides.
  18. DirtDemon
    NGK is the plug most recommended by Japanese engine manufacturers. That is what I always run.
  19. DirtDemon
    Another problem I have seen with vacuum powered fuel pumps is the wrong kind of hose is being used. Regular soft rubber fuel hoses can reduce the signal strength, a the proper hose is a flexible but somewhat stiff hose that will not collapse or expand under vacuum or pressure. But, I would start with what Profil said, there is no use looking past the carb untill you have ruled that out as a problem. A float that is stuck shut will not allow gas to enter the carb, nor will gummed up fuel passages.
  20. DirtDemon
    Check your timing chain and valve lash, also check the ignition timing. I would also get a guage and do a compression test so you can be sure that you have enough compression.
  21. DirtDemon
    Check the air filter, timing, valve lash, timing chain/tensioner and the inside of the carb. If it has not been run for a while, then the old gas in the carb could have gummed up. Check to see if it runs better with the choke on or off.
  22. DirtDemon
    Makes me wish I lived in PA.
  23. DirtDemon
    That is the procedure for adjusting the timing. If there is any error made in the process, or the guage is out of calibration it could result in an incorrect adjustment. Therefore it is best to check the timing with a light before and after the adjustment is made. Here is what my manual for says for checking the timing on a CR 500. The same process is described for adjustment as you have specified in your manual, but mine says to check the timing with a tach and timing light.
  24. DirtDemon
    Best of luck to you.
  25. DirtDemon
    Sounds like you could definately use a comlpete service, change fluids and check any adjustments like you said. You may see your issues improve just from doing some much needed routine maintinence. Good luck.

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