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Hi I have a 2002 arctic cat 500 auto.starts and runs but will not go forward or reverse.the outer clutches/pulleys and belt spins but it will not move when put in gear.Any ideas as to what to to check for?clutckes,broken gear???? thanks for any ideas..

I have the vin # but when trying to get a seat cover the seats dont look anything alike

:wacko:[/size] My Cat will start, barely. It idles like it is about to die. If I move the choke or turn the throttle (even just barely) it kills. HELP IDEAS? SUGGESTIONS

Im new here Hello to everyone. I have 05 Eiger 400 4x4 Automatic that want go into forward gear. I can run all day long in reverse without any issues. I took the engine out and the front and rear drive shafts turn very free both directions if this will help. With the engine out and seems to be free in both directions its got me thinking could it be in the automatic shifter. maybe a solenoid or something like that. I would really appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.

I was riding my wheeler the other day shut it off to go in for lunch and when I came back out to start it again all it would do is crank over. Tried a new plug but still nothing. I have power to both wires that go to the coil. I am wondering were i go from here?

hey guys my primary clutch the inner fixed half is loose and wiggles around but i cannot tell whats wrong what should i be checking according to schematics all the parts are right

My bike was running fine until the float got stuck and was leaking fuel. I took the carb appart cleaned it and it has never run the same. i tried to fix it with a tune up kit. The bike runs, but when i give it gas it gargles like its getting to much gas... can anyone help me out!

I am in desired need of the torque spec and wether it is rotating or torque to yield. I have a manual but all it says is take the diff to a dealership. I am a mechanic by trade and I am to cheap to get someone else to do it. I have asked all of the dealerships in my area for the spec and they all say bring it in and we will set it for me for $100.00. I don't think so. So if anyone has the spec for the front diff on this quad it would be very much appreciated if you would let me know. Thanks Your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

2006 400 auto-engine begins to stumble/retard ign. after riding various amounts,all speed ranges-ONLY HAPPENS IN HIGH RANGE-NOT LOW RANGE . Any ideas? Owners manual say there is a rpm limiter in the cdi box, but it occurs mostly at 15-30 mph.

ok so its hard to start but will sit there n idle when u hit the gas response fine but it randomly turns off like u turn key off happens alot when u let off gas n starts to idle again the plug sparks like 5 times n then misses a few time then hits 5 or 6 times then misses few times

Hello people, my king quad has been jumping in to neutral while at slow speed engine braking if i blip the throttle it re-engages, my dealer cant see any problem when he opened it up, does anybody come across this, is there a sensor for the engine braking system, thanx....

I have a 2003 Arctic Cat 500 Green automatic. I have just put in the third seal in the front where the drive line goes into the rear end. Put it together spun the tires, while it was up on the stand and no leakage. Took it out for 1/2 mile test ride and I'll be dammed if it wasn't leaking again when I got back. First time I replaced the seal I didn't use OEM. So I ordered two seals from Arctic Cat and Hubby replaced the second one. He isn't as mechanical as I am so thought he messed up. I spent 3 hours on replacing it this time. Made sure all parts were cleaned and fit good. Now it is leaking again. Am I missing something here? Is there a vent for the rear end that may be plugged and causing excess pressure to make the gear grease run out around the inside of the seal? I am open for suggestions.

I have a 2003 Suzuki Vinson 500 Auto. I recently cleaned & rebuilt the carb, as well as, the petcock. Now it starts, idles and generally carburates well. My problem is that it will not rev out and only runs about 30MPH in high range. It runs smoothly from stop all the way up to top speed and it does not cut out, pop, or anything at full throttle. I am stumped! Any help would be appreciated.

I just purchased this machine as a brand new machine from a dealer as a left over, full warranty and 18 miles on it. At an idle you can hear a rattling noise which is disturbing to a person who used to be an auto mechanic. I got out my stethoscope (pry bar up to my ear) and the sound appears to be coming from the rear part of the transmission where the clutch basket would be. I read somewhere else on the internet that its the bevel gear and its normal and I just want to make sure. My machine is still under warranty so I can take it back if needed but if anyone with a Vinson can verify that their machine is/was making the same noise I will feel better about it and may still take it to the shop for an inspection. So far I am very happy with the machine, the handling is great, the power is more than what I need and its ability to go just about anywhere its wheels are pointed are all pluses for me. Last weekend I pulled out 2 swamped quads at the same time so it has some pulling power in low range. My only complaint so far was the rear brake squeaking which I have seemed to fix by disassembling the rear brake and applying anti-seize to the contact points on the caliper for the brake pads. If I had to complain about one more thing it would be the the gear ratio in reverse, its just not as low as I would like and it does not get lower even in low range.

I believe my cooling fan switch has gone bad, the dash goes out except the over heating symbol flashes but the engine is not hot to the touch. So i used a jumper wire from hte accessory side of the ignition switch, so the fan runs if the key is on. A new switch is about $110.00. Has anyone else done this, will it be ok to run like this as long as i check for overheating manually? Or should I replace the switch?

Does anybody make a full snorkel kit for an 08 Arctic Cat 400 Auto? I've read a little bit about making your own, but with my lack of experience, I'd prefer a kit with a nice set of instructions.

We have added an automatic image resizer for images that are included in the posts. It will automatically resize an oversized image to fit within the post. If the image is larger than 700px wide, it will resize it down to 700px. This is so we can view posts easier without distortion of pages, when large images are added. :smile:

I didn't know they have a baby brother of the Rhino 660! MSRP* $7,999 (Hunter Green) Available from October 2006 $7,999 (Red) Available from October 2006 $8,449 Hunter (Hardwoods HD Camo) Available from October 2006 Engine Type 421cc liquid-/oil-cooled w/fan, SOHC four-stroke single Bore x Stroke 84.5mm x 75mm Compression Ratio 10:1 Carburetion Mikuni 33mm BSR Ignition DC – CDI Starting System Electric Transmission Yamaha Ultramatic® V-Belt/H, L, N, R Engine Braking All Wheel Drive Train Yamaha On-Command® push button 3-way locking differential, 2WD, 4WD, locked 4WD; Shaft Chassis Suspension/Front Independent double wishbone, 7.3” travel w/5-way preload adjustment Suspension/Rear Independent double wishbone, 7.3” travel w/5-way preload adjustment Brakes/Front Dual hydraulic disc, twin pistons Brakes/Rear Hydraulic disc, self-adjusting, shaft mounted Tires/Front AT25x8-12 NHS Tires/Rear AT25x10-12 NHS Dimensions L x W x H 113.6” x 54.5” x 73.0” Wheelbase 75.2” Turning Radius 153.5” Ground Clearance 12.1" Fuel Capacity 7.9 gal. Dry Weight 1038 lb. Bed Capacity 400 lb. Towing Capacity 1212 lb. Other DC Outlet Standard Instrumentation Fuel sight gauge, 4WD indicator lights Lighting Dual 30W Krypton multireflector headlights & dual 21/5W brake light Warranty 6 Month (Limited Factory Warranty) More info at http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/products/modelspecs/441/0/specs.aspx