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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. Since motorcylcles and atv's don't use a pcv valve to vent crankcase pressure, there is just a straight ventline that goes into the air box, so a little bit of oil in the air box is somewhat normal, if you over fill the oil it will make it a bit worse. Worn rings or valve guides will pressurize the crankcase more than usuall and you will get an abnormal amount of oil in the airbox. If you have tipped the machine over, that could cause oil to run straight through the vent hose. Please post the year make and model of the machine you are talking about.
  2. The last two weekends I have been taking equipment home from work and turning a friends' blackberry infested field into a little track. I should have some pics and maybe some video tomorrow. My camera isn't working, but my buddies girlfriend was taking pictures and video of us riding around a little bit, and some of me working on the track with a backhoe. I am hoping to get things finnished up tomorrow, it is still a bit rough and hard to ride on, but it is coming along ok.
  3. I am sure there is a test for that, either get a manual, talk to someone who has one, or ask a dealer about the test specs and procedure.
  4. Thanks, I was pretty sure that the 400 was not available with the electric shift.
  5. Good stuff, now all you have left to do is go back to the first Polaris dealer you took it too and kick the manager in the man bag.
  6. I thought this was supposed to be a comarison between the Grizzly and Sportsman, you posted the same thing as in your YFZ vs Outlaw thread.
  7. The Yamaha will be quicker and more nimble, the Polaris will still be plenty fast, it has an incredible ride and alot ground clearance, but it is heavy.
  8. Hope it turns out well for you. Please keep us posted with the results, I am curious to know what they find.
  9. Check to make sure that the spark plug boot is securely connected to the coil wire. I assume you have checked to make sure the plug isn't fouled. Also, check for power at all the switches and components in the ignition system that should have current supplied to them to make sure the power is getting to them.
  10. Once again, please include the engine size of your machine. I do have a friend that has an '04 Rancher, I can check and see if his does the same thing when you turn the key on. I will probably see him tomorrow or saturday.
  11. There should be a line up dowel in the groove on the piston, make sure the gaps in the rings sit on either side of that dowel. Then you should be able to use your hands to pinch the rings in tight as you slide the cylinder back on over the piston, it isn't the easiest thing to do, but it can be done. I have done it several times, and I actually, think it is easier that using a ring compressor. I have one and unless I am working a car engine, I don't use it.
  12. Yup, if you have a multimeter, get it out. I would start with the kill switch and the key switch, then start moving down the line and test to make sure that the ignition components are recieving power.
  13. Check the connection between the coil wire and plug boot. The plug boot should have a scew in the end that attatches to the coil wire. Unscrew the boot, make sure there is good, fresh wire at the end of the coil wire, clip it back a bit if you need to with a pair of diagonal cutters. When you have made sure you have good wire right at the end of the coil wire, firmly push the boot back on and gently screw it back on. You want it on well, but don't turn it too tight as that will damage the wires inside the coil wire. That is the one of the simplest scenarios and it wont cost you anything to check it so I would start with that. Beyond that, study that diagram that MWKE provided and start looking for damaged or loose connections, if you still are having problems, you will probably need to do tests on the ignition components. A good service manual will give you specs and directions on how to do these tests. I would definately check out the link that Ajmboy posted for you.
  14. Welcome, your username makes me think you are a Suzuki guy, am I correct?
  15. Could be rings, valves, or a head gasket. It is a bit odd that you would be burning oil in a quad that is that new. Have you been doing services regularly? If so, and it is still under warranty, I would let Yamaha deal with it.
  16. Not unless you ride it wide open on the pavement alot.
  17. Yes, a repair manual is a must, it has information that you need when working on a specific machine, important stuff like torque specs and such. The key components in a routine rebuild of a two stroke are piston, rings, cylinder hone or bore, crank seals, reeds, and ofcourse, all necessary gaskets. All this can be done without splitting the lower engine case. You will want to check the crank, connecting rod, and all the bearings that go with them. If any of those need replaced, you will need to split the case halves. You will also probably want to check the centrifugal clutch and the other components of the drive system.
  18. Please include the engine size in your next post so I can add it to the thread title. I am not sure what you mean by angle sensor, but I do know that there are solenoids and mechanical actuators that could be malfuntioning. I would first try locating the solenoids responsible for sending power to the actuators. There will probably be one for upshifting and one for downshifting. If you can determine which one controls the upshift mechanism, try manually applying power from the battery to the lead that feeds the actuator. If it doesn't shift, the actuator is likely the problem. If it does shift, then try applying power to the low current input wire that activates the solenoid. If that makes the vehicle shift the problem is between the switch and the solenoid. If it does not, then the problem is likely the solenoid. A repair manual will be helpful, if not necessary, either way, I recommend getting one. BTW, I am moving this thread to the Honda ATV forum.
  19. So, how do you like the Rubicon BB?
  20. Yeah, it was a really good deal, it runs strong and the oil leak was just an improperly installed valve cover gasket. The idiot couln't figure out why it was leaking so much oil, so he just kept tightening the valve cover bolts because he couldn't figure out why it kept leaking, so he sold it to me because he couldn't figure it out. I took it home and when I finally got around to checking it out, it took me 30 seconds to find the leak, you could plainly see that the gasket was not seated properly in the groove.
  21. Black smoke usually means you are running way too rich, the fact that you say it dies when you choke it, supports that idea. You may be jetted way too rich, or you may have a clogged air cleaner. Also, I am pretty sure that machine has an oil injection system for the 2-stroke mix. Unless that system has been properly bypassed, you should not be running a pre-mix, just add oil to the oil tank and gas to the gas tank.
  22. Check the kill switch and key switch. If neither are the problem, I would buy a manual, or at least call a dealer service tech and try to get the testing specs from them.
  23. Good luck.
  24. How is your air cleaner? Have you checked the valve lash? The manual is a good idea.
  25. Practice makes perfect, and a good weld can be stronger than the original material if done right. I have welded a steering stem before and it worked fine. You just need to make sure the bar clamps are in line with the splines at the bottom of the stem. You will want to bevel the ends before you weld, leave a small gap between the ends so you get 100% penetration. Use two levels to get the lineup correct, put one on the bar clamps and one on the splined end on the small surface where there are no splines. Put the long end in a vice and hold the other end level while you carefully tack the two pieces together. But if you aren't a good welder, I would take it somewhere else or just buy a new one like Bot said. I am going to move this project thread to the project room.
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