DirtDemon

Now that is different, dealer mechanics are thieving bastards, and IMO, not needed. Repair manuals allow those of us who are capable to do things ourselves, without relying on a mechanic.

Check ebay or a machine specific forum, those will probably be your best chances at finding a used one. The whole unit is not available new, but each of the individual parts are.

Definately could be the problem, the flywheel on that machine is not only the rotating part of the stator assembly, but it is the starter ringear as well. If you take the cover the right hand side of the motor, you should be able to see the starter ringgear/flywheel. If you take the bolt off the end of the crankshaft at the center of the flywheel, you should be able to see the woodruff key that keeps the flywheel alligned properly with the crank shaft. This woodruff key is also necessary for the electric starter motor to properly turn the motor over. There is not likely a drain on the bottom of the motor, if you want to get the fuel out of the crankcase, it would be easiest to get the machine started and let it burn the fuel off, but you don't want it to sit in there too long, so if you can't get the motor to start soon, remove the plug, turn the fuel off and keep cranking the motor. Eventually the fuel should get pushed out of the exhaust ports and spark plug hole.

Not necessarily, if the old clutch was slipping a bit becuase of worn discs or weak springs, you might not notice any problem with the centrifugal clutch because the drive clutch was slipping.

Could be frozen/sticking clutch or belt sheaves. It would be rather odd if your belt had worn that prematurely, but not entirely impossible I suppose.

If your float needle is not blocking off the fuel properly, or your float is stuck, you can fill up the crankcase if you don't shut the fuel off. It could also be filling up because the machine isn't starting and gas keeps going into the crankcase without being burned. The flooded crankcase could be what is fouling your plug, but you will need to figure out why the crankcase if full of fuel. Good luck. Another thing you might check is the flywheel key, if it is sheared off, you will get spark, just not at the right time. Poor crank seals can also cause hard starting.

There are alot of companies that make big bore kits for your machine, just do some research and figure out which one will give you what you want and fits your budget, keep in mind, you usually get what you pay for. Ebay will have several different kits. On that note, $25 or $30 is not that much to pay for a repair manual that can potentially save you hours of searching forums for answers or save you from making a fatal error and ending up with a blown motor. I don't get why so many people are looking for this free manual handout. If nobody wants to pay for them, they won't get printed anymore. I say just suck it up, pay the money and buy the darn book.

Well the leaking gas tells me you need a new fuel vavle. The leaking fuel valve could also be causing a vacuum leak that is causing the engine to run lean and therefore hot. I would start by fixing the fuel vavle problem. The oil may problem may be a head gasket, bad vavle guides, or worn rings. The first thing you need to do is clean the motor off, and see if you can tell exactly where the oil is leaking from. If it is coming out of the exhuast itself, the head gasket or even just the valve cover gasket. Knowing where the oil is getting out will help us help you figure out the problem.

Use lots of PB Blaster, and give the bolt a good smack from the nut side to try and shock the threads loose. You might try a better impact gun, most common ones only generate around 350 ft/lbs of torque. I use one that makes about 750, not too many bolts will stay on with that thing whacking away it them. If the nut don't come off, the bolt will snap and you can get the hub off, just replace the bolt.

There are round inspection caps on the front and rear of the valve cover that you can remove to check and adjust the vavle lash. Check the vavles with the motor at TDC on the compression stroke, this will leave the vavle springs unloaded. Slip a feeler guage in between the valve stem and adjuster bolt, the size of the guage that fits snug, but not tight will tell you what the adustment is at. If they need to be adjusted, then you loosen the jam nut around the adjuster screw and move the screw up or down to loosen or tighten the vavles, then, without allowing the adjuster screw to move, re-tighten the jam nut. You may need to refer to the owners manual or a repair manual for proper valve clearance specs.

You may need check the centrifugal part of the clutch for worn or weak springs or try turning the idle down. It sounds like the centrifugal clutch is engaging too easily.

X2

Thought so, that is way up there. I haven't been that far north in a few years. The last time I was that far up there, I was on my way to Canada for a work thing, but we went over at the Blaine crossing on I-5. It is nice up that way, are there many good areas to ride?

I would inspect the float for anything on the float body and the inside of the carb that could be causing it to hang up and also look for holes in the float, if it begins to get a little fuel inside, it wont float like it is supposed to. You may not be able to see any holes or cracks, so it may be a good idea to take the float and submerge it in gasoline for a few hours and see if it ends up with any gas in the float. I would also take a look at the float stopper, make sure the rubber tip is soft and undamaged and make sure the seat area is clean and unubstructed. Another thing I would look for is debris in the fuel or float bowl.

Another problem within the same problem does not necessitate a new thread. It is actually more helpful to have all of your posts the responses in one thread. Diagnosing a problem over an internet forum is difficult, the more info available to someone, the better. I will merge this thread with your old one, so everything is together. That being said, I am thinking that there is something physically broken or damaged inside the gearbox, a shift fork is possible, so I think you are on the right track. Unfortunately, this would mean taking the gearbox apart, however, from there it should be fairly easy to see your problem. Good luck.

My solution to the winter battery problem is to ride year round, works great.

That's near Lynden isn't it?

You're damn right sir. I will be bringing sexy back with my QC onesie.

When you cleaned the carb did you take it completely apart and clean every single nook, cranny and hole? There are alot of passages, and all of them need to be completely clear. Another common mistake people make is when they put the pilot screw back in, they screw it all the way in. This screw has a needle shaped end and has a spring on it. It should be turned about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated. This screw being improperly adjusted could very well be your problem. You should also check your valve lash, not only could this be the source of your problem, but it is generally a good idea to check the vavles when you buy any used machine. Good luck.

Welcome to QC, what part of Washington are you in, I am in Bonney Lake, which if you don't already know is somewhat close to the Puyallup/Tacoma area. I noticed you have stock tires on in the pics, have you tried the Holeshots yet? I run the GNCC's too, I love them, I will probably buy them again when it is time for new tires.

There is an adjuster bolt, you may need to back it off a bit because it may have been adjusted as the old clutch got worn. Another possible cause for your problem could be that the idle is too high, have you noticed any change in the idle since you did the work on your quad? Another possibility is that the springs in the clutch shoe for the centrifugal part of the clutch are getting weak, causing the clutch to engage early. I would start with the adjusment bolt, check your Clymer manual for its location and proper adjustment procedures.

How do you like the YFZ compared to the Banshee? I'm sure the handling is way better on the YFZ, but it is hard to beat the snappy power of a good 2 stroke, and the Banshee was one of the best.

Now that is a good idea right there.

I have no idea, there is at least one other KFX 450 rider that I know of on the site, maybe he will chime in with something. What I do know, is that I run stage 1 Hotcams in my LT-R 450 and they work great. I would ceartainly recommend them if you want to go that route. Also, any cam upgrade is going to be more effective with upgraded exhuast, intake, and a fuel controller.

Onesie.