DirtDemon

When you say it cuts out, do you mean that the motor cuts out, or the quad just stops gaining speed and won't go any faster. If the motor is cutting out, then that would point towards a fuel obstruction, or loss of spark. If it is just topping out and won't go as fast as it normally does, then I would look toward the drive belt and clutches.

I wish I had snow to remove:sad:

How heavy is the person riding it? Those little quads generally have around a 100lb weight limit. If you aren't overloading it, I would check the valves and do a compression test. Those Chinese quads are prone to chronic problems, I have never seen one last more that 5 or 6 rides before something went wrong. I don't want to be a spoil sport, but the best thing you can do with that thing is get rid of it, make it someone elses problem.

I would have to guess that you may have a blown fuse in the starter curcuit.

Your best chance for a good answer to that question would be to contact customer service at motion pro.

That sucks, I always hate to hear stories like that. I would call everyone I could at AC and complain until they hang up on you, then call back and complain some more, this time with lots of yelling. If you can't get them to back their product, tell them off and move on. $4500 is alot of money, you could save a ton of that by buying the parts yourself from an online parts dealer, and doing the work yourself, or have someone you know and trust do it for you. A dealer will over charge you for parts and their labor costs are ludicrous. Good luck, I hope you can find a reasonable solution to this problem.

That's a good stategy B.B. Don't let anyone pick on you for being a Lions fan Bio, some people don't understand what it is like to be loyal to your home team, even if they don't win all the time. For the record, Barry Sanders = best running back ever. I am a diehard Seahawks fan, nobody around here talked any crap in the '05 season, but as soon as they started losing games, the fair-weathered fans all jumped off the wagon. Back on topic, I have always been a Steelers fan, so I am rooting for them. I know, they may or may not have stolen the SuperBowl from us, but it wasn't there fault that the referees made some poor calls and missed some others. It did take me a few years to start liking them again, but I am over it now.

It would help alot to know what exactly we are talking about here. Can you provide more information about the machine? I will agree with BioWare, good carb cleaning never hurts, especially if the machine has been sitting for a while without being run.

Have you looked on Ebay?

You are right, there is no stopping people from taking advantage of free stuff. I also agree that if you can find something that is just as good for cheaper, you should go for it. You are right, competition does breed advancement and better choices for the consumer. All of this, however does not support the idea of taking for free, something that is meant to be paid for. I do realize that some things are just a plain ripoff, and I would not fault someone for taking advandage of free stuff in certain situations, kind of a double standard, I know. But some things, like a service manual, are not a rip-off, they are well worth the money that the publisher asks for them. I don't want you to feel like I am trying to push an idea down your throat, I am simply arguing my case, debating if you will. Please don't take my words as disrespectful towards you guys. That is not how they are meant. If you find what you are looking for, and don't have to pay for it, more power to you. Just because I don't necessarily agree with it, doesn't make it wrong for you. This is a free country, that is what makes it so great, we aren't bound by law to see things the same way. I will add this though, I have paid for a PDF download manual to save money and time, and I hate it, I had to run into the house, print out a page or two to take with me when I needed something. I guess if I had it on a laptop that I could take out in the shop with me, it would not be so bad, but then I would be getting that all dirty. I have found that it is nice to have the actual book in front of me when I am working on stuff.

Good to know, I think that will open up the contest to more members, maybe even myself if I can find or take a good pic in the next month.

I wish I would have spent a few more $$ and gotten a more popular one, ie. the PC, because of the availability of suggested fuel maps to go with your specific mods, is would be nice to have a general starting point like that. Poking around blindly at the thing to get it fine tuned is kind of a pain, like jetting a carb, but at least I get to push buttons instead of change jets.

I merged your two threads together, no need to post another thread for the same issue. You want all the info in one place, it makes it easier for people to get an idea of what exactly is wrong if they can read the whole discussion. Did you check the vavles or do a compression test as I suggested before? The smoking could be bad valve stem seals like Raptor8 said, or you could have worn piston/rings. Also, as Raptor8 mentioned, the noise coming from the top end is probably your vavles needing to be adjusted. The only way you are going to know for sure though is to take a look under the cover. Good luck.

Does the pic have to be from an actuall race, or could it be a recreational race between friends?

There should be suction, then a burst of pressure that should blow your finger off the hole. The lack of compression could be anything from a broken timing chain to a bent or broken valve, a hole in the piston, or completely blown rings, I could go on and on. My advice stands, check the valve train first, it is the easiest thing to get to, just remove the valve cover. Good luck, hopefully the problem is something simple.

Because $35 for a Clymer, or $80 for a factory manual is well worth the money, you have all the info that you need, without having to take it to a mechanic. Like I said, with this rash of people trying to get them for free, the good folks who print these manuals will either stop making them, or raise prices because everyone is looking for a handout. Then, those of us who don't mind paying for a product that is worth it's cost pay for everyone else's freeloading. If you can't fork out $35 for a book that can save you thousands of dollars in labor costs, how can you afford to buy the parts you need? BTW, JP, if you are going to take your motor apart, you will need a repair manual, unless you want to guess on all the wear tolerances, torque specs and sequences. You can destroy a motor by putting it together wrong. Using the manual for a 400EX is not going to give you accurate info for your LTZ, just because the motors are the same size doesn't mean anything. They are completely different.

I hear you. As long as you have a decent mechanical inclination and can follow instructions, you should do ok with a good repair manual and some help from your favorite ATV forum. If you have friends that are good with a wrench, you can learn from them too. Everyone learns what they know from somewhere.

I would never let anyone work on any of my machines, not only are mechanics too expensive, I don't trust most of them either. That is not to say there aren't good mechanics out there, I just prefer to do things myself.

You can't go wrong with anything made by Honda, they will run forever if you treat them right. That is not to say that Yamaha, Kawasaki, or Suzuki wouldn't be a good choice too. Personally, I would at least sit on a few different machines before you buy. Being comfortable on the machine is as important as anything.

After you check the air filter, check your vavles.

What gives you the idea that there is no compression? I would start by taking the vavle cover off and checking the valve train, make sure the vavles are properly adjusted, cams are still bolted down and the timing chain is still tight. If you find nothing wrong there, drain the oil and check fore metal debris. If you find chunks in the oil, then I would just keep tearing the motor apart until you find the problem. If not, then I would at least do an actual compression test before taking the rest of the motor down. You might try removing the side covers on either side of the crankcase and check the clutch and flywheel/magneto assemblies for signs of damage that could be causing the clunking noise before taking the head off.

I use the same fuel controller on my LT-R, it is fully adjustable and will easily be able to compensate for the extra airflow.

Not every machine has an override switch, but most do have a reverse gear rev limiter I think that is what you are speaking of though. The override should be on every machine, they are really nice to have, the limiter can be a pain at times.

The rep I spoke to at Rockymountain told me that they were addressing the problem they were having with the rivets, but she wasn't sure when the new pipes would be hitting the shelves. Sounds like you got a good one. Like I said, performance wise, it worked great, it just started coming apart on me.

Bending that tab is how you adjust the float setting, you should get the float adjusment specs and make sure you set it properly, that way you don't have to keep taking it apart and screwing with it. I kind of figured that was already taken care of, we suggested adjusting the float back in August. Did you try holding down the reverse override button? Just curious if that did anything to help.