DirtDemon

I would try just turning the choke off before it loads up and dies. Did this problem start right after you had the motor rebuilt? If so, I would suspect that something he did may have caused this problem. If you can still get ahold of this guy, I would ask him if he changed anything like the carb settings and jetting. A pilot screw adjustment might help your problem. Tight valves can cause hard starting, you may want to check your valve lash too. Make sure your air filter is clean and a new spark plug wouldn't hurt any either. How old is your fuel?

Hey there face-first, we don't really need that kind of attitude here. If you have something positive to add to our forum, you are more than welcome here. If you want to be a jerk, then I don't think we need your input.

That would probably do it too, depending on how much over-rev you get, you may even be able to get your low end back by dropping your front sprocket down to stock size and still be able to stay over 80 on the top end.

Whatever you are trying to swap, the easiest way to know what will fit is to look up your part on a microfiche somewhere write down the part # and then start checking other years of that model or maybe even other models to see of the part #'s are the same.

If you figure out how the relay is wired, you can test the relay by tripping the signal tab. It recieves either a 12v+ charge when the start button is pushed, or it is connected to ground when the button is pushed. You can test the switch by checking for continuity when the button is pushed, if you can find a spot in the wires running out of the switch where there is connectors or something, you can test them at that point. Another thing you might want to do is just inspect the wires for damage or loose connections.

There should be adjustment nuts on the brake cable, just back them off until there is just a little bit of slack in the brake pedal and the brakes aren't dragging anymore.

I did try calling them once, I left a message, but never got a call back. I am sure there aren't any of those motors around that I could get my hands on anyhow. It was just curious to know if you have ever heard of that motor?

Valves out of adjustment maybe, your idle could just be set too low, could be a small air leak in the intake somewhere causing it to run lean at an idle.

I would search the web for places that rebuild ATV shocks, you should be able to get the seals on the shock replaced for a decent price. The quad looks like it is in excellent shape, you definately don't see alot of those old 250 Quadsports around.

Are you sure the battery isn't just getting weak?

Sounds like damaged wires are most likely your biggest problem. You can wire in a toggle switch, but I think I would just try to replace the damaged wires with new ones and use the stock switch. If you take the switch apart, you should be able to un-solder the old wires and solder new wires in, you may also want to clean up the contacts in the switch while you have it open.

The labor to install that kit will probably cost more than the kit itself. Call a shop and ask them to give you a quote. You can run pump gas on a 12.5 : 1 piston, but it might not be a bad idea to mix a little race gas in there to keep temps down and avoid any pre-detonation. I know nothing about what kind of carb you should run, if the carb from a TRX 450R is a couple millimeters bigger than your stock carb and it fits, that might be your ticket. You may want to get ahold of a place that builds Polaris race motors and ask them for some info.

78mph isn't bad considering you don't have alot done to it, and most other sport quads don't go any faster than that without a good bit of money dumped into them. 80mph without just gearing it up will take a few bucks. A good bigbore kit may give you the extra grunt you need to properly pull the tall gearing you are already running, that will probably get you over 80mph.

Looks good, I think the brakes and a-arms will work well, you may find the shocks to be a little soft when everything is done, and with 2 people in the kart. The shocks are made for a much smaller machine and one rider at approx. 160lb or so. On the other hand, it seems like the weight will be biased toward the rear, so that may lighten the load up on the front end enough. If it does feel soft when you drive it, you can move the lower shock mount toward the wheel, it will stiffen up the ride a bit. You lose suspension travel, but it will be cheaper than replacing the shocks so... If there are clearance issues, a smaller tire may solve the problem there. The cage looks to be coming along quite nicely, how do you like that Miller Dynasty welder? My friend has a Syncrowave 200, its not a bad machine, but it lacks proper adjustment. It does well on steel or stainless, but alluminum is a real pain, no frequency adjustment.

Sorry nobody has responded to this thread yet, I moved it into the Polaris forum where it is more likely to be seen. As far as your question goes, I don't think you will be seeing 75mph on a Phoenix anytime soon, but there are things you can do to wake it up a bit. Start with the basics, intake, exhaust, and re-jet the carb. I don't imagine that there is a big market for performance parts for your machine, but I'm sure you can find a few things.

You can put a turbo on a two stroke, and it can be very difficult to properly tune them though. You need to have a real good idea of where to start on jetting, you will probably need to run larger carbs to allow for the extra air that the turbo will be pushing. Then you have to figure out how to tie in in to the exhuast. If you want to do it, I would do your homework, you want to make sure you get it right. If you don't have enough fuel to go with all the extra air, that motor will burn up in no time flat.

How did you clean the carb? Did you take it apart completely and clean out the jets, pilot circuit, float bowl vent? The carb needs to be cleaned completely. How old is the gas? If it is old, you may want to drain it and put some fresh stuff in there. You should check the valve lash and do a compression test too. Make sure the air filter is clean.

Please watch the language JP, and good luck getting that thing fixed. If you are still looking for a place to get parts, Bike Bandit, Service Honda, and Babbits online are all good places to get O.E.M. parts. Rocky Mountaing ATV is a good place for aftermarket stuff. Ebay is also a good place to find good deals on parts.

It didn't seal to the air box. It literally just sits on top of the box, I got 2 small zip ties to hold it down. I thought I would fix the sealing problem myself by running some silicone around the edges where the lid contacts the top of the box, and using srews to hold the lid down tight. This worked to create a seal, but the filter material on the lid just got sucked out of the lid and into the airbox from the vaccum. I peeled the silcone off and sent that P.O.S. back to Rocky Mountain. I got no problems getting my refund, they have great customer service, I don't have anything bad to say about RM, just that Pro-Tec lid that I got from them. Worst $90 I have ever spent.

That's a good point Lawny. Using the wrong oil, or low quality oil could be causing problems too, conventional oils, especially cheap ones, have a tendance to leave deposits, these deposits are likely to build up on things like clutch plates and cause slipping. Automotive oil uses friction modifiers that are not good for wet clutch applications, that will also cause slipping. I would start by changing your oil, and while the oil is drained, take the clutch cover off, take the clutch apart and inspect the clutch components for damage, excessive wear, or deposits on the discs and plates. Make sure all the linkage is in proper order too.

Wouldn't hurt to check the shear key on the flywheel either, if it is broken, you will get spark, just not at the right time.

Very possible that the old gaskets are your problem, since the valve seats were not re-ground for the new valves, that could be adding to the problem as well. I would order a whole top end gasket set and double check everything when you tear it back down. New gaskets are pretty much necessary when doing a rebuild.

What about the rest of the stuff I mentioned, did you put the valves in yourself? Did you get a vavle grind when you put the new valves in? If you didn't grind the valve seats, the new valves may not be properly seated. Did you torque everything down properly? Did you check the head to make sure the sealing surface is still flat? There are only so many ways you could be losing compression, you just need to take a really close look at everything to see where it is going. Good luck.

I agree, the steering stabilizer is one of the best things I have done to my LT-R. It used to have a bad problem with spinning the as* end around front if I used too much throttle in sharper turns. The stabilizer helps alot. Helps keep fish tailing under control and makes full speed runs down a less than smooth trail easier to control. I use the Precision Pro stabilizer, worth every penny of the $500 I spent on it. I have been riding my 500R more lately, and I am thinking I need to put one on that too, it just isn't the same riding without one.

Did you torque everything down to spec? Did you put the right size piston and rings in? When the new vavles were put in, did you get new guides or seals, did you get a valve grind? If any of these things is off, or wasn't done or done properly, you could be losing compression because of it. The problem could also be that your cam timing is off. If the valves are open when they should be closed, your motor won't build compression. Also, if you have a decompression mechanism and it wasn't put back together correctly, you could be losing compression because of that. Do you know if your quad has a decompression system? If it does, it is most likely built into one of the cams.