DirtDemon

I don't know much about where to find snorkel kits, but I do know some people build their own. You might try asking a Polaris dealer tech if the snorkel kit from another machine would fit yours. Hopefully someone who knows a little more about Polaris quads will chime in with some better info, until then, good luck.

Thanks for getting things back on track Holeshotr, those fellers have been a little :offtopic:

The woodruff key is under the stator cover, so you are already heading to the right place. It is there to keep the flywheel in the correct spot for proper ignition timing.

Take the line off at the petcock and see if fuel will come through the petcock when you turn the vavle to the on or reserve position. If it will come out of the petcock, but won't come out the other end of the line, then I might try blowing compressed air through the line, or just replacing it. Fuel line is cheap. If it won't come through the petcock, try blowing compressed air through the petcock into the tank with the valve in the on position and again with it in the reserve position. Make sure the cap is on the tank when you do that, and be ready to shut the valve off incase the fuel starts coming out. Also, check the tank for debris floating around in there, if you see stuff in the tank, you will want to drain it and clean it out.

The customer service is pretty good at Rockymountain, I have never had a problem returning an item to them that I was unsatisfied with.

Welcome to Q.C. Dano.

That is the unfortunate nature of electronic components. They may act and test fine one minute, and just stop working completely the next. I all know too well that chasing an electrical problem can be like chasing a ghost. I once had a car that would not charge the battery, it would run, the alternator was putting out the correct voltage, the battery was good. I could jump start it, and it would run until I shut it off, then nothing. Turned out my battery cables were shot. Replaced the cables and everything was fine from then on. BTW, Atvertoo, I have no problem with my apostrophes, they's workin' just fine for me. Maybe it's your keyboard.

That makes sense, alot of tests are not conclusive as to whether the part is good, even if it passes the test, but if you get a bad test you know it's bad. I also suppose if you have voltage at one end of the pickup, but it does not pass through, it is only logical to conclude that the pickup is bad, or the air gap is off (if it is even adjustable). Anyhow, good luck, I hope that solves your problem, a pulsar coil is much less expensive than a CDI.

I agree, could be one of many simple problems. I would definately look into the problem before getting rid of it. It could be cheap or even free to fix. First thing you need to find out is if the battery is dead, and if so what caused it to die. Does the machine have a backup pull starter? If so, will it start using that? That being said, depending on how much it would cost to fix it, you might consider getting rid of it and getting a newer machine, it does sound like the problems are snoballing on you. Sounds like you have more into the quad than what it is worth. Either way, good luck.

I was thinking the same thing, those motors make less than 20hp, and that looks like it will be a pretty big machine. Not only would it be a bit underpowered, but I would suspect that the clutch may not hold up. If it were me, I would throw that motor up on ebay along with all the other parts you aren't going to use and look for an old snomobile motor, something that was meant for running under a heavier load. Just my 2 cents. The build looks good though, it isn't easy bending cages. I don't know what you use to saddle the ends of your pipe, but I find that a hole saw works perfectly.

I merged your two axle threads into one, please try not to post the same thing in multiple forums. I left everything in the Suzuki forum because I think it will get more attention here. The first name that comes to mind when I think of ATV axles is DuraBlue, they have been around forever, Lonestar makes great products as well, you won't find any better than those two IMO. I agree with Stoopidbot about the G-force axle, still of top notch quality, but less costly than the DuraBlue or Lonestar, those are big names and you pay a little extra for their reputation. Personally, I am a bargain shopper, I like to find quality made products without the big name price. If it were me, I would seriously consider the G-force since it is less expensive, and they guarantee their product. However, if you have money to burn, why not go for the best?

I would think that if the direct resistance of the pulsar coil reads within tolerance, the problem would not be with there, but maybe in the CDI, or the wiring in between.

Is the first plug from before the pipe and jetting? Either way, it sounds like you are ok on the jetting based on your description of the plugs. As long as the insulator has a good amount of brown or gray color to it and there is no white left, you should be ok.

I merged all your threads together into the first one you started, this is all pertaining to the same problem, so it all belongs in the same thread. Please don't start a new thread unless the subject is completely different. Having all your questions and everyone's responses together in one thread will help anyone who is trying to help because they will have all the info that has been posted so far in one spot. That being said, I don't think that would be possible, the stator sends power out through the regulator/rectifier to the battery. I power should not be able to run from the battery to the stator through that same circuit since current can't run backward through the rectifier. Unless there is another connection between the battery and the stator I don't see that being possible. Do you have a multimeter? The best thing you can do is start testing all the circuits and switches tied to the ignition system.

Before you put the new battery in, check for continuity between the positive and negative battery terminals. If all the switches are off, there should be none, if there is, that means you have a dead short somewhere and you need to find it before you install the new battery.

Wow, have you considered checking another supplier to see if they have the parts in stock and cancelling the order you already made? 6 months is insane, I would be livid.

My feet get wet, almost every time I go riding, since we usually end up at the river at some point. In the summer, it is kind of nice to have wet feet. But if your feet get wet in the dead of winter, it kind of sucks. I might have to check those out, my old Tech 3's are getting a little worn after 5 years, I will probably be buying new boots by next winter, those might be the ones.

I had a feeling that the flywheel key was gone. Glad to hear you got it fixed for so cheap, sounds like you made out pretty good on that deal.

I agree, if the ignition wire were the problem, you wouln't get the click from the solenoid. I would try all the things that MCURCIO suggested. Also check the fluid levels in the battery, if needed, top off with distilled water and charge the battery before testing stuff. One other thing that could be bad is the battery cables themselves, if they go bad, they will actually act more like a resistor than a conductor. You can still jump start a machine with bad cables, but the battery won't charge since the bad cables suck all the charging current, therefore the battery won't charge. Google "voltage drop test" to find info on how to test for bad cables. Keep in mind, you must know that the starter and battery are in good order before you can get reliable results from this test. It is more likely that the problem lies with one of those two things anyhow. Good luck.

I agree with the never say never thing. When I started building my 250R/CR500 hybrid, I got lots of negative feedback from forums that I was posting on and from people that I knew that apparently know everything, but have never built anything with their own two hands. I did it anyway ofcourse, and am glad I did, it isn't perfect, but it was cheap, and I have yet to see a daily rider type machine that can hang with it, especially when you consider the $ to $ comparison. I have less than $2k invested in this thing, and I can eat $8000 Raptor 700R's for lunch all day long. That being said, it is alot of work to do a motor swap of any kind, especially when you are trying to wedge a 4 cylinder street bike motor into a small quad frame. I would also agree that the Warriors poor handling charactaristics are not going to be favorable to all the power that the Ninja motor is going to put out. But there is a solution to every problem if you are determined and skilled enough to get the job done. If you really thing you can make it work, I say, why not. If you think, even for a second that you don't have the necessary skills, or aren't willing to make the effort to do things right, I would not even consider the idea. If you do decide to do this, I would very much like to see a thread started in the project room so we can all see this beast in the making. This would also give you a platform on which to ask others for ideas if you need. Good luck, whatever you decide to do.

Could be a neutral safety switch or any other switch or fuse, that can interrupt the power supply to the ignition.

I don't know that there will be too many aftermarket CDI boxes for your machine, if any at all. I do know that you can get that same OEM unit from an online retailer for considerably less. Try, these sites and compare prices. ServiceHonda.com, Babbitsonline.com, and Bikebandit.com. All of these should have better prices than the dealer, most around 30% less, but all have better prices than one another on different parts, so it would be beneficial to check all three and maybe a few others that you find. If all the other parts check out, and you know your plug is good, and you have made sure all your switches and wiring is intact and working properly, then I think it would be somewhat safe to conclude that your CDI is the problem. I would not recommend buying a used one, there is usually no guarantee that it will work, and even if it does and first, you never know for how long. New is the only way to go with electrical components IMO. Good luck.

Ya, this really sounds more like a seriously legitimate complaint, not just someone whining that their machine broke. I don't see how that should have happened to such a new machine, I would be furious myself. It seems rather obvious that this was some kind of manufacturer defect, the thing was probably cracked and ready to go when you bought it. Good luck, I hope you can get this resolved without spending too much of your own money.

The first thing that comes to my mind is this, your key switch is not making contact in the "on"position, so as soon as you let the key back from the start position, it dies. Test the continuity of the switch in the on position, and make sure all of the wires are secure and making contact on all ends. I have no diagram, nor do I know where you can find one aside from buying a service manual, but I can tell you that if you use a multi-meter to test continuity and trace the wires paying attention to their color and markings, you should be able to figure out which wire is responsible for what. Also, you can find which wires are supplied with power by simply testing them on the DC voltage setting. If you don't have a multimeter, you can get a decent cheap unit that will serve most of your needs at RadioShack for about $25 or $30.

Glad you found that before the nut just came off, that could have been bad.