DirtDemon

Maybe not, but if he did, I bet nobody gets to close to the net. It would be all half court slapshots.

I myself have always preferred the flail, I think the next creepy serial stalker movie should have a killer running around with a flail. A beautifully brutal weapon of destruction.

Why don't we have a onesie for adults, I want a onesie.

X2, replacing the switch would be the best thing. Until then, I would just keep it on any time the engine is running just to be safe. It is best not to have it on all the time, but it is better to be too cool than too hot.

Do you use a machete, or are you more creative and stalk your victims with a battle axe or a flail?

That is a good point Lawny. There should also be a timing plate on the old stator, that will set the timing at the stock location, the new stator may have come with its own I guess. Either way, make sure you have the timing plate, if there is one, installed correctly.

The only thing that makes sense to me is that you have a dead short in the wiring that powers the diff lock actuator, and it is grounding out the entire electrical system. I would inspect the wiring for damage or signs of tinkering by an idiot. I am moving your thread to the Kazuma forum.

X2, why do you want a new carb?

TRX is the prefix given to all Honda quads. Benton, good luck on the hunt, I think Ajmboy is right, that motor really didn't change at all through the years. But I would do the research to make sure before you go buying a motor. What is wrong with the motor that is in it now, or does it even have one?

If there is a gear position sensor or neutral safetey switch of any kind, that could be your issue. I would not suspect the CDI if it only dies when you put it in gear. Will it show any signs of a problem when it is in neutral? Just because it is always a good idea to stay on top of your valve adjustment, I would check the valve lash too.

No, but I do have a bulging disc in my neck, and may have to have that done in the future. I know a couple of people who have had disc fusion done, there can be alot of loss in your range of motion depending on what type of procedure they use and where it is. I have heard that the screw and plate method will eventually wear out and you eventually have to have the next couple of vertebrae fused to keep things stable. There is another method where they remove the disc and use crushed bone to fill the void where the disc was, this method results in less mobility loss, and should stay stable. There is also the option of having an artificial disc put in, from what I have heard, this is the best way to go.

To check the vavle lash, first set your motor at TDC on the compression stroke. If you can't find the timing mark on the flywheel, then just remove the valve cover on the top of the head then rotate the motor until the intake vavle opens and then closes, stop it before the exhuast valve begins to open. The idea is not to have any pressure on the valve train from the cam lobes. Next, you slide a feeler guage between the top of the vavle stem and the adjuster nut that pushes the valve. I believe the gap should be .006", but I am not sure, you may want to call a dealer tech and see if they will tell you what the clearances are. If they need to be adjusted, there is a jam nut at the top of the rocker arm, right above the vavle that holds the adjuster screw in place. Loosen the jam nut and screw the adjuster up or down until you have reached the specified gap measurement. Then, carefully tighten the jam nut while making sure to hold the adjuster screw still as not to change the gap. I would recommend getting a repair manual, all of this info will be in there, as well as torque specs and other valuable info that you will most likely need at some point.

That is very typical of electrical problems, they can be like chasing down a ghost. I do know that there is some kind of switch on the end of the gear shifting assembly, it is called a "gear shift terminal base assembly" it is some kind of electrical switch that is moved when gears are changed, it does have wires coming out of it. What I do not know, is what exactly it does, or if it is on the outside of the motor, or under the side cover. The fact that your seemed to be dependent on the gear you were in at first lead me to believe that some kind of gearshift sensor could be the root of the problem. Now that it does it in any gear, opens the door up to more possibilities, but I would not forget about the gear shift terminal base assy. You might try shifting back and forth between forward and reverse to see if that will instigate the problem, or maybe cause it to go away. If that has any affect, or if you don't get the stumbling when you rev the motor in neutral, I might start thinking about that base assembly. If it doesn't seem to make any difference, then I would lean more toward a problem with the ignition. Another thing you might check is the coil wire, sometimes the wires inside get corroded or worn where the spark plug boot connects to the wire. You should be able to unscrew the boot from the wire and check the wires inside. If they look damaged in any way, just start snipping off short chunks of insulation 1/8" at a time until you have good clean wires at the end. Did you check the vavle lash, try a new plug or inspect the wiring?

After posting that, I started to think, how could a petroleum based or blended oil possibly have any advantages over a full synthetic, besides being less expensive. I have heard or read many times, that it was better not to use a full synthetic in wet clutch applications because of an increased risk of clutch slippage. I even had a parts person at a dealer tell me that, and as you knoe, they are more likely to push the most expensive stuff they can. After thinking real hard and doing some reading, I have come to the conclusion that those people are wrong. A synthetic oil is no more slippery than petroleum based oils, so it isn't that. Automotive oils or oils designed for a dry clutch, have friction modifiers, that will cause slipping in a wet clutch. I think that the whole myth was started by people who used synthetic oils that were not rated for use with a wet clutch. I think that any oil rated for use in a wet clutch system will work fine for a machine like an LT-160 Quadrunner, however, I think that a full synthetic will be better in any circumstance, especially in high performance applications. No matter what oil you use, however, the most important thing is to keep it clean.

Check the shear key on the flywheel, if the key is sheared and the timing is off just a bit, you get that snap-back on the starter like that. I am not sure exactly what you mean by 1/4 turn of play. Are you saying you turn the crank about 1/4 turn before the valve opens, or you turn 1/4 turn before the cam starts to move. The cam should move immediately when you rotate the crank. If you turn the motor backwards, you may get some slack and the cam won't turn right away. Make sure you are turning the motor in the same direction that the wheels would turn if you were going forward. Turn the motor all the way around the in the correct direction and stop on the TDC mark without turning the motor back the other way. Wait a few, then start turning it again and watch to make sure the camshaft starts turning with the crank, it will turn slower as it only revolves once for every two revolutions of the crank, but it should start turning as soon as the crank does. If your cam does not move right away, you may have a stretched timing chain or a bad timing chain tensioner.

Good to hear, hope is stays that way.

Nice ride Bot, my Dad has one very simiar to that one, it is a good truck.

Thankyou, any luck figuring out what the problem is?

It is a fact that the average temperature goes down as you go up in elevation. That is why it snows in the mountains while it is raining in lowlands at the bottom of the mountains. The average temperature drop when going from 5000ft to 8000ft is about 10 degrees. This will mean more dissolved oxygen in the air, which will help offset the affect of the less dense air at the higher altitude. Your motor will still run richer at a higher altitude, but in the winter, when it is alot colder in the mountains, it isn't as bad because of the significantly cooler temps.

Mechanic in a can, I like that. I am a big fan of seafoam, but too much of a good thing, isn't a good thing.

Sounds like an ignition problem, my guess would be that your CDI is in its way out. The best thing to do would be to test all of the ignition components. If you have a repair manual, there should be some tests that you can perform using a multimeter. Some other things you might want to do is check your valve lash, pull the float bowl off the carb and check for debris, and try a fresh spark plug. Also, take a look at the old plug, what does it look like? Did you ever find out what year that Quadmaster is?

It could be electrical, if it were an ignition problem, a faulty CDI is most likely to cause a problem like that. You could also be dealing with an air leak. That could be in the intake or a bad stator side crank seal. Another though is that the float bowl vent tube could be clogged, the float bowl will still fill up, just not as fast as needed to keep the carb supplied with fuel.

Your bike will run a bit richer at that altitude, if it is jetted properly for 4000 feet, then you should be able to get away without re-jetting. Besides, it will likely be colder up there, so that will help offset richening effect of the higher altitude. If you are jetted for sea level, then you may start to see problems at 8500. If you choose not to re-jet, make sure you carry a spare plug in case you foul yours. Also, something to clean a plug with, you can clean and re-use a wet fouled plug. If you have poor performance issues, you can just open up your airbox, just make sure not to let any water get in there when it is opened up. It is pretty easy to change a main, jet even on the trail, you could just bring some extra jets with you and change to a bigger one if you need to. Also, make sure you have a screwdriver to make adjustments to your pilot screw, you will probably need to do that too.

You could try to re-use the head gasket, I don't recommend it though. If you have the thing apart, you might as well just replace the gasket now to be safe. I know it would save you about $40 to re-use the old one, but the last thing you want is to have to take it apart again. As far as flushing the motor, I would buy enough of the cheapest oil you can find to fill your motor twice, run the motor until it gets warm, then drain the oil, and repeat the process again. Hopefully this will get all the water out of the motor. When you feel confident that your motor is water free, fill it with whatever oil you plan to run in your machine and put a new oil filter in it. I must apologize, I should have suggested that you check the water pump seals, I have seen that happen enough times before, I should have known to tell you that. The white smoke thing sent me my mind on a one way track to the head gasket. The white smoke could have just been the water in the oil pushing past the rings and burning in the cylinder that way. I am just glad you didn't waste money on mechanic labor to find out we had steered you in the wrong direction. Good luck.

I would say that it is a very strong possibility, I would try splicing the wire back together and see if it fixes your problem. Where does that wire lead to?