davefrombc

Banks would most likely offer you a better interest rate on a loan than an ATV dealer would.. Either way, you should also take into consideration how much you would really be paying for the ATV.. $ 8k - 10K plus the interest on top of that ..... Work out what the final price could be .. Depending on the interest and term of the loan , you could conceivably end up paying nearly double the sticker price. My personal choice is to not do it. My recommendation would be to buy a good used machine and if you are a newby to ATV's learn to ride on it. See if you really like the sport and see yourself using it a lot more to justify the expense of a new one. If the answers are yes to both , then if you have kept your machine in good condition you can sell it for most likely nearly the same money you paid for it (sometimes more if you got a great deal to start with) and use it with what you've saved up for a newer machine rather than paid out on interest. Remember , like cars , the value of the machine drops considerably once you have taken possession of it .. If you don't really enjoy the ride or don't see yourself getting deeper into the sport , you are out considerable money if you sell the machine to someone else who would be getting a great bargain on a barely used machine.

From what I read in that post, yes. Back it off to allow the clutch to grab and hold. The screw should not be touching the clutch but should be within a couple of mm from it. I can only repeat what I read there since I do not own a Suzuki.. Hopefully a Suzuki owner will chime in to confirm or deny those instructions.

Here is a copy and paste of a response in another, Suzuki specific, forum. You may have actually loosened the clutch if you screwed the adjuster in rather than out. I hope AJ doesn't mind me using his picture for this because I borrowed it. I can't remember off the top of my head what size bolt that is, I think 17mm, but you remove that bolt and inside you will find a set screw with lock nut, which I think is a 12 or 13mm, Leave your transmission in first gear and go ahead and break the lock nut loose. I would go ahead and use the Phillips screw driver and completely remove the set screw and lock nut. You will not mess anything up doing this. Now after you remove it take the lock nut off of the set screw this will ensure that they both move freely and will make it easier to adjust. Once you have separated them go ahead and put the lock nut back on the set screw just a few threads and reinsert the assembly back into the hole only using your fingers tighten the set screw where you barely feel it touch the plates inside of the clutch. Now while holding the set screw with the screw driver use your fingers and snug the lock nut up. now double check the set screw and make sure it is just barely snug against the plates inside still and loosen it about an eighth of a turn and use a wrench to slightly tighten the lock nut against the set screw, once you are sure that they are somewhat locked together take a socket and snug it up really well to make sure it isn't gonna loosen up on you. Now replace the cover nut and try it out and see if it does the same thing or if it fixed it.

I'm with Ajmboy. From your description, I'd say they seem to be looking at padding their repair bill. Not starting and backfiring sounds much more a timing problem , either valve timing because of a slipped timing chain or an electrical timing problem.. A piston / rings problem would not cause the backfiring. $1000 for a rebore /rebuild?.. Sounds a bit much to me; but I'd rebuild the one you have rather than risk buying another used that may also have a hidden problem. At least with a rebuild , you know you have a good machine.. I'd check around with other quad / bike shops before authorizing that outfit to rebuild your machine though.

The segmented copper ring is called the "commutator". The assembly it is part of is the armature.. The most common reason for a starter not working or working intermittently is just as you described ..caused by fouling on the commutator or a stuck brush not making contact. When a starter doesn't spin , first check to see if there is power at the starter terminal when the starter button is pressed /key turned. If there is , then the most likely scenario is a brush / fouling problem. If there is no power to the starter , then it's time to check the rest of the circuit. Far too many starters have been scrapped when a simple cleaning would have fixed the problem. Occasionally you'll find the commutator badly worn or pitted, but usually the problem is a stuck brush or fouling.. Brushes wear, so they could be worn to the point they do not contact properly , but they are inexpensive and easy to replace.

I did some searching on this and it turns out a lot of people have similar problems with the King Quads from 2008 up to at least 2014.. Consensus is it is a caster problem that there are expensive after market A arms available to fix. Suzuki refuses to admit there is a problem with them. One far less expensive solution suggested is to add a steering stabilizer. Some have and said it helped considerably, but didn't entirely eliminate the over-light steering. I would suggest to all Suzuki owners with the problem to deluge them with complaints. Maybe those who have been injured because of the hairy steering could wake Suzuki up with a lawsuit because it seems to be a pretty common complaint that aftermarket knows about and offers solutions Suzuki should offer themselves.

I can't see a blown head gasket responsible for use of a quart of oil a day. The price was right on the quad though even if the engine was blown.. You might have an easy and relatively inexpensive fix , or you may need to find another engine .. Either way you can't lose on something for free. Tear it down and look.

There's no vacuum line to the petcock.. The line from it to the carb is the fuel line. 30 psi compression is likely one of 3 things ..... Either the valves are not set right and being held open slightly, the rings are shot / cylinder may also be scored or possibly the cam timing is way out so the valves are opening and closing at the wrong points in the cycle.

Samsung S4.. Does everything I want and capable of much more. I don't feel any incentive to get a newer one.

It could be many things .....a loose or corroded connection, broken wire, ignition switch, or a relay in the ignition circuit. Do the search for a bad connection before you start to dig deeper.. It's too often the simplest things that trip us up. Get a good multimeter and an electrical schematic of your quad and search it out.. I once had visions of a big troubleshooting session when my quad wouldn't start ... What it turned out to be was my kill switch .. It has a kill position on both sides of center.. It accidentally got switch on when I checked the headlight switch after adjusting the lamps. Always start with the KISS before going for the trickier solutions.

If you disassembled and reassembled the top end , my guess would be you had the timing set wrong as Ajmboy suggested.. Possibly set it TDC on exhaust instead of compression (180 degrees out) and on reassembly set it right . Glad to hear you got it working ok.

Unless you're going to run any accessories for any amount of time with the motor off I can't see any advantage to installing a larger battery.

I know it may be simplistic, but did you try swapping out the spark plug ?.. One friend beat himself up looking for his no spark problem until another asked him if he tried a new plug.. Sometimes it is the simplest things that trip us up. That is on our first check list ever since when there is no spark.

Coolant in the crankcase sounds like a cracked block or head to me; although if the head and block have water passages between them . it could be a head gasket problem. Rings and valve seals will not let coolant into the crankcase , but a bad head gasket or cracked block or head will let pressure and coolant into the crankcase.

OK.. Sounds like you found the problem. Yes , new problem sounds like you got some junk into jet on the carb. If it has been sitting for a long time I'd suggest taking the fuel tank off and putting some marbles in it Close it up and give it good shaking so the marbles knock all the crud loose in the tank and you can rinse it out and clean it .. You may have to replace the fuel valve also. They generally have a screen on them that may have deteriorated, or may have been damaged if you left it in when giving the marble and shaking treatment. Clean the carb, add some fresh gas to a clean tank, and hopefully you are good to go for some fun riding.

Here is the ehow response to an inquiry on the location of the Moto 4 serial number. http://www.ehow.com/how_7552168_identify-yamaha-model-moto-4.html Once you know the year and model of your quad you can search on a service manual for it . In the meantime , I would check out the ignition switch and also check to see if there is a second relay in the circuit that powers the system. If the ignition switch isn't making proper contact , nothing will work. When you jump the starter solenoid , you are bypassing the ignition switch and main power circuit. Does the motor start and run while you have the starter solenoid bypassed and die as soon as you break the bypass? That would indicate the ignition switch or a main system solenoid if used.

I am not familiar with your quad so I can't do any more than guess on those wires. If you bought the quad new , they are likely wires in the standard harness that would go to optional accessories not mounted on your quad . If you bought it used , then I would guess they went to some accessory(s) a previous owner removed .. Either way , if they are taped up and the quads performance has been normal, then they are nothing to worry about .. You might want to trace them to their other ends to see where they go. If they're open at the other ends of them too you may be able to guess what they may have powered, and would know if they might be useful for you to hook up some future accessories.

It sounds to me like a component in the "brain box" is failing. The "No ECM communication" means for some reason there is no proper signal from the " Electronic Control Module". That's one of the "joys" of new fuel injected equipment ..When something goes wrong you need diagnostic equipment to trace it down..... or you do some expensive guessing and swapping components until you hit the one that is at fault.

The same seller is showing what looks like the same carb, advertised as good for both the 2x4 and 4x4, and at the same price. My guess would be the one shown in your link may have jets optimized for the 2x4 model and possibly would result in a lean burn for the 4x4 which may require a little richer mixture for the extra power demand of 4x4 . http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-For-YAMAHA-BIG-BEAR-350-YFM-350-2x4-4x4-Carb-ATV-1987-1996-YFM350-NEW/361083283109?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D56aec9c352384768921b96d5550b6c93%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D191083519513

Not an old member here in the sense of long time on the forum since I just joined last July, but at 73 I've likely got several chronological years over most of the members. Don't call me old though. I can still do everything I did when I was 18........ It just takes longer, I need more help and I hurt a lot more afterwards. I can even remember where I put things... Well some of the time anyway. Got the new rear axle in my Honda Fourtrax 300 FW. I definitely got all the life out of the old one. The splines on the axle and in the hub and the left side were completely worn out to the point the wheel spun free. With the full time 4x4 it really didn't show up until I got in some slippery stuff on a steep grade and one front wheel didn't have much contact. There is no posi on that front axle , so with it without traction and only one rear wheel driving, I went nowhere .. Had to use the winch to get up the bank, and all was fine for the rest of the ride. There's no hesitation now with both rear wheels driving again.

I'd pull the carb and give it a thorough cleaning. The slide might be sticking , or you may have an air leak or jet partially plugged. Your description sounds like it is running lean to me .

Age is only one factor, and it can be the least to worry about . An ATV only a couple of years old can be in terrible shape if used hard and not maintained while one 30 years old can be in excellent shape. I bought my 1991 Honda Fourtrax 300 4x4 used 4 years ago.. The only repair I have had to do to it is replace the rear axle and hubs last week because the splines wore out on them.. That is a very common problem on the older solid axle quads. The motor still has excellent compression and doesn't burn blue. Starts with a quick press on the start button. The transmission and clutch have also bee problem free. Regular oil and filter change, and some grease go a long way keeping the old ones running like new. Newer quads have more bells and whistles, but if they are loaded with electronics they also have more things to break down. It's a lot easier to rebuild a carb than diagnose and service a fuel injection problem for example. Decide what you want , then go look at what fills your bill.. Look at the condition and see if there are service records . Age really is the least of the worries to consider.

There are 2 screws that affect the idle .. The idle air screw and the throttle stop . You adjust the idle air screw to get the best mixture at idle. . When set right , it will have close to the fastest idle, and not stumble when you open the throttle. The throttle idle stop is just that . It sets the minimum throttle opening. That is the one that will set your idle when the idle mixture is right.

OK.. Glad you found the problem. Maybe the admin here can append this thread to the earlier one so there is continuity on it for the next member with a similar problem.

Here is an old thread on much the same issue. His solution is at the end of it. Click on highlighted area to go to the thread.