DirtDemon
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Everything posted by DirtDemon
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I see, so you checked the valve timing, did you have to adjust it to get it to line up? Or did it just line up? If you had to move the timing chain to get the marks to line up, then the chain has jumped, meaning that either the chain is stretched and needs to be replaced or the tensioner is weak and needs to be replaced. Another thing to note is that there are timing keys on both the cam sprocket and the crankshaft/flywheel. Did you check both of those? If either one is sheared, then your vavle timing will be off.
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polaris 250 trailbler 2 stroke year 2000
DirtDemon replied to bbbbirdman's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
LMFAO, I never noticed that, but you are right, that does look like Sgt. Slaughter, it is actually a picture of his Father-in-law. Hey Admin, is your Father-in-law Sgt. Slaughter? Have you been holding this info from us? In order to stay on topic, I will ask bbbbirdman if he has had any luck figuring out his problem. So what it be birdman, any luck? -
2002 Suzuki Eiger lt400 missing and popping
DirtDemon replied to himey29's topic in Suzuki ATV Forum
I agree, a machine that sits alot is going to be prone to carb problems. Most likely needs a good cleaning. Haven't seen you in a while Mr. ATVmechanic, good to see you are still hangin around. -
2008 Artic Cat 250 Utility clutch bearing went dry
DirtDemon replied to Sarge's topic in Arctic Cat ATV Forum
I see, I work out of Kent and do alot utiltiy work in the surrounding areas, Burien included, we also have a base in Marysville, I don't go up there much except to occasionally transport equipment between bases. -
There is a large internal snap ring just inside the housing, or "green egg" as you called it. You will need to take thie ring out, they can be a pain, but you should be able to get ahold of it and get it out with a couple of flathead screwdrivers. Once the snap ring is out, you will have to pull the internal part of the joint out with the bearing balls. Just be carfull not to drop them, they will be easy enough to put back in. Once you have the shaft and bearing center out of the housing, look on the far end behind the bearing center, there should be a small external circlip holding the bearing center on the shaft, once you get that circlip off the bearing center should slide right off the shaft.
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2008 Artic Cat 250 Utility clutch bearing went dry
DirtDemon replied to Sarge's topic in Arctic Cat ATV Forum
There are only two bearings in the whole clutch assembly, they are all the way behind the driven side of the belt drive, which includes the clutch and the driven belt sheaves. So you will start by removing the clutch and work your way back, sure there is alot of parts to deal with, but looking at the layout, it doesn't look that hard. Just make sure you keep all the parts laying in the order that they came off, so you can remember how they go back. The bearings are in the back of the inner belt sheave, from what I can tell, there is a needle bearing, then a circlip that I suspect holds the ball bearing in place inside of the sheave. I would recommend getting yourself a repair manual, it will have more detailed instructions than I can give, and it will have torque specs that you will need to properly put things back together. So, you are a former Washingtonian? Edgewood, Milton, Fife and Federal Way are all North West of here, where exactly are you from? -
You need to turn that acre of grass into an acre of dirt and mud, so you can ride on it instead of mow it.
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I understand that the pin is not sheared off, but I have no idea what the rest of that means. I have no idea what you mean by, the top flywheel? There is only one flywheel. And what is supposed to be accomplished by turning it. As far as the valves go, I can tell you that tight is bad, your problem could very well be that the intake valve isn't closing all the way. You need to get a repair manual or at least call a dealer tech and see if you can get the valve lash specs. They need to be set to the specified settings. If I were to take a wild stab at what they should be adjusted at, I would say .004 for the intake and .008 for the exhaust. I think that would be a safe place to start, but it would be best to get the exact specs to make sure.
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Bah Humbug, I wish I could be riding, but no, I will be sitting here at home staring at my quads, daydreaming.
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I am going to move this thread into the project room. I must admit, it looks pretty good. You will find that the paint doesn't hold up well, I painted my 500R with Krylon fusion paint for plastic, and it started rubbing and chipping off after the first ride.
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Looks like a cool machine, personally, I would have spent another $300 and gotten the Everlast Power pro 205. It is a more powerfull machine, and has a wider range of adjustability. Also it looks to be a higher quality unit. Not to put down the machine you picked, it looks like a very versatile unit and I would love to own one myself, it is a much nicer machine than what I have. I hope it does well for you.
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First thing I would do is check your valve lash, then do a compression test, also wouldn't hurt to make sure the flywheel key is not sheared off. Good luck.
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polaris 250 trailbler 2 stroke year 2000
DirtDemon replied to bbbbirdman's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
I'm suprised I didn't catch that, sorry boss. -
Is that you? You just don't know how to lose do you, very impressive. I really like the ones where you get the holeshot from the outside and cut everyone off on your way across. The ICE racing series comes through here in December, I found out too late to catch it last year, but I plan on entering a race when they come here this year. I just don't know which quad will do better on the ice, I am leaning toward my CR 500 powered TRX 250R, but my LTR runs pretty hard too.
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After thinking about this, I think that motor has a sight glass over the powervavle, and I don't think that there is one for the tranny oil. I believe the window is there so you can visually check to see if the powervalve is working. It has been a long time since we had ours, so I don't remember exactly. Maybe Scott will see this thread and chime in, he rides an old Quadracer too.
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Sorry, I forgot to post the link. Here it is. http://www.motosport.com/atv/product/PRECISION-SHOCK-AND-VIBE-118-BAR-CLAMP-FOR-STOCK-STEM/?prodId=2687524&
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What do you mean, you checked the timing and it appears before T? If the machine sparks way before TDC, then you probably have a sheared flywheel key. Another thing to check is the vavle lash. BTW, 150psi is pretty strong for a Warrior, you might even have a high comp piston or a slightly shaved head. Make sure you are using premium unleaded fuel.
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polaris 250 trailbler 2 stroke year 2000
DirtDemon replied to bbbbirdman's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
It could be the alot of things. How does the machine run other aside from the idling problem? Has the machine been sitting for a while? If so, I would open the carb up and give it a thorough cleaning. It could have an air leak somewhere, possibly a leaking crank seal, or a leak in the intake area, maybe where the intake boot bolts to the motor. Also, check the air cleaner and try a new spark plug. I would also do a compression test. -
The carbs for all of the Yamaha 80cc ATVs are strikingly similar all the way up to the Raptor 80. All models even use the exact same intake tube that connects the carb to the head. While there are some slight differences in the carbs over the years, they are enough alike to make me thing they could be interchangeable. That does not mean that some adaptations may need to be made though, as they aren't exactly alike, but close. I would recommend checking ebay, you may find a decent used carb that is an exact match, or parts to fix yours.
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You won't get any voltage at the coil wire unless the CDI is making it fire. Typical coil output to the spark plug is like 40,000 volts. I don't think that there is really any voltage coils primary terminal either, unless the CDI is firing. As I understand it, the CDI takes the 12v input and coverts it to around 600v AC using an internal inverter. When the CDI gets the trigger signal from the pickup coil, the internal capacitor discharges the 600v charge to the primary terminal on the coil. The coil turns that 600v into the 40,000 volts needed to jump the spark plug gap with a strong enough spark to ignite the air/fuel mix in the combustion chamber. I would recommend testing the voltage at the coil's primary terminal while someone is turning the motor over for you. You should get a better reading that way. If the voltage is several hundred volts or shows a relatively high, fluctuating reading, then your problem is likely the coil. If the voltage is low and, I would suspect the CDI is the problem, if there is none, or next to none and doesn't fluctuate, I would say the pickup coil is bad. I think the best thing to do though is wait for that manual, because I am generalizing, and your quad may use a slightly different style of ignition. Also, the repair manual will have some directions and specs for some direct resistance tests to test some of your ignition components. One thing I would recommend is inspecting for loose connections, bad/corroded grounds, or wires with worn insulation. Good luck and welcome to the forum.
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Check your valves, they may need adjusting. If they are ok, then try adjusting the pilot screw on the bottom of the carb, that will help richen up the air/fuel mix at idle to 1/4 throttle. Your problem could be that the motor is just getting tired and needs a rebuild, do a compression test.
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Hey Mandy, you should wear a helmet, otherwise, good pic.
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Nice of you to respond, and with solid advise to boot. However, he posted this on July 29th, so "tomorrow" was a month ago. I suspect he has probably replaced the gas cap by now.
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What he said.
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I have heard that these work just as well if not better than the flexbars, and they cost less. The bars more or less float on these clamps. Alot of racers are using them in favor of anti vibe bars or stems. I am also going to be getting a set for myself in the near future.
