Quantcast
Jump to content

DirtDemon

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,473

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    The only thing you can do to lower the ride height by shock adjustment is to back the preload adjustment off.
  2. DirtDemon
    Check the web for online retailers, I am sure they will ship to Canada. Just google Kazuma parts, lots of links will come up.
  3. DirtDemon
    There are belts and clutches, either one could likely be the culprit. There is a cover in the side of the motor with a guard on it, the guard is held on by two bolts. You should be able to see the bottom portion of the belt after you take off the guard. After take off the guard, then the cover behind it, you will see the drive belt assembly and the clutch assembly. I would check there first before looking into the drive box. I would highly recommend buying a repair manual, it will probably have all the info you need to figure out your problem, and it will definately have info needed to properly disassemble and reassemble the machine.
  4. DirtDemon
    I take it you took pics of the bottom of the cylinder because that is where you determined the oil to be leaking from? I don't think any additives are going to be of any help, from the sounds of it, it is leaking pretty fast. You may be able to buy some time by re-torquing the bolts at the base of the cylinder, and popping the valve cover off and re-torquing the nuts on the cylinder studs. You will need the torque specs and sequence for those nuts and bolts and you will likely need a new valve cover gasket. I don't think I would waste my time with that option though because it might not work, it will likely cost you around $20 if you need to replace the gasket and you will probably have to buy it again when you go to fix it properly. If the gasket is just blown out, this will not help and replacement is really your only option. To replace it is as simple as pulling the top end off and replacing the gasket. Since this is not an OHC engine, there is no timing chain to mess with, so it is relatively simple compared to other machines. The old gasket is most likely going to be ruined when you remove the cylinder, so cleaning it off will not be an option, I wouldn't try to re use it even if it did come off in one piece. You will need to replace the head gasket as well and likely the valve cover gasket too. Once again, you will need to have all of the torque specs and sequences to properly re-assemble. If you don't have a repair manual, I would order one. Ebay has decent prices on repair manuals and you can probably find a top end gasket set there too. If it were me, I would just tear the cylinder off and replace that gasket first thing. Good luck.
  5. DirtDemon
    A manual is a must have for anyone who is going to be working on thier own machine. It will not be of much help as far as giving jetting info for modifications, but it will give you hints on how to read your plug. More importantly, if you ever need to do any work on the machine, it has all the specs and tolerances needed to assess your situation and get thing put back together properly.
  6. DirtDemon
    The 400ex arms may fit, the only way to make sure is just measure both and see. The 400ex a-arms measure about 6 inches from the inner sides top and bottom, and about 9 1/8 in to the outer sides on top and 9 1/2 in on the bottom. If they do fit, they will be wider, so it would be best to use the tie rods of the 400 too. If they fit, the shocks will be too soft for the wider arms so you will want to do something about that. I would think that the 400ex shocks would be a bit long, but they may work. I would not bother with a carb upgrade before some other motor mods are done. First thing to do is find yourself a good exhuast, if you need to keep it super cheap, check ebay for some decent used pipes. A high flow intake, and modified airbox lid are cheap and easy. Just remember, with each upgrade, a jetting change is likely going to be needed.
  7. DirtDemon
    Many pipes will come with a new main jet. If the one you get does not, just buy a jet kit or at least the next 5 larger main jet sizes. You just start really rich and work your way down until the machine runs at it's best and you have a nice brown color on your spark plug insulator. Google plug chop and jetting, then do some reading, you will learn alot
  8. DirtDemon
    Good to hear, gives me hope. I am anxiously awaiting the time when I will be able to ride again. Nice pics by the way, I will look forward to seeing your video footage.
  9. DirtDemon
    Thanks, I will add that info to the thread title. Another thought, if you keep having problems and can't find the cause, you could try running a vented cap.
  10. DirtDemon
    Nice, how did the shoulder feel afterward, and how did the quad perform for you?
  11. DirtDemon
    Sounds like you may need to take the carb back apart and re-adjust the float. Or possibly, you have an air leak and are actually running a bit lean.
  12. DirtDemon
    That all really depends on how you ride and in what conditions. I am really hard on my machine, and I typically check my valves after 15-20 hours of riding. You only need to adjust if they are out of spec. Remember, a little loose, not so bad, a little tight is really bad. My quad holds a bit more oil than most, so I can change my oil a little less frequently. Most machines that only hold a quart or so oil in the motor, I would change every 5-10 hours. High performance 4-stroke motors suffer from a high amount of fuel blow-by, which dilutes your oil rather quickly. Good starter mods are a high flow intake and a good exhuast system. Don't forget to re-jet when you mod. If you want to get into the motor, a good set of cams is the easiest thing to do IMO, and will provide decent gains. If you are on a budget, there is a pipe you can get at Rocky Mountain ATV, it is made by a company called Lexx. Under $200, and performs well, I had one, but I had some durability issues with it, a friend of mine got his about the same time and his is still fine. However, if you have the money, the Motoworks pipe is only $85 more, and probably worth the extra cash. If you want a cheap full system, I recently upgraded to a Team Alba full exhuaust, $350 shipped from ebay. I had a few issues getting the thing on, but for the price and the excellent performance, I won't complain.
  13. DirtDemon
    The problem could just as easily be in the battery's connection to the machine, If the battery tests ok, then use a some kind of electrical tester (multimeter or test light) to check along the battery cables and electrical wires to find a voltage loss. It could be a fuse, a shorted wire, or a bad ground connection. If you haven't taken the battery to be tested before you read this, I would check for a bad connection before having the battery tested, a poor connection can sometimes be the cause of a battery's demise. If the battery is bad, and it is because of a poor connection, you don't want to repeat the process.
  14. DirtDemon
    There is a neutral start relay, should be located under the front fender somewhere in some kind of electrical/fuse cluster. As far as I can tell, it is the only relay in the area. There is also a gear position switch that is located on the same side of the motor case as the shifter, it should be right behind it, if it is on the outside of the motor. An electrical tester may come in handy when diagnosing this problem, you use it to tell if the relay is bad, or if you are losing power somewhere else in the curcuit. Good luck.
  15. DirtDemon
    My best advice would be to buy a repair manual. On a newer model like that, your only option may be a factory manual, which are a bit spendy. Other than that look up your model on an online parts fische and you can see an exploded view of the rear suspension and the rear diff itself. That may help in the disassembly and more likely help when you go to put things back together. But without the manual, you will have no torque specs or sequences that are needed to properly re assemble the machine.
  16. DirtDemon
    I can tell you that Can-am makes some of the best 4wd quads on the market IMO. As far as the tank placement, I don't think that Can-am would have engineered a quad that was more likely to roll backward on you, they have some pretty good engineers, if you look at the technology they use on their machines, you can see why I would say that. There are plenty of other great 4x4 quads out there also, all of the big Japanese manufacturers make good products too.
  17. DirtDemon
    Blowing air/fuel back into the airbox is not a problem with the cam, but valve adjustment. They intake valves aren't closing all the way, that is why you are getting the blowback. That is not to say that your cam isn't getting worn, but I would be cautious of what you are told by a dealer tech. They will quote you for everything that could possibly be wrong and more to make sure they get your problem covered, and they still miss stuff. Also, if either of you guys do elect to have a dealer fix your machine, don't buy the parts from them, you can save 30% or more by purchasing OEM parts from an online retailer. Servce Honda and Babbits online have very good prices on OEM parts. They are the exact same parts your dealer gets just without their markup. Did he adjust the valves, or just determine that the cam was rounded? I don't know if it is your friend, or your translation of what he said to you, but there is no such thing as a crank cam, and the cam for that rig runs a tad over $200, the crank, which has no direct influence on the function of your valves, runs about $560. Do you trust that your friend really knows what he is doing? Just a question, not a knock on his abilities. Again, a dealer is going to rape you when it comes to parts, and in most cases, labor costs too. I am shure that there are plenty of reputable machine shops around that will do the work for a much better rate, possibly better quality, and offer cheaper prices on the same OEM or aftermarket parts. Neither of you guys are too far from PA, I would give these guys a call and see what they can do for you, they have some great prices on machine work and quality aftermarket parts for other machines, it wouln't hurt to give them a call and compare thier prices with some other places as well as a dealer. I am sure the dealer will not be the cheapest by a longshot. http://advmachining.com/Services.html
  18. DirtDemon
    The '86 300 starter is different, I can't find parts for a 2000 250, as far as I can tell, Kawasaki did not make the Bayou 250 until 2003, but the starter for it is the same as the starter for a 2000 220.
  19. DirtDemon
    Sounds like a bad battery or poor connection to the battery.
  20. DirtDemon
    Can you see anything that may be bent or loose? If all the linkage is tight and in order, I would mess with the adjustments untill you get it or you figure out that it can't be adjusted. The only thing I can suggest is to make adjustments one thing at a time, don't mess with a buch of adjustments at once, it is harder to pinpoint the promlem that way. If it can't be adjusted with the shift rod adjustments, you may have a problem with the gear selector assembly. Your problem could also be internal, something like a bent shift fork or internal shift shaft. Hopefully someone who knows these machines better will chime in with something, until then, good luck.
  21. DirtDemon
    Possibly the pulsar coil or maybe just a bad connection somewhere. Electrical problems like this are a nightmare, good luck.
  22. DirtDemon
    That is a good question? If you can get it to start with starting fluid, then your issue is a lack of fuel. Did the people at the dealership take the carb apart and look inside? I should have asked you that befere.
  23. DirtDemon
    Just to make sure, how is your air cleaner? I assume the pin you are talking about is the needle, if so, this is not much of a concern to the low rpm operation, that doesn't come into play until about 1/4 throttle, and it will only have an effect if the imperfection is on the lower half of the needle. Anyhow, the pilot circuit controls throttle from idle to about 1/4 throttle, so this is where your problem most likely is. Soaking the carb in carb cleaner is usually not going to be enough to get any varnished fuel out of the small passages in your carb. The best thing to do is take the carb COMPLETELY apart and clean everything out by hand. Use carb cleaner followed by compressed air to blow out any passages that you cannot get into manually. Take the pilot screw completely out and blow through that hole too. Make sure to take out both jets and soak them before blowing compressed air through them. Be careful, they are tiny and if you blow them out of your hand, you may never find them. As far as specs for the fuel screw go, I would strongly recommend getting a repair manual, all that good info is in there as well as stuff you will likely need in the future. But one way to set it is to start at about 2 turns out, then with the engine running turn the idle up a bit and begin to adjust the screw inward untill the engine seems like it is going to stall out then back out a little to keep it alive. Then, begin turning the screw outward in small 1/4 turn increments, wait a few seconds to let your adjustment take affect. Keep turning out to the point where you find the highest, smoothest idle. Then re-adjust your idle setting.
  24. DirtDemon
    If you replaced all that stuff recently, it should be ok as long as it hasn't been running like this for very long. I would still definately check the other side of the crank and make sure there isn't any water in the oil over there. If there is, just change the oil. Water gets past the seals much easier than oil, so hopefully they will still hold oil. Also, if you are having head gasket problems 6 months after a rebuild, you may want to check your head and cylinder deck for warpage. If there is no warpage, perhaps the head bolts were not torqued down properly, make sure you are torquing the bolts in the right sequence and using the proper tightening steps. Or perhaps you did not re-torque the bolts after the first few hours of riding as you should. Point being, the head gasket should not have failed after 6 months, your problem may have just been that the bolts were a bit loose. At any rate good luck, and happy atv hunting.
  25. DirtDemon
    It is the internal part of the centrifugal clutch mechanism. In your case, shoe is mechanism with moving parts (themselves referred to as shoes in most centrifugal clutches) , that swing out when rpm's reach a certain point and engage the clutch.

COMMUNITY SECTIONS

ATV FORUMS

QUADCRAZY MEMBERSHIP

Be a part of best online community of ATV riders and join thousands of people who love ATVs! Share your ATV photos, videos, ATV rides, get help with your ATV and more. Not a member?

SIGN UP TODAY

ADVERTISE WITH US

FOLLOW US ON

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...