DirtDemon
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Everything posted by DirtDemon
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Are you sure that you are using the correct amount of torque to tighten down the bolts? Are you sure you are tightening in the proper sequence? If you have done everything correctly, you may want to check the top of the cylinder to make sure it is flat too. Having to replace the first head gasket on a machine that new is odd to me. Makes me think there is some kind of manufactured flaw.
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1986 kawi bayou 300,gas compression spark,,but wont fire..
DirtDemon replied to ezdasnowman's topic in Kawasaki ATV Forum
Spend the money and get and order a Clymer manual from ebay. It's $25 bucks, well worth the money. NEW CLYMER KAWASAKI BAYOU KLF300 2WD 4WD SERVICE MANUAL: eBay Motors (item 270534579799 end time Aug-18-10 19:25:22 PDT) -
2007 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI missing badly.
DirtDemon replied to FordGuy79's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
Did the problem start immediately after installing the snorkel kit? If so, it probably has something to do with the problem. I would either get an aftermarket fuel controller or take it to a dealer shop and have them adjust the ECU to compensate for the difference in airflow. Fuel injected quads can be very tempermental, I know that one first hand. One of the best things I have done is add a fuel controller. Now when I make changes, I can compensate for them by pushing a couple of buttons. Also, you may not want to rule out he possibility of his gas being contaminated, there could have been some crap in there before hand. Also, check the fuel filter, it could be getting plugged up. -
You bet, but for the record, I did say in there that the first thing I would do is have the battery tested.
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Welcome to the site.
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2008 Polaris Outlaw 525S wont start no spark
DirtDemon replied to taydog1993's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
So did you say that if you put it in gear, the neutral light comes on but goes out when you pull the clutch in? I don't fully understand what you mean about the neutral light, but from what I gather, you may want to look into a possible neutral safety switch issue. There is a gear position sensor on the side of the engine case not too far from the shifter. The reverse cable bracket is bolted on right over it. Check the wiring and connections coming from that sensor. If the neutral light is coming on when you shift out of neutral, then you may want to take the sensor switch out and make sure the pins are in tact. Otherwise, check any and all electrical connections, wires, grounds and such. You may want to use a multimeter to trace power from the battery throught the ignition system to see if voltage is lost somewhere. You may also want to try some direct resistance tests on your ignition components. -
You bet man, keep us posted.
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Welcome aboard.
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First, take the fuel line off the carb and turn the petcock on, if fuel pours out, then tap on the sides of the float bowl, you may just have a stuck float. If that still doesn't work, take the carb off and take it completely apart and clean everything, also check the float adjustment. If no fuel comes out of the fuel line when you pull it of the carb, then your problem is a bad petcock, clogged fuel line, filter or blockage in the tank. If the machine has been sitting for a while, I would definately start with fresh gas and give the inside of the carb a look.
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Just remember that extra couple of feet backthere when you are turning in crowded areas.
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I plan on getting a set of those myself, not so much for the arm pump, but sometimes when you land a jump imperfectly, your wrists take quite a shock, I am hoping the flexx bars will help. Another thing I would highly recommend is a good steering stabilizer. I put a Precision Racing Pro series stabilizer on my LT-R, and not for one second have I regreted spending the $500 on that thing, helps tremendously.
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They will fit on your stock 8in wide wheel, just with a little overhang on the sides they do fit better on a 9 in wide wheel. I ran a set of Razrs on my stock 8 in. rims and they worked just fine. They did wear a little fast, but overall, a good tire. May I also suggest looking at the Razr 2 or some of the ITP Holeshot tires. I run the Holeshot GNCC tire on my LT-R and I love them. They bite like no other tire I have run, and they come in a 20-10-9 size. Got a good price on them at Rockymountain and free shipping on any order over $99.
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Check ebay for the service manual, the factory ones are a bit spendy, but worth it IMO, but another brand such as Clymer sells decent repair manuals for a decent price. As far as your problem goes, it would help to know exactly what TRX 250 you have, the 250R two stroke, or the TRX 250X or 250A both four strokes. Either way there are usually a couple of lines that come out of the carb and just hang open ended. One of them is going to come right off the bottom of the float bowl, that is to prevent the float bowl from aquiring a negative pressure state due to the vacuum created by the intake charge. There is usually an overflow line to let out excess fuel in the event that the float is improperly adjusted or stuck. The overflow tube should come off he left side of the carb. The two stroke carb will not have any vacuum lines, they are only for ventilation and fuel overflow.
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If you have a multi-meter, get it out and start checking for lost power. Start at the battery and trace each circuit back toward the problem area and see where you lose power. Chances are that a primary circuit, responsible for powering all off the things you are having problems with has failed. Could be a fuse, could be a shorted wire, could be a loose or corroded connection or ground. If you don't have a manual, get one, they are a must have IMO.
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If you didn't take the carb all the way apart, it would be best to do so. You want to make sure there is absolutely no gummed fuel or any other debris clogging any passages of any sort. Since it sounds like the machine was pretty well submerged, there is a good chance that there is some foreign debris floating around in there. Spraying carb cleaner in it won't cut it, you need to take it off and COMPLETELY disassemble it. Make sure no passage is over looked. Take the pilot screw all the way out and blow compressed air through the curcuit. You can use compressed air in other spots, like the float bowl vent tube to make sure there are no blockages. You are correct about the pilot adjustment, if there were no problems before, and you never messed with it, then the problem is elsewhere. Most likely inside your carb.
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When the machine starts acting up, pull the plug and see what the spark looks like, you should have a strong consistent blue spark. If the spark is inconsistent or looks weak, I would suspect a CDI problem, but would test all of the ignition components before you start replacing things. If you have a decent repair manual, there will be directions and specs for direct resistance tests that you can perform on some parts with a multi-meter.
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welcome
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This is a double post, user already posted in the Yamaha forum.
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On most machines the setting is between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 turns out. This only affects the air fuel mix on the pilot circuit, which controls throttle positions from idle to about 1/4 throttle.
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I think the best place to start is take the carb off, take it completely apart and clean everything. The pilot mix screw is usually on the bottom of the carb just in front of the float bowl. Also, if you haven't done it already, the gas that was in it when it was submerged needs to be thrown out and clean the fuel tank out. I would also run some water through the fuel lines and petcock. The cable you are talking about is the idle adjustment I think.
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Sounds like a CDI issue, when they start to go, sometimes they only show symptoms after they are warm. Is it excessively hot where you live, when I think of Canada, sweltering heat is not the first thing that comes to mind. If it truly is an overheating issue, first thing to do is make sure that your radiator is not clogged with dirt and mud, make sure that air can flow freely through the radiator. Also, make sure that the cooling fan works. If it doesn't, try hooking it straight to the battery so you can determine whether the fan is broken or it isn't being told to turn on, possibly a sensor or wiring problem. You may want to check for intake air leaks. There is a throttle position sensor on the side of the throttle body, make sure it is plugged in. There is an air tempurature sensor in the airbox, make sure that that is plugged in and clean, also make sure there is not damage to the wires running to it. If the weather is really hot there, you may consider installing an external oil cooler if it doesn't have one already. Running a higher octane fuel will help the engine run slightly cooler. Good luck.
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Rode the couch still nursing the old shoulder, it seems to be healing much better over the last week though. Maybe next weekend I will be able to get out and start catching up on the chores that I have been putting off since I got hurt. BTW, I am allergic to Captain Morgan, too bad because it is my favorite flavor of rum. I can drink 3 or 4 drinks or shots and have a 2 day hangover with perpetual projectile vomiting durring the first day.
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I would guess that your stator or regulator/rectifier is bad or there is a connection problem somewhere, check all electrical plugs and wires for loose fit or damage. It seems like the battery isn't holding a charge either, first thing I would do is have the battery tested. I would also check the voltage coming from the regulator/rectifier to the battery, this will be DC current. You will need to disconnect the wire from the battery when testing it. If it is low or none, then I would check the voltage coming from the stator, this will be AC current, so you will need to set your multimeter to AC voltage. If you don't have a multimeter, I would get one, they aren't too expensive and they are a must for tracking down electrical problems. Testing both, the stator output and regulator/rectifier will need to be done with the engine running. If the stator puts out no power, then that is probably the problem. If the stator does put out power, but you get no voltave from the regulator/rectifier, then the regulator/rectifier is the problem. This is ofcourse assuming that all connections are sound. Connection between to points can be tested with the multimeter too, use the continuity or resistance setting. Resistance should be next to nothing if there is a good connection.
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1988 Yamaha Warrior exhaust blows out of carburetor
DirtDemon replied to travis1995's topic in Yamaha ATV Forum
My best guess is that your valve timing is off. Could be the ignition timing too, but I am leaning more toward valve timing. -
I agree, if it were me, I would either re-build the Tecate, or go with the Honda. Or maybe get the Honda and keep the T-4 to fix up later on. Not only are they more reliable than a Banshee IMO, there is only one cylinder to worry about so maintinence costs are going to be a bit lower. However, if you just want the fastest thing you can buy, a highly modded Banshee is the best bet.
