DirtDemon
-
Posts
2,473 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forum
Gallery
ATV Magazine
Events Calendar
Downloads
Store
Community Map
Everything posted by DirtDemon
-
Tyler250rrocks "Whats a leakdown test?" That is where you seal off the intake and exhaust holes, pump the motor up with about 6lbs of air pressure and see how long it takes to bleed off. Google it, you will find plenty of info out there.
-
Since this is an air cooled machine, and most don't rely on a fan to keep it cool, the air rushing over the motor as the machine moves is what primarily keeps the engine cool. My best guess is that you are running a bit lean, causing the machine to over heat. Or you have an air leak somewhere. I would try jetting a bit richer to start and see what happens. Do you have any uneven or hight idling at times?
-
There are lots of reasons for no spark. The first thing you need to do is check all of your wiring for bad wires or connections. Check all the switches. What you need to determine is if any power is getting to the ignition system at all. There are a few direct resistance tests that you can do using a multimeter, you will probably need to get a repair manual to get all the correct procedures and testing specs for your machine.
-
Moved you into your own thread. Are you sure it is a 1998? I think '99 was the first year for the 250. I could be wrong though. No compression means you need to start by tearing into the motor. If it is a problem with the compression release system, or a broken timing chain, you will find the issue under the valve cover. If you have a stuck or bent valve, you may be able to detect the problem from under the valve cover, but you will want to remove the head to confirm. It will be necessary to fix it anyway. After the head is removed, you will be able to inspect the valves, guides, seats, piston, cylinder bore, any of these things or a combination of, could be your problem. One thing I am quite sure of, is that an electronic problem will not cause you to lose compression. My best guess is that you sucked too much cool water into the intake and bent a valve.
-
2003 Artic Cat 400 4x4 fuel problem?
DirtDemon replied to slideways85's topic in Arctic Cat ATV Forum
First off, replace that flywheel, when that JB weld gives way at 5000+ rpm, you may as well be launching bullets out of your side cover. Just replace the screen filter with the OEM part, no sense in messing with it, the stock part is probably just as cheap. Lastly, the fuel is leaking from the overflow because there is something that is keeping the float pin from sealing off the incoming fuel. This is probably due to some residue in the seat, a bad rubber point on the stopper, some gummed fuel buildup on the sides of the stopper, or the float is just not adjusted properly. Either way, I would open the carb back up and thoroghly clean every little nook and cranny and check that float adjustment. -
RAPTOR 700 or HONDA 450R?????????
DirtDemon replied to mat1994's topic in This vs. That ATV & Off Road Comparisons
This may be too little and too late if you have already picked up that Raptor. But here is my two cents anyways. First off, I agree that $4900 is too much for a used machine in this market. You can find unsold '09's and '08's and even some leftover new '07s if you look hard enough. The deals you can get on these leftover brand new machines are incredible. Here is my opinion ot the two machines you are looking at. The Raptor is going to be the more versitile of the two, it will have a higer top speed, power is smooth and predictable, and they have a ton of torque. The TRX, is lighter, better handling, more agile and has a quicker more race oriented motor. It is more of a high performance/race oriented machine than the Raptor. My personal choice between the 2 would be the TRX, because I am a rider who wants to squeeze every drop of perfomance out of my ride. If you plan to tow or haul any significant weight, then go with the Raptor, it has the torque needed for extra loads. -
I moved this thread into the Honda forum, when you actually start the project, you can start a thread in the project room to document the process. I always recommend Service Honda or Babbits online parts for good prices on O.E.M parts. As far as working on the machine, I know no one who has, nor have I. I do know that some parts may be hard to find. Although, most of these new knockoff m/c's and atvs use old Engines that are based almost entirely off of those old Honda motors, there may be some cross-compatability with parts, who knows.
-
Lmfao, No $h!t.
-
I already looked up the parts for him and the numbers are different, you can even see a slight design difference in the diagrams. Not that it matters, It has been a week, if he was coming back, he probably would have checked on some answers by now.
-
While the affected wheels are off the ground, wiggle the wheel back and forth and look at all of the balljoints on the spindle. You should be able to tell where the movement is coming from if you look closely. It is most likely a wheel bearing issue as was already suggested, but if you have worn balljoints, you will need to fix that asap, if they come loose while you are riding fast bad things can happen.
-
Agreed, my LT-R does the same things when I have it set to rich or when the air filter is dirty. Probably a jetting problem or obstructed airflow.
-
The battery is kept charge by electrical output from the stator, that current is then run through a regulator/rectifier unit that turns the AC current into 12 volt DC current. If the stator is not putting out a charge, then the machine won't run, if the regulator/rectifier is not working properly, it may start, but will likely die when the machine tries to switch to the secondary ignition system. Also, I believe that some machines won't run without a battery, I am not exactly sure why though.
-
A lack of power could be caused by lots of things. I would start by doing a compression test. If the compression is good, then the next thing I would do is a leak down test. If everything seems ok after that, then it is probably just a matter of getting the jetting dialed in, maybe the carb is too big.
-
A wider alxe will definately help you stay flat around corners. Wider front a-arms would help too, but it is best to run aftermarket shocks, or have your stock ones re-valved and re-sprung to compenstate for the leverage difference created by the longer a-arm.
-
Not necessarily, it could just be a bad kill or key switch or a loose wire somewhere. You need to find the point at which the power is lost. Trace the power from the battery to the coil and make sure to hit every point in between. Wherever power is lost lies your problem. There are several tests you can do on some of your ignition components using a multimeter. If you don't have a repair manual, get one, it will tell you how to do these tests and also is full of other important info.
-
1998 Polaris Sportsman 500 problem with override switch
DirtDemon replied to partsman's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
Let me know how it workd out, and good luck to to you. -
1999 Suzuki Quadrunner 500 4WD, misfiring, black smoke
DirtDemon replied to JohnC's topic in Suzuki ATV Forum
Plug boot might not be making good connection with coil wire. Coil could be going bad. There are some direct resistance tests that you can use to test some of the ignition components using a multimeter. If you don't have a service manual, I would get one. It will have the test specs and procedures for your machine. -
1998 Polaris Sportsman 500 problem with override switch
DirtDemon replied to partsman's topic in Polaris ATV Forum
My neighbor was having the same problem with his, it was the ETC adjustment. There are electrical contacts inside the throttle lever housing that are supposed to be open during normal operation. If the throttle cable is not adjusted properly, the contacts close and cause the problem. There are adjustments just off the throttle housing and at the carburetor. Adjust the cable so that the throttle lever has 1/16th to 1/8th inch of freeplay. You can take the cover off of the throttle lever housing so you can make sure there is a slight separation of the switch contacts. -
I should have known that. Especially after you asked "what valves?" I forget that the earlier Polaris quads were 2-strokes. In that case, the top of the cylinder and the combustion dome will give the same indication. It is likely that the cylinder was just a little worn and the piston skirt caught the edge of one of the ports and broke. I would still split the cases and inspect the crank and bearings in the bottom end.
-
I'd sure like to join ya out there, sounds like fun, but I am a good 2500 miles away from there. Maybe Bot will pay for my gas since he is rich and can buy houses for straight cash.
-
The intake and exhuast valves, note the color of the valves and any deposits that may have accumulated on them. Check to see if they are seating properly.
-
I doubt that the Trail Boss has a Nikasil plated cylinder, so I would think it could be bored. I would at least hone it if there is no real damage and the bore isn't worn past the size of the piston. If it were me, I would probably just go up to the next piston size and put a fresh bore on the cylinder, just my 2 cents. You will want to get into the bottom end and make sure there aren't any pieces of that piston floating around in the engine. While you are in there check the crank and any bearings for wear. You will also want to look into possible causes for the breakdown. Check the plug and valves, the condition of these things can be a good indicator of any problems that may have occured.
-
2004 suzuki ltz 400 rear brake problem
DirtDemon replied to Ripcityrider21010's topic in Suzuki ATV Forum
The only difference between DOT 3 and 4 is the wet and dry boiling points. Your problem might be that the parking brake needs to be adjusted out, or the bleeder may be plugged. Have you checked the guide bolts for notching, this will cause the brakes to hang up and possibly get misaligned which could possibly tilt the caliper piston, causing it to hang up. There are many possible causes, but I am sure it is not because you used DOT 3 brake fluid. -
Something is hanging up, it is probably the clutch release mechanism behind the wet clutch hub.
-
A thorough test ride and once over is a must when buying anything used. Also, before you go to check it out, tell the seller that you want it to be cold when you get there. If someone knows there are problems, they may have the machine warmed up for you when you get there, this may temporarily hide some problems. I hope, that the guy makes it right, if he doesn't I would definately give him hell.
