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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. I take it you figured out a way to get it off then. Did you get your problem worked out ok?
  2. You will probably have to take the tank off to get to the plug, and to check the valves for that matter, which is also something that you need to do every so often.
  3. Stick a penny between the gears, it is soft enough to not damage the hardened teeth on the gears. You may have some luck using an impact wrench, but that won't help you when it comes to torqing it down.
  4. The 700 has a different part #, but the 650 has the same one as the 500.
  5. Like that boat, looks like it gets about 5 gallons per mile.
  6. So true, you cannot tell of the true awesome nature of the dunes unless you are there.
  7. A clutch problem could certainly keep the machine from moving. Like the previous poster mentioned, a simple oil change may help that, if that doesn't help, a visual inspection is the next logical step. As far as the bogging when giving it throttle, the pilot screw may help some, but if it doesn't, try moving the clip around on the needle and see what happens if you move it up or down. Also, did you make sure that the main jet was clear.
  8. Check the connection between the plug boot and coil wire. You could also have a failing ignition component, ie. CDI, coil, pickup coil.
  9. My best guess says that you have an injector problem, maybe clogged from the old gas, or it could be broken somewhere and sucking air.
  10. A new switch is pretty cheap, there might be two, but even then, it should only be about $30 for the both of them. You could ground the switch out an effectively bypass it to make sure that it is the problem.
  11. Welcome to the site, hope you like it here.
  12. That sucks man, hopefully the guy you bought it from is decent enough to make it right some how. Good luck.
  13. When you are removing the float bowl, watch for the pin that holds the float in place, they like to fall out sometimes as you are removing the bowl. Although, on some carbs, the pin has a slight interference fit and must be pushed out. Other than that, just don't lose anything and make sure that all passages and jets are clear. Wouldn't be a bad idea to inspect the gaskets and seals and look for anything that looks worn.
  14. They look almost the same, both are 6-ply, I would think that you would do alright by buying the Duros. If it were my decision, I would save some cash by going with the Duro tires.
  15. Did you check the flywheel key yet?
  16. I think you are right about the bent shift fork, I can't see it being anything else now that you have ruled out the linkage. I will change the thread title to the correct year. I will also be moving it to the Polaris forum.
  17. You are welcome and good luck to you.
  18. Maybe the gas in the tank went bad, was it sitting in there for a while?
  19. Something tells me he will be smart enough to use the other hand to pick his nose.
  20. Please post the year, make and model in the thread title, and also please do not post the same thing in different forums. I will be deleting the other one as this is the right spot for your post. The best thing you can do is measure the lenght of the shock from eye to eye, and measure the width and diameter of the eyes and compare to other shocks on other machines. The likelyhood of finding one that fits without modification may be slim and even if it fits, it may not be sprung or valved properly for your machine. Not to say that it isn't possible, its just that swapping shocks can be more difficult than one might think. You can really make just about anything work as long as you have the abilities to make it fit, and the enginuity to engineer things to make it work like it would on the donor machine. You have to make sure the leverage on the shock is the same as it would be on the machine that it came off of. I know this one from experience, I have an old CR 500 powered TRX 250R with KFX 450 shocks on it. I had to completely re fab the upper and lower shock mounts and the lower mounts had to be moved to create the same leverage that the KFX would.
  21. I added the year make and model to the thread title, please be sure to include these things when creating a new thread here in the branded forums. I would get the next few larger pilot and main jets, maybe 3 or 4 of each, and start guessing and checking. Start with the main jet, once you have that dialed in, fine tune it with the needle clip, pilot jet and pilot screw adjustments. One thing at a time is best, so you know what each thing has done.
  22. A sticking float is a somewhat common occurence, tapping on the side of the carb may spring it free, but the most common cause of a sticky float is debris stuck in the needle valve or seat. If tapping on it works, cool, if the problem comes back, I would at least take the float bowl off and take a look inside. If you see any hardened fuel deposits, then I would advise taking the carb COMPLETELY apart and cleaning it thoroughly.
  23. I would try adjusting the shift linkage before tearing into it. Seems like the gear is not fully engaging.
  24. Does this look like the right one, you can buy the parts individually at any dealer or online parts supply. http://www.bikebandit.com/1990-suzuki-motorcycle-lt250sl-carburetor/o/m6381sch241420 You can get the needle valve and seat set a little cheaper at Babbitsonline.com or at Servicehonda.com and Service Honda has a really clear schematic of the carb. Just use the parts search and look up a 1990 LT-250s.
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