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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. I started a new thread for you, it is titled, 2006 Artic Cat 700 won't run, not to be confused with this one.
  2. I think your float is stuck. Try taking the carb apart and cleaning it. Pay special attention to the float stopper and seat. Look for any debris inside the carb, if you find any, clean it out real good and get rid of the gas that is in it.
  3. I would start by getting a new float stopper for an LT-230s or 250s and see if it fits your carb. Then, I would see how it runs the way it is with the proper float stopper, check the plug and tune from there if needed.
  4. If the slide was stuck wide open when that happened, it would not have been idling, it would have been running wide open. It sounds like they had it tuned too lean, or the motor was sucking air from somewhere causing it to run lean. Either way, you should be taking that thing back to that shop and shoving that Warrior up someones as*. If they broke it, they should fix it.
  5. Check the flywheel key, if it sheared off then your spark timing will be off.
  6. I think you should put a small block V-8 in that thing.
  7. That is freakin nasty. Sorry to see your boy got hurt, hope he gets his finger tip back.
  8. I figured as much, most auto tachs are made for 4 or more cylinders, if it weren't for the wasted spark, it would only read 1250 at 5000rpm. Good luck with your search.
  9. I think you will be fine, I have never heard anything about bleeding oil lines except for on 2-stroke sleds and PWC's. Your manual probably recommends priming the oil pump, but that is just to make sure oil is distributed quickly upon startup.
  10. In that case, I think you are on the right track by dealing with the carb. I still find it odd that it works in reverse but not in forward gears.
  11. This is a new topic so I started a new thread. It is hard to make out exactly what you are saying there. Try using a few more words and describe the problem in a little more detail please.
  12. Changed thread title to include make and model.
  13. If you could, please post the year of your machine so it can be added the the thread title. Did the tach not come with instruction? I would think that the wire would be connected to the negative primary terminal on the coil. Since your CDI system runs the coil straight to a chassis ground, there really is no negative primary on your coil. So the tach is probably not compatable with a CDI ignition. It may run off of the wire that runs from the CDI box to the coil, but I won't guarantee that it will work at all and if it did, the reading would be doubled because of the wasted spark. It may also run off of the signal that is generated by the pulse sensor, but again, I am not completely sure of that, but if it did work, you would still have the double reading. In short, I really don't think it will work. You would be better off getting a factory tach off of one of the Baja models, but I would consult a dealer to make sure it would work on your model. If you have the cash for it, this may be of some interest to you. Vapor Kits: ATV at Trail Tech Home
  14. If reverse works fine, then I would think that the engine is not the issue, seems like more of a transmission problem. From what you are describing, it seems like you are trying to start out in too high of a gear. How does the gear shifter work? If the engine were the problem I would say try cleaning the carb. Since it sat for so long, it could be gummed up. Next time you store it, either drain the fuel, or put the Seafoam in before you put it away, it will stabilize the fuel and help to keep it from going bad. Another thing that comes to mind it the clutch, but once again, that seems unlikely since reverse works ok. I would start with a good carb cleaning, and an oil change.
  15. Scott asks a valid question, it may just be the old gas. How well did you clean the carbs? Did you take them completely apart and make sure EVERY passage was clear?
  16. Wow, there were some really nice bikes there, congrats on the win, you definately had some top notch competition there.
  17. Put some wheel spacers on it, that will give you a little more width, and it will increase the leverage that the wheel has on the shock thus making them feel softer. You might also try turning the preload adjustment back all the way. Aftermarket shocks are expensive and you may not be able to find them for that model anyway and swapping shocks from another ride can be more difficult than you might think. Every shock is engineered for its specific application. The placement of the shock on the a-arm between the pivot and the spindle determines how stiff the shock must be, since this placement differs from one machine to another, it isn't as easy as just finding a shock that is the same length and happens to fit.
  18. Quite the opposite, we are running low on lady members, it is nice to see you here.
  19. First thing I would check is the throttle cable adjustment and the throttle stop. The carb slide may not be opening all the way.
  20. Did you do a leak test on the motor? It is very important that there are no air leaks or the motor will not run properly. Hard starting and idle problems are both problems that can occur from a leak. You can try to spray some carb cleaner around the motor while it is running. Since it wont idle it would be easiest with 2 people. Check all over the motor, anywhere there is a gasket, there could be a leak. The best thing to do would be to remove the motor and do an actual leak down test. Plug off the exhuast outlet with an expanding rubber plug like the ones in the attatched pic. Then build an apparatus similar to the one in the picture, you need the part that goes into the intake boot to fit well so the clamp can be tightened around it creating an air tight seal. Pump the motor up to about 6psi, close the valve and watch the guage for about 6 minutes. If you loose more than 1/2 psi per minute, you have a significant leak. Use a spray bottle with soapy water in it to check for leaks, and to make sure you aren't leaking at the exhuast plug or where the pressure tester goes into the intake boot. You can buy leak down test kits, but they can be very expensive, it can be made for $20-$30 with stuff you can pick up at a harware store.
  21. Have you tried adjusting the pilot screw?
  22. That was Scott, but thanks for thinking of me.
  23. That's it, there is probably a small 3 just over and left of the cm, that indicates cubic centimeters. 1 cc = 1 ml. 2400ml is about 2.5 quarts. Look for torn boots on the CV joints, if there are any tears, you may be able to get away with replacing the boot, cleaning the joint and repacking it with fresh grease. Typically, the first sign of a CV joint going, is the clicking noise when turning. If you don't find any tears in the boots, grab the half-shaft and wiggle it around to check for slop in the joints. If there is any, the joint is bad and must be replaced.
  24. Looking good, keep it up, I'm still waiting.
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